Solar Panel Install on rear shell

[Wavery]

I just finished installing our Solar Panels on our Nu2Us '04 2720SL.

This model has the batteries stored in the rear compartment. It makes the panel installation easy. Battery servicing......not so easy...

I didn't get fancy with tilting or swiveling brackets and all that. Simply pop-riveted "L" brackets to the panel then pop-riveted them to the roof using a super adhesive double-sided tape to avoid leaks.

I separated the panels 12" so that caulking that center roof molding wouldn't be an issue.

The electrical wire was easily concealed with a cool snap-together conduit kit that has a self-adhesive backing. It sticks like nothing I've ever seen before.

The wire run was short and tidy. Just drilled a hole up through the floor into the rear compartment.

BTW.......The weight made very little difference in lifting the roof.

[Barb&Tim]

Looks quite professional, nice work!



Tim

[Keith Wire]

Looks nice Wayne. It looks like you just had enough room for the panels when the TM is folded down. I have a couple of questions...

1) Do you worry about being in a hail storm and breaking the panels? Do you take something with you to cover the panels if bad weather approaches?

2) How much wire do you have hanging from the rear top shell when the TM is folded down, and how to you tie it up? Do you have any pictures of that?

3) Did you put your MPPT controller, and your inverter in the same rear compartment as the battery? Do you have any pictures of that?

4) I can't remember from your other post on your solar panel installation, what gauge wire did you use from the panels to the MPPT and what gauge from the MPPT to the battery?

I guess I had more than a couple of questions ... :)

Thanks, Keith

[Wavery]

Looks nice Wayne. It looks like you just had enough room for the panels when the TM is folded down. I have a couple of questions...

1) Do you worry about being in a hail storm and breaking the panels? Do you take something with you to cover the panels if bad weather approaches?

2) How much wire do you have hanging from the rear top shell when the TM is folded down, and how to you tie it up? Do you have any pictures of that?

3) Did you put your MPPT controller, and your inverter in the same rear compartment as the battery? Do you have any pictures of that?

4) I can't remember from your other post on your solar panel installation, what gauge wire did you use from the panels to the MPPT and what gauge from the MPPT to the battery?

I guess I had more than a couple of questions ... :)

Thanks, Keith

1) We live in SoCal so hail isn't an issue. If I lived in an area where hail was an issue, I would cover each panel with an appropriate sized sheet of 1/4" Lexan or 3/8" Plexiglas or a 1/4" piece of plywood that is covered with a layer of F/G for water protection (for the plywood).

2) There is 14' of 10G marine grade wire from the panels to the controller. The wire is inside the plastic conduit shown in this pic:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v333/wkavery/DSC03608.jpg
The conduit runs along the top (and down the side) of the lower shell, just long the seal of the upper shell. When it reaches the rear hinge in the the lower shell, I left a 1' loop for folding down the camper (when the camper is folded, the wire is tight & flat, when open, there is a visible loop). Then I just wire tired the cable to the back side of the rear support arm until the cable disappears under the trailer.
*****note: Those 2 exposed black wires that you see is the factory installation to the radio antenna (that 12" long black piece on the rear of the upper shell).

3) I ran the cable up through the floor in the rear compartment, just behind the battery box. Then through the compartment to the rear wall (next to the door). I mounted my controller on the outside (rear) of the camper (just to the left of the compartment door) so that it can be viewed without opening the door. I drilled a hole through the wall to run the wires. The controller is covered when the rear shell is down and the bed protects it from the rain when opened. All holes are sealed with silicone sealer on both sides to prevent water intrusion and discourage the wires from rubbing on the bare metal.

I haven't purchased a new inverter yet (the old one went with my old camper). When I do, it will probably be mounted inside the compartment, as close to the batteries as possible. I think that I may have the front panel of the inverter protrude through to the inside of the camper for easy access to the switch and outlets. I prefer not to hard-wire the 110V side of the inverter to the campers electrical system.

4) 10G marine grade wire. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10-2-AWG-Tinned-Marine-Boat-Duplex-Wire-Red-Blk-25-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f67cf894QQitemZ30048 8128660QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear Marine grade costs a little more but the wire is "tinned" which makes soldering easier and corrosion a non-issue. This flat jacket 10/2 cable fits in the conduit perfectly.

The conduit made the entire installation seamless and professional looking. It came with all sorts of angled joints and connectors. It is adhesive backed and the adhesive is incredibly strong. One must be sure that it is exactly where he wants it before letting it touch the surface. Once it touches the surface, it's permanent. It's barely visible, even when the trailer is open.
http://www.amazon.com/Wiremold-C210-White-Cordmate-Kit/dp/B00004W3ZQ/ref=pd_cp_hi_1
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v333/wkavery/DSC03610.jpg

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31090YG92KL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

[Keith Wire]

Thanks Wayne,

I really am considering copying your setup. Thanks for the link to the Cordmate II. I have sold the Cordmate I for years and just never realized there was a II.

No need to send me pictures. You have described it in enough detail for me.

One final question... What battery are you using?

Thanks again, Keith

[Bill]

The panels are mounted on the rear roof, very close to the rear edge of the front roof. When you push the rear shell forward, to begin closing down, do the panels rub the bag seals on the front roof at all?

Bill

[Wavery]

The panels are mounted on the rear roof, very close to the rear edge of the front roof. When you push the rear shell forward, to begin closing down, do the panels rub the bag seals on the front roof at all?

Bill
No, They are 2" aft of the front roof. The front roof goes up and forward, no where near the panels.......well.....2".......:p

[Wavery]

Thanks Wayne,

I really am considering copying your setup. Thanks for the link to the Cordmate II. I have sold the Cordmate I for years and just never realized there was a II.

No need to send me pictures. You have described it in enough detail for me.

One final question... What battery are you using?

Thanks again, Keith
I added a few pics to that last post.


At the moment, I have a single group 27 battery that came with the camper. I have 2 new Trojan T105s sitting here, ready to go in. I'm just waiting for my new battery box. I already cut out the floor in the rear compartment. It's amazing how little more footprint the 2, Trojans take than the single group 27.

The only thing I haven't quite worked out is how to get those 2, 63# batteries in the battery box in the rear compartment without killing my back..............ain't campin' fun?????

[Bill]

The front roof goes up and forward, no where near the panelsOK, that's not quite what I asked, but I'll assume the answer is "No".

Bill

[Wavery]

OK, that's not quite what I asked, but I'll assume the answer is "No".

Bill
OK......I had to read that again...............I'll have to watch to see. I don't think so but I didn't watch.......I'll watch for it next time I close up. We're going camping Wed - Monday of next week. I'll let you know...........Good question....:cool:

[Keith Wire]

At the moment, I have a single group 27 battery that came with the camper. I have 2 new Trojan T105s sitting here, ready to go in. I'm just waiting for my new battery box. I already cut out the floor in the rear compartment. It's amazing how little more footprint the 2, Trojans take than the single group 27.

The only thing I haven't quite worked out is how to get those 2, 63# batteries in the battery box in the rear compartment without killing my back..............ain't campin' fun?????

I've been thinking about that too. I have a friend who has an engine hoist, something like this one from Harbor Freight. I think it would make the job a piece of cake...

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_2169.jpg

Keith

[Wavery]

I've been thinking about that too. I have a friend who has an engine hoist, something like this one from Harbor Freight. I think it would make the job a piece of cake...



Keith

Yep......that would do it.......I'm thinking a little lower tech. :p

[scrubjaysnest]

Has anyone considered placing the batteries under the coach in the front slide on the 2720 SL. I called the factory today and could not get a weight limit, the rollers are rated for 250# each according to the factory. Been thinking about a better battery location and since that front storage is about useless thought that would be a good location. easy to get at for battery servicing. wiring it up maybe another issue

[Wavery]

Has anyone considered placing the batteries under the coach in the front slide on the 2720 SL. I called the factory today and could not get a weight limit, the rollers are rated for 250# each according to the factory. Been thinking about a better battery location and since that front storage is about useless thought that would be a good location. easy to get at for battery servicing. wiring it up maybe another issue
It would have a huge effect on your tongue weight.

If you have 2 golf cart batteries @ ~125# in the rear, they subtract ~50-75# from the tongue weight. If you shift the batteries forward, you would add most of the weight of the batteries (~80-100#) plus the 50-75# that you lose when you take them out of the rear cabinet. That would add ~ 130-175# to your tongue weight. That may not be a good idea for a variety of reasons.

It would also make the slide-out much harder to pull out and add wear & tear to the friction points.

As far as the solar system is concerned, having the batteries in the rear cabinet is a definite advantage. It keeps the panels out of the shadow of the A/C unit and makes the wiring run shorter and neater. The short run to the converter is also a bonus. The long run from the TV alternator to the batteries is a totally different issue but I think that the solar may help supplement that (on most days).

[Wavery]

The panels are mounted on the rear roof, very close to the rear edge of the front roof (when closed). When you push the rear shell forward, to begin closing down, do the panels rub the bag seals on the front roof at all?

Bill
OK....... to answer this question correctly now........

When the roofs are up, the solar panels are about 6' back from the rear seal of the front shell. When we close down, the panels are all the way down and forward of the front shell and never even come close..The picture (in post #4) was taken with the shells closed and the panels are 2-3" away at that point.......(that's what generated that thought).

You had me going there for awhile.......:p It was a good question though....it kept me awake for awhile last night.

[scrubjaysnest]

As far as the solar system is concerned, having the batteries in the rear cabinet is a definite advantage. It keeps the panels out of the shadow of the A/C unit and makes the wiring run shorter and neater. The short run to the converter is also a bonus. The long run from the TV alternator to the batteries is a totally different issue but I think that the solar may help supplement that (on most days).

We won't be installing the panels on the roof. Living in Florida the first thing we do is look for a camp site in full shade. The panels will be set up at varing distances from the TM based on sun location. That will mean different gauge wire for different runs to offset I/R losses. Our camping is over 90% boondocking. We don't take a generator because of the noise.

[Bill]

When the roofs are up, the solar panels are about 6' back from the rear seal of the front shell. When we close down, the panels are all the way down and forward of the front shell and never even come close..The picture (in post #4) was taken with the shells closed and the panels are 2-3" away at that point.......(that's what generated that thought).Gotcha! Thank you Wayne. As you deduced, I misinterpreted what I was seeing in the picture.

Bill

[ShrimpBurrito]

The only thing I haven't quite worked out is how to get those 2, 63# batteries in the battery box in the rear compartment without killing my back..............ain't campin' fun?????

The easiest and simplest way I have found to do this is using this handy battery lifting strap, apparently designed specifically for Trojan batteries:

http://www.buggiesunlimited.com/images/products/P0000144.jpg
http://www.buggiesunlimited.com/product.asp?sku=BTA%20UNV%201001

It hooks into the brackets molded into the battery case, and enables you to lift out the batteries with ease. A dealer gave me one when I bought my batteries, and it works fantastic. Works especially well when lowering/raising batteries in/out of a case because the attachment points are on top of the battery compared to some battery carriers that grip the sides.

If you lower the tongue as far as you can, or park the trailer facing uphill, you will have alot more room to get into that cabinet for this purpose.

Dave

[Bill]

I have a battery carrying strap that works on any battery with top terminals. Mine looks like a 16" length of fan belt. On each end is a flat metal plate with a 5/8" (?) hole in it. Drop the plate over the terminals and lift. The plate locks onto the posts. Works well. Should be available at any auto supply place for a few bucks. See here, for example:

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt205.html
http://www.amazon.com/K-D-Tools-Battery-Carrying-Strap/dp/B000CO9NTI
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWARD-Battery-Carrying-Strap-1EFY7

Bill

[ShrimpBurrito]

Bill - Do you think carrying a battery by its terminal posts could stress the connection to the plates? There wouldn't be anything restricting terminal movement other than the plastic case.

Dave

[Wavery]

I have a battery carrier. That's not an issue. The 63# while bending over and working within the confines of the door opening is the issue. 10 Years ago it wouldn't have been a big deal. 10 years and 2 bouts with cancer has taken a lot of strength out of me.

Has anyone ever noticed if when you lift the bed platform, you have access to the that cabinet from the top?

Lowering the batteries down from inside the camper would be a piece of cake.

[ShrimpBurrito]

Wayne - If you stop on by my place, I'd be more than happy to put the batteries into place for you. Shoot me a line if you'd like to do that.

Dave

[Wavery]

Wayne - If you stop on by my place, I'd be more than happy to put the batteries into place for you. Shoot me a line if you'd like to do that.

Dave

I appreciate the offer but if it comes to that, I'll have my son come over and help me with it. It's just sort of demoralizing to have to depend on others to do this stuff.

I have learned to respect my limits though and I know that if I try to muscle those darn things through that door, I will end up flat on my back for weeks.

Tomorrow, we are packing the camper for a 4 day camping trip. While I have the camper open, I will lift the bed platform and see if that rear compartment is accessible from inside the camper. If it is, it's a non-issue.

For this trip, I'm just going with the one 12V battery. It's fairly new and holding 12.7V so it shouldn't be a problem. I think that the solar panels will keep it topped up nicely.

[ShrimpBurrito]

While I have the camper open, I will lift the bed platform and see if that rear compartment is accessible from inside the camper. If it is, it's a non-issue.

I have removed the rear bed, and the rear compartment is not accessible from the top. You have to go through the door. And you're not alone in having problems getting them in there -- I feel like I'm in a wrestling match getting them in there.

Dave

[Wavery]

I have removed the rear bed, and the rear compartment is not accessible from the top. You have to go through the door. And you're not alone in having problems getting them in there -- I feel like I'm in a wrestling match getting them in there.

Dave

Thanks for that response. Now I don't have to lift the platform.

Although, I don't see the harm in cutting a 4" hole in the top of that cabinet (I have a 4" hole saw). It's not like anyone will ever see it or any water would be able to get in there.

I'm just thinking of rigging up a pulley in the top of that cabinet for lifting the batteries.

[Bill]

If you lift the bed, you will see that there is a flat wood panel over the top of the compartment, so you are not supposed to have access to the compartment from inside the TM. However, as I recall, the panel is some kind of thin (1/8"?) plywood, stapled into place, that would be easy to remove and replace. The only complication might be the electrical cutoff switch. Memory says that it might be mounted in the panel, but I could be wrong about that. Worst case, a quick cut with a skillsaw would detach a piece the panel, leaving it and the switch in place.

A bigger problem might be that even with access from the top, the battery is still way off center. You would be reaching across the collapsed bathroom wall to get at it.

Bill

[ShrimpBurrito]

Bill is correct about the thin plywood and the batteries being off center from the inside aisle. I wish I had taken a picture. If you do remove the plywood or cut a hole, you'll have to remove the bed to do it. And with the bed removed, you can stand up back there while outside under the shell. Thus, dropping it in from the outside would be way easier than from inside.

Dave

[Wavery]

Bill is correct about the thin plywood and the batteries being off center from the inside aisle. I wish I had taken a picture. If you do remove the plywood or cut a hole, you'll have to remove the bed to do it. And with the bed removed, you can stand up back there while outside under the shell. Thus, dropping it in from the outside would be way easier than from inside.

Dave

Gotcha........that sounds like a plan and something that I can achieve without killing my back. I can easily set the batteries (one at a time) on the upper ledge, support my upper body with one hand and lower the battery down with the other.

I'm going to open the trailer in a little while. I'll have a look at it. I still haven't received my new battery box :new_cussi but if I get it today, I may be able to install my new batteries before leaving (tomorrow morning) for the weekend.

[OneMoBear]

Hey Wayne,

Santa :new_xmas: has finally decided to bring us a solar panel setup but he has some questions :p

He is thinking about purchasing this http://cgi.ebay.com/SOLAR-PANEL-120-WATT-120W-12-VOLT-PV-Solar-Module-/280601154159?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415521d26f SANTA WILL NOT BE PURCHASING FROM THIS COMPANY BECAUSE OF STUNNINGLY POOR CUSTOMER SERVICE! He'll probably go with the same company you did . . .

Anyway, it seems at one point you said you didn't think a controller is necessary but you did use one on your permanent installation. Can you clarify and perhaps give some advice on which one to get?

I'd like your advice first!

Thanks so much!

Malinda

[rumbleweed]

I use the MORNINGSTAR Prostar Charge Controller - 30 Amp 12 Volt. It provides room for expansion should you want to add more panels in the future. It also has an automatic battery conditioning stage. I got mine at affordable solar for $123.00.

[OneMoBear]

Thanks Bob! I'll check that out.

Malinda

[Wavery]

With a 120W solar panel, the controller may be more necessary. It depends on your battery set-up and how much you enjoy keeping an eye on the voltmeter.

If you have 1, 12v battery, a 7A charge (which would only happen with peak Sun angle) may be a bit much for several hours unless the battery is ~50% discharged.

If you have 2, batteries (either 6v or 12v) the need for a controller is less vital because (essentially) peak charge rate will be ~3.5A per battery and will only occur for a few hours per day with a permanently mounted panel. If the batteries are in good condition, you need only check the voltmeter every few hours to make sure that the battery voltage does not exceed 15V. I would recommend disconnecting if you see 14.8V. Basically, that's all that a controller does anyway.

I have a 160W array and my batteries will top-up around 2:PM on a Sunny day (with normal usage). I would think that your batteries may top-up by the end of the day........all things being equal (I have 2-6V golf-cart batteries).

I actually recommend that people do this (go without a controller) when they 1st start out with solar. It helps the user be more aware of how the panels operate.

Having said all that, if you leave the panel hooked up while the camper is stored outside, a controller is essential.

As for wiring........I have my panels mounted on the rear shell with a short run (~14') to my batteries which are located in the rear of the camper. I use 10G marine grade wire and it is adequate.

Your batteries are located on the front of the trailer. Because of the long run to the batteries, I would recommend using the 8G wire that is available from the solar companies. Although you could get away with 10G, I would not recommend it. If, in the future, you decide to add an additional panel, you will absolutely need the 8G wire. There is no sense in buying and running the wire twice.

As far as controllers go, there are as many selections as you have $. I have this simple 20A PWM controller:
http://cgi.ebay.com/20A-PWM-regulator-controller-solar-panel-12V-24V-/270682410280?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f05edcd28

The MPPT controllers will give you about 10% additional amperage while charging for ~100%+ more money. In my book, that's not a very good return on investment for these small arrays. I would think that the extra $ might be better spent on a larger panel..........but that's just me. If you take that extra $100 (or so) and put it into a larger array, you could go from 100W to ~150W (a 50% increase in output).

[OneMoBear]

First off, congrats on the new baby!

Thanks for the great advice! We also have 2 6v golf cart batteries. Our TM is stored in the garage. We are both quite comfortable with a voltmeter but not terribly reliable to use one :p

You mentioned the long cable run because our batteries are in front. I know about TMs opinion about this but do you think the panel absolutely has to be on the back shell? We were thinking about just laying the panel on the front panel and VERY CAREFULLY :rolleyes: opening it up to see how much the additional weight changes things . . .

We agree about leaving the center seam accessible and are wondering if it would be worth the extra money for shipping to get two 60s instead on one 120w so we could balance the weight and leave the center open.

I'll check out the controllers.

Thanks!

Malinda

[Bill]

Malinda -

The air conditioner is on the front shell, and it makes a big shadow. If the panels are on the front shell, they will be at least partially shaded for several hours per day. Though they will be OK at noon, there will be longer shadows during the near-peak solar hours of, say, 9-11 AM, and 1-3 PM.

If the panels are mounted on the back shell, they will be out of the shadow most of the time.

Bill

[Wavery]

The problem with putting the panel on the front of your trailer is that the AC unit may shade the panel part of the day. There is also the weight factor.

I would recommend mounting it on the rear shell and simply running the extra distance, under the trailer, to the batteries.

A single panel (of the same wattage) may be a better choice. There are fewer connections, thus less to go wrong over time. Also, you leave the option of adding another panel of the same size in the future (if there's room and a rich uncle dies).

[OneMoBear]

Hummmmmmmmmm. The AC is at the very back of the front shell. We were hoping to mount the panel in the front . . .

Malinda

[Wavery]

Hummmmmmmmmm. The AC is at the very back of the front shell. We were hoping to mount the panel in the front . . .

Malinda
Weight may be the determining factor anyway so it may be a mute point.

In reality, the shadow will only effect the panel for an hour or 2 a day and then, only if the Sun rises or sets pretty much in-line with the panel/AC unit. However, the slightest bit of shadow on the panel will have a large impact on the output. When designing a system, maximum output should be a large consideration.

There is very little difference in the amount of work involved, whether you locate the panel on the front or rear. However, the cost of the cable will increase with the distance.

Muddog has the same trailer that you have and he got a really good deal on his 8G wire. You might want to check with him for some tips.

[Wavery]

I just thought of another issue with putting it on the front shell.

It will be exposed to a lot of wind (and all that goes with that) up there while towing.

On the rear shell, the panel is 99% protected from wind resistance, rain water while towing, bugs, sand etc.

I'm not sure that I would want 70MPH wind (including head-wind speed) between my solar panel and the roof. Remember, you should have ~1.5" of air space between the panel and the roof.

Take a look at the pic in post #4 of this thread. You will see that the top of the solar panel is about flush with the top of the upper roof while towing.

[OneMoBear]

Towing is a great point Wayne. We really hadn't thought of that. Our TVs are about the same and you know that the TM would be mostly sheltered by our truck and camper shell but still . . .

We have window covers that we leave on all the time on the rear shell which are either covered when the TM is closed for towing or protected as you describe by the front shell. The covers for the front shell all go inside when we hit the road. We're sold. Rear shell it is.

[Wavery]

Towing is a great point Wayne. We really hadn't thought of that. Our TVs are about the same and you know that the TM would be mostly sheltered by our truck and camper shell but still . . .

We have window covers that we leave on all the time on the rear shell which are either covered when the TM is closed for towing or protected as you describe by the front shell. The covers for the front shell all go inside when we hit the road. We're sold. Rear shell it is.

Just to make yourself feel better about it, take a 40#.........something.....and put it on the front of your front shell and try to lift the shell. I think that it may be a bit over-whelming. I know that our front shell (on the awning side) is tensioned as far as it can go (maybe yours isn't). There is no way that I could have that kind of weight on our front shell.......at least not on the awning side. If we didn't have that stupid TV antenna, we might be able to have it on the other side but I still prefer it on the rear for all the reasons that I mentioned.

[OneMoBear]

I took the TM out of the garage today to install a Xantrex LinkLite battery monitor and took a few pictures of the solar install.

First picture shows where I installed the Solar Controller Remote Display and LinkLite.

Second picture shows where I installed the controller (looking down into the dinette storage area)

Third picture shows the panels on the front shell. Will take another picture closer up when I fold it down later today.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9845&page=2&highlight=muddog

I just ordered a 120 watt that weighs 26.5 lbs . . .

[Wavery]

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9845&page=2&highlight=muddog

I just ordered a 120 watt that weighs 26.5 lbs . . .
I think that's a good choice. 120W should be adequate on all but the cloudiest days.

Where did you order it from?

[OneMoBear]

I think from the same place you got yours. I saved it as a favorite when you purchased yours. I also ordered the same controller you have. I'm gonna be the test pilot for that inverter you posted about from Harbor Freight (price has gone up but still seems ok). The extention cable is on the way too. You guys are expensive. :rolleyes:

Malinda

[MudDog]

As quoted, I mounted my panels on the front shell. Most of the camp sites I frequent seem to be shadier towards the back of the site.


The back of the panels are approximately 4' from the front of the AC - the sun would need to be extremely low in order for the AC to cast any kind of shadow on the panels.

While in-transit, the panels maintain the 4' clearance (unlike the rear shell) and I would think be more likely to get full sun for a longer period of time when the TM is folded down.

It did add weight to the front shell, but a minor torsion bar adjustment brought lift effort back to where it was.

As far as the MPPT controller, it was more expensive, but if it lasts 20 years, getting 10% more out of the available sunlight for less than $1/month seemed reasonable. Sure, I could have added another panel, but then you're adding even more weight to the roof and the over-all trailer weight.


--jim

[OneMoBear]

Most of the campsites we use would also be more shady toward the back . . .

We're going to put this on the back burner until we have our paws on it and can do a little weight lifting. ;)

Thanks so much for all the great insight! You are the best!

Malinda

[OneMoBear]

Here's my dumb question of the day . . .

The inverter and cables should arrive tomorrow, the solar panel the next day, the controller sometime . . .

We'd like to get started before the controller arrives. The battery and solar connections on the controller we get. The "load" seems pretty obvious but will we connect the feed for the TM AND the inverter there? It seems we would want both the TM and the inverter tied in past our cutoff switch. So, we could go from the hot side of the "load" to the feed for the cutoff and then to the TM and inverter from there. Then grab the negative side for the TM at "load" and the inverter at either the battery or on the "load" on the controller. I know I must be driving all the engineers here crazy with my goofy descriptions . . . :new_Eyecr

Also, we are thinking about mounting the inverter on the inside wall under the table. We never drop the table and are thinking that we could use some removable caulk on the joints to keep a spill from running down on it. We also are assuming the lugs will be bare and would prefer to cover them with some kind of protection. Any suggestions will be much appreciated as always!

Malinda

[scrubjaysnest]

The "load" seems pretty obvious but will we connect the feed for the TM AND the inverter there? It seems we would want both the TM and the inverter tied in past our cutoff switch. So, we could go from the hot side of the "load" to the feed for the cutoff and then to the TM and inverter from there. Then grab the negative side for the TM at "load" and the inverter at either the battery or on the "load" on the controller. I know I must be driving all the engineers here crazy with my goofy descriptions . . . :new_Eyecr


Malinda
What you have described will work but may not be the best way.
First:
what is the maximum current the controller "load" will handle? It may not be enough for your inverter + refrig on DC + heater fan + Water pump + recirc pump on the toilet + lights etc.

Your current wiring is most likely battery to the converter, That will be your TM load.

Second:
The inverter wiring needs to as short as possible between the battery and inverter. The inverter is going to use the most "watts" followed by the refer on DC.

IMO you should separate some on these items out.

The little I have looked at the controllers with "load" outputs, the intent is to disconnect "load" from the battery when it drops below some voltage set point.
This is done to allow the solar panels to recharge the battery(ies).
Most people put a battery disconnect switch in to remove all load from the battery. Since you may want to charge the battery with the TM closed from the solar panels I would put the switch between the fuse at the battery and all load. Wire the controller output + at the fuse to disconnect switch connection.

[OneMoBear]

Thanks but oh my . . . my brains are running out my ears :p

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270682420090&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

I'm not really seeing us running the refrigerator on DC . . .

We know the inverter needs to be as close as possible to the battery. One little cable from the battery connections on the controller to the other side of the wall would be really nice. :rolleyes:

Malinda

[scrubjaysnest]

Just looked at the one you ordered. You will need to decide what you want run through here. If you want to run the load from battery or converter or both.

I would suggest this will need drawing out. It will take me a few minutes to work something up.

[OneMoBear]

Awesome! We've been drawing it out too but are convinced that we shouldn't quit our day jobs :p

Malinda

[scrubjaysnest]

Let me start by saying IMO you don't want to do this. That said what you have to do is remove the plus and minus wire from the converter that goes to the load you want the controller to shed. This could be power to the front shell, which is fused on our '11 2720 SL for 20 amps.
The pro:)...if the battery level drops to low, the controller cuts power to the front shell. You would still have lights on the back shell.

The con:(..... you lose all 12 volt power to the front shell.
......you will not have 12 volt to the front shell from the converter.
......additional wiring plus a double pole double throw switch is required
to get 12 volts to the front shell from either the converter or the charge controller.
I think just don't use the load shedding function of the controller.

By the way we will be adding solar to our TM within the next month. Ours will be a variation on Mr Geek.

[Wavery]

The solar panels are nothing but a "Battery Charger".

The wiring for the inverter has NOTHING to do with the solar panels.

It goes like this........

1) 2, 8-10G wires (+ & -) from solar panel to solar controller (solar panel connections). Polarity is critical.....Be sure to get + to + and - to -.

2) 2, 10G wires from solar controller (battery connectors) to battery. (same as above on polarity).

Now your solar system is wired and working. The power source to the camper is not touched. It remains as it currently is (Connected directly to the batteries).

You don't use the "Load" connectors on your solar controller for anything.....just leave them empty. They are only used for direct connections from solar to load for running sprinkler systems etc directly from the solar panel.

Now for the Inverter.

You will find that the inverter has a + and - connector. Run the supplied red cable to the positive connector on your batteries and the black wire to the negative terminal on your batteries (minimum 2G wire @ 6')) Be sure to get a 150A-175A fuse from Autozone for around $5. Put one side of the fuse on the end of the positive cable to the inverter (with a nut & bolt) and the other side goes over the positive battery post. DO NOT HOOK IT UP WITHOUT A FUSE. You are now ready to plug an extension cord into the inverter.

http://www.burnstines.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/250x/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/B/K/BKAMG175.jpg

It is possible to hook your inverter into the 110 system on your camper but I do not advise it. If you INSIST.....I will help you with it but I would encourage you to try it with a 12G extension cord 1st.

[OneMoBear]

Thanks Wayne! Get it but can we just wire the inverter past the existing fuse and cutoff?

Malinda

[Wavery]

Thanks Wayne! Get it but can we just wire the inverter past the existing fuse and cutoff?

Malinda

You can if the wire to the cut-off is at least 2G. You will still need to put the 175A fuse right on the positive battery terminal. Any fuse less than 150A will just blow as soon as you hook a decent load to the inverter. A 900W microwave will draw ~100A at the battery.

What you really need to protect against is a dead short. If you have a dead short, you will have a fire that will be very difficult to extinguish and the fumes from the melting battery cables will be very toxic. All it would take is a screw driver or wrench to accidentally short across the terminals on the inverter or something funky wired wrong in the new inverter. A tool shorting across the terminals can weld itself the the terminals in a split second.

[OneMoBear]

Gotcha. I think we're good with the cable to the cutoff. We'll install that fuse on the positive terminal. One more question . . . we replaced the original fuse like you suggested when we got our new batteries. Should we leave it in place? I want to say, "Of Course!" but I've never put two fuses on the same lead before . . .

Malinda

[Wavery]

Gotcha. I think we're good with the cable to the cutoff. We'll install that fuse on the positive terminal. One more question . . . we replaced the original fuse like you suggested when we got our new batteries. Should we leave it in place? I want to say, "Of Course!" but I've never put two fuses on the same lead before . . .

Malinda
I would suggest running a 2G ground wire from the neg side of the battery to the frame somewhere. I would also suggest getting rid of those wire nuts. I would solder those wires and use heat shrink tubing. If that positive wire comes out of that wire nut and touches the ground terminal on the battery, things will get ugly fast.

Personally, I would just attach the inverter directly to the battery (with a fuse). The inverter does not have any parasitic draw, unless you accidentally leave it turned on. I would suggest only turning on the inverter while it is actually powering a 110V appliance. After using that appliance, turn off the inverter because it does draw amps with the switch in the "ON" position, whether you are using it or not. Most of them have a fan that runs continually while the switch is on.

[OneMoBear]

Wayne,

Thanks! I hear everything you're saying! :) I knew posting the picture was like turning in homework :p

We had an inverter on the Bounder and yes, the fan ran constantly when it was on. I would just really feel more comfortable running the feed through that cutoff switch in case it got left on somehow. Flipping the cutoff switch is pretty much auto pilot by now . . .

Malinda

[scrubjaysnest]

Yes as harveyrv said get rid on the wire nuts.:( There are some real nice butt splices available, not at Lowes or the depot, try an ACE or True value hardware.
Sometimes an auto parts store. Crimp the butt splice to one wire end, solder it. Slide the heat shrink tubing ove the splice and out of the way of heat for now. Crimp the butt splice to the second wire, that was under your wire nut, solder it then slide the heat shrink over your completed splice. Use a heat gun or hair dryer to shrink the tubing. Don't get it so hot you burn it. Start in the center of the butt splice and work to the ends with the heat gun. You will also have to work the heat all the way around to get the tubing to shrink right.

You can mount both fuses to the positive terminal although some people prefer a short buss bar. The buss bar should be available from a marine supply store or again sometimes auto parts stores. If you have some 3/8 or 1/2 copper tubing a buss bar can be made from that by flatting the tubing in a vice or use a hammer. The tubing will need to be long enough to drill three holes.

[OneMoBear]

We were lazy bums with the wire nuts. We were both cable splicers in our careers and know better. We just duplicated what we got from TrailManor :p I later installed business telephone systems and we used car batteries for backup. I still have a fairly big scar below my elbow from when I got thrown across the room because I zigged when I should have zagged during the installation of one of these. I don't think the guys ever let me touch one again. I have great respect for this issue. :p

Malinda

[Wavery]

Wayne,

Thanks! I hear everything you're saying! :) I knew posting the picture was like turning in homework

We had an inverter on the Bounder and yes, the fan ran constantly when it was on. I would just really feel more comfortable running the feed through that cutoff switch in case it got left on somehow. Flipping the cutoff switch is pretty much auto pilot by now . . .

Malinda
Here's the way that I wired the inverter through my shut-off switch on my older 2720:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v333/wkavery/BatteryBox008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v333/wkavery/BatteryBox007.jpg

My inverter is on the left in the 1st pic.

In the 2nd pic, the big red battery cable is coming from the battery. The black battery cable is going to the inverter. The red 10G wire on top of the black battery cable goes to my brakes (I didn't have any blue wire) it has a separate 30A inline ATC fuse. The black wire under that cable goes to the circuit breaker/fuse then to the house.

Note that I used a self-resetting breaker instead of a 30A fuse for the house current. Either one has it's pros & cons.

I have a 65A, 6-port fuse block with separate 30A ATC fuse for my house current, brakes, solar panels and auxiliary power for my air compressor (each with a separate fuse) on my current camper. That way, if I blow a fuse, I pretty much know why.

BTW.....great job on that cover for your 100A shut-off switch.......:p

[scrubjaysnest]

Really nice job!

[rumbleweed]

Yeah!! Blue Orange Green Brown Slate.

[OneMoBear]

Ha! Paired with White Red Black Yellow Violet! Slate, Violet . . . who came up with that???

[OneMoBear]

Our solar panel arrived yesterday and we have been getting our daily workout raising and lowering the shell with it on. There is some difference with it on but nothing we can't live with. I think we have decided to go with the front shell, following MudDog's thought that for us, the front of the TM is much more likely to be in the sun than the rear.

Our current plan is to replace the caulk on the center seam, with really good caulk that hopefully will last longer than we do :p prior to installation of the solar panel. If not, we know how to remove 12 bolts.

Malinda

[Wavery]

Our solar panel arrived yesterday and we have been getting our daily workout raising and lowering the shell with it on. There is some difference with it on but nothing we can't live with. I think we have decided to go with the front shell, following MudDog's thought that for us, the front of the TM is much more likely to be in the sun than the rear.

Our current plan is to replace the caulk on the center seam, with really good caulk that hopefully will last longer than we do :p prior to installation of the solar panel. If not, we know how to remove 12 bolts.

Malinda
If there is a difference in lifting at all, just turn the big fat tension adjusting bolts (clockwise) about 1/2 turn on each side then try it again. Just remember to do it with the roof all the way up.

For the mounting brackets, I would suggest getting some of that, real thick, double sided tape to go between the bracket and the roof. Then dip the business end of the fasteners in your caulking compound before inserting them.

[OneMoBear]

Funny you say that. I was just looking at the Locktite Depend and then noticed that MudDog had used what you are suggesting.

Anyone have any guesses which one I should order? We are going to mount six 5 1/2" by 6" plates.

Malinda

[MudDog]

I think Wayne used double-stick tape along with traditional anchors into the aluminum skin of the roof (with additional caulk for leak prevention).

The rocker feet (http://www.amsolar.com/mountsandtiltbars.html) I used came with 3M VHB tape which is rated to hold the mounts without any additional fasteners or need to put a hole in the roof. It's been in use thru rain/sun/hot/cold for 9 months and shows no sign of loosening.

I think M&MHokie used the same rocker feet....

More info on 3M VHB here (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Industrial/Adhesives/Product/Bonding-Tapes/VHB-Tape)

[OneMoBear]

Dang, I feel bad using two threads for this. Let's stick with this one. I have been copying as much of the brilliant ideas that you and Wayne have tossed out as I can but I bought the parts to mount our solar panel about the time Wayne bought his so I have to make those parts work now. I'm hoping to use the same tape that came with yours.

Malinda

[Wavery]

Dang, I feel bad using two threads for this. Let's stick with this one. I have been copying as much of the brilliant ideas that you and Wayne have tossed out as I can but I bought the parts to mount our solar panel about the time Wayne bought his so I have to make those parts work now. I'm hoping to use the same tape that came with yours.

Malinda

I didn't realize that the base of your mounting brackets were 30 sq" each. My mounting brackets are only 1.5" x 4" each (I made them myself.......cheap :p.

That double sided tape should allow you to lift the entire camper off the ground with 120 sq" of grip......... not that I suggest doing that :p.

[OneMoBear]

Ha! I think we started out copying Rocky Mtn Ray . . .

We are making ours as well. Now we just have to figure out which type of tape . . .

Malinda

[OneMoBear]

If all else fails, call the manufacturer . . .

3M says we want "3M automotive acrylic plus attachment tape" and to go on down to NAPA to get it. :)

Malinda

[MudDog]

If you aren't planning on using tradional fasteners with the tape, I would call Napa and get the specific part numbers they carry and then look up the spec's online to check things like UV resistance, temperature range, dynamic shear, static shear, normal tensile and then compare to the spec's to the VHB tapes to make sure that particular part # is up to the job.

[M&M Hokie]

Just to emphasize MudDog's point, the "3M automotive acrylic plus attachment tape" is not the same as the VHB tape. The applications of the 3MAAPAT shown on the website are clearly vehicle exterior surfaces for things like trim but not appear to be highly loaded. That is not to say that the 3M AAPAT is inadequate, just that further inquiry appears warranted.

NAPA's part number for VHB tape is MMM 56316, their part number for at least one size of 3MAAPAT is MMM 06376

[OneMoBear]

I'm sorry. I don't speak Klingon. ;) You might as well be saying that to my dog (the dumb one!)!

Malinda

[OneMoBear]

M&M,

We were posting at the same time. I'll take your post with me. Thanks!

Malinda

[M&M Hokie]

I'll take your post with me.

Bring money! The VHB looks to be three times the price of the other stuff. Too bad you can't just buy 1 foot of it.

[OneMoBear]

Money is really not the issue. We just want to buy the right thing.

Malinda

[OneMoBear]

So guys, I'm really trying to do my own homework but you may have noticed that I am not an engineer :p

I'm sure the answer is here http://strouse.com/products/StrouseFoamVHBTapes.htm?gclid=CK7h25C_lqYCFYQUKgod 6hdHnQ but seriously, it's like Klingon to me.

I'm thinking the 4941 and there are some great prices here http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=3m+vhb+4941&_sacat=See-All-Categories but I'd just love it if one of you would just say "BUY IT!" or "NO! BUY THIS!"

Thanks in advance!

Malinda

[MudDog]

The fact that it is VHB (very high bond) is good. It should be weather/UV resistant.

I don't know which VHB part number came on my mounts, but found a link to someone else having success with 4941 here (http://www.casitaclub.com/forums/topic/8079-solar-install-with-vhb-tape/page__hl__solar+mount__st__15).

Page 4 and 5 of the 3M data sheet here (http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?6666660Zjcf6lVs6EVs666yacCOrrrrQ-) list all of the gory details and 4941 seems to be on par with *most* of the other VHB tapes and 4941 is suitable for metals.

The 4950 family (that includes 4920, 4929 and 4930) appear to have the highest shear and tensile strength of all of the different offerings...likely because they are thinner (less foam). I can find references to 4950 being used on rv.net

You may want to do more searching on other forums to see how widely used the two different familes are and what the experience has been with each.

[OneMoBear]

Thanks so much!

Malinda

[Wavery]

I've gotta tell ya...........(I wasn't going to say anything)....I, personally, would not rely on adhesive fasteners alone. They may be great, they may work 100% of the time.....I just wouldn't feel comfortable. If I don't feel comfortable, I find a way to resolve that discomfort.......

If it were me, I would put at least 1-2 rivets in the front legs. I'd much rater risk the possibility of a leak than face the panel flying off because the adhesive failed while I was going down the highway at 60MPH with a 20MPH head wind.

[OneMoBear]

I didn't realize that the base of your mounting brackets were 30 sq" each. My mounting brackets are only 1.5" x 4" each (I made them myself.......cheap :p.

That double sided tape should allow you to lift the entire camper off the ground with 120 sq" of grip......... not that I suggest doing that :p.

Who remembers during the Cuban Missile Crisis when President Kennedy decided to respond to the first letter from Kruschev and pretend the second one didn't exist? I think I'll try that :p Although, I totally understand the concern.

MudDog thanks so much for the research! That link was great!

Malinda

[OneMoBear]

We have had ENTIRELY too much time to think about this while we are waiting for parts . . . :p We really need to get this thing glued down!

We are back to planning to mount our solar panel on the rear shell . . . We still think that the front will most likely get more sun but there are so many other things. Wayne made some excellent points about installation on the rear shell and with the TM it is just over the river and through the woods, front or rear shell with the cable. You have to go back to go front and front to go back . . .

The tape is on the way . . . I really hope the final episode airs soon!

Malinda

[Wavery]

Who remembers during the Cuban Missile Crisis when President Kennedy decided to respond to the first letter from Kruschev and pretend the second one didn't exist? I think I'll try that :p Although, I totally understand the concern.

MudDog thanks so much for the research! That link was great!

Malinda

Well......I guess the operative word in the 1st post was "should".
---------------------------------

Malinda,

You remind me too much of ourselves.......I wish that I could put in as much time camping as I do tinkering with this silly trailer.

I'm scared to death that I will run out of things to do....:eek:....then what???:new_all_c

Oh well, it'll all be over soon, when my inverter blows up my trailer and I get to start all over again....:new_popco

[OneMoBear]

My money is on you buddy!

Malinda

[OneMoBear]

Houston, let's hope we don't have lift off! :p Now, if I can just do "no peeky" for a few days :)

It was a bit of a chore to get the garage up past minimum temperature. The Bob Heater helped as well as another 1500w we have.

Wayne, you are right again. The idea of running down the road with stuff taped to the roof is just, well, FREAKY :rolleyes:

Stay tuned and thanks for doing most of the work for us!

Malinda

[Wavery]

The idea of running down the road with stuff taped to the roof is just, well, FREAKY :rolleyes:



Malinda
Ya!!!!! Just look what happens to the Space Shuttle.....:cool:

Every time that thing comes back to Earth the tiles fall off......:eek:

Then again.....we don't often tow at 30,000 miles an hour........:p

I still think that tape will hold........I'm just a little "Old fashion" about mechanical fasteners. It's just a quirk with me.

I used to use 3M5200 for bonding things like stanchions, chain plates etc to the deck of my boat. The devices were also through-bolted to the deck. When it came time to remove them, the bolts would come out easily but it would nearly take dynamite to get that 5200 to let go.

[OneMoBear]

Dang Wayne, do you ever get tired of hearing me tell you that you were right?

I'm still freaking out about driving down the road with the solar panel TAPED ON . . . :eek: I think as much as anything because of being right at the minimum temps at install.

I did a search for "roof" and read through the 20 pages of everything ever talked about here and didn't really find an answer. I only found one post about screwing something into the roof. So here's is my brilliant idea of the day and the big question you are waiting anxiously for I'm sure . . . :p

The edges of the roof seem solid. Does anyone know if they are? We are considering mounting some kind of a ring there with a whatchamacallit - kind of like the cable you would have on a gate diagonally to raise the far end by tightening - with the other end attached to the solar panel frame. One on each side, about 14" long.

I just want to make an appointment with a chiropractor for neck pain everytime I look at it and think of how many times we'll be looking in those rearview mirrors for something we won't be able to see anyway unless things get ugly.

I trust I am clearly open for suggestions.

Malinda

[Wavery]

The edges of the roof seem solid. Does anyone know if they are? We are considering mounting some kind of a ring there with a whatchamacallit - kind of like the cable you would have on a gate diagonally to raise the far end by tightening - with the other end attached to the solar panel frame. One on each side, about 14" long.


Malinda

WELL!!!!! That's clear as mud.....:p Don't have a clew of what you're getting at....:cool:

[OneMoBear]

I get why that is clear as mud :p I guess my real question is "The edges of the roof seem solid. Does anyone know if they are?"

Turnbuckle http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turnbuckle there ya go! One end attached to the frame of the solar panel and the other to some kind of hoop on the edge of the TM roof with some cable filling in the gap.

Malinda

[Wavery]

I get why that is clear as mud :p I guess my real question is "The edges of the roof seem solid. Does anyone know if they are?"

Turnbuckle http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turnbuckle there ya go! One end attached to the frame of the solar panel and the other to some kind of hoop on the edge of the TM roof with some cable filling in the gap.

Malinda
I get you now.............a little over-kill IMO. Not to mention the "Yuk" factor and the leaking factor.

Ya, the edges are 1" square aluminum tubing but.....why? The aluminum skin is plenty strong enough to withstand the stress of anything under 150mph winds. The double sided tape really is sufficient to do the job but my paranoid self (which is obviously less paranoid than your paranoid self) would like to see at least 1 fastener as a back-up. If you don't have faith in pop-rivets, you might try a "Hollow wall anchor"
http://cgi.ebay.com/0-3-16-Grip-Hollow-Wall-Anchor-100pk-/260721171086?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb4315a8e
You can buy these direct from TrailManor. They are used to install the cabinet mounting brackets.

or rubber nutserts (they will give you a better seal)

I also found this, which I just ordered......
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hand-Nuts-Riveter-Rivnut-Thread-Insert-Nutserts-kit-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem43a45ff977QQitemZ29052 0562039QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools

[OneMoBear]

Well shucks, we do have a million dollar umbrella policy anyway :p

I'm really not seeing that big a yuk factor, very low and very short . . . I have ordered a number of those rubber anchors you recommend (they are great by the way) and have used quite a few anchors over the years. Solid is always better IMHO.

Malinda

[Wavery]

Well shucks, we do have a million dollar umbrella policy anyway :p

I'm really not seeing that big a yuk factor, very low and very short . . . I have ordered a number of those rubber anchors you recommend (they are great by the way) and have used quite a few anchors over the years. Solid is always better IMHO.

Malinda

The real issue with the cable and turnbuckle system is, as you tighten the turnbuckle, you will be pulling the edges of the roof toward the center. That roof just isn't designed for that sort of stress.

You might think that you wont be tightening it "that much" but trust me, over time, you will be tightening it continually as it seems to get loose. What will really happen is that the fasteners are getting closer together........just not a good idea. Turnbuckles and cables have their place and are a good system.....just not for this application. The roof is just too flimsy for that. The stresses are enormous.

[OneMoBear]

I personally wanted to toss a rope around the solar panel and air conditioner the first time out but Gene is hesitant to lose the solar panel and the AC at the same time. :p

[OneMoBear]

We weren't planning on this, to say the least, but we're taking the TM to Wyoming on Thursday.

Today we finally wired the solar panel and actually turned the inverter on and are here to talk about it ;)

All is well in the DC world and thanks so much for all the help!

Malinda

[Wavery]

We weren't planning on this, to say the least, but we're taking the TM to Wyoming on Thursday.

Today we finally wired the solar panel and actually turned the inverter on and are here to talk about it ;)

All is well in the DC world and thanks so much for all the help!

Malinda

Colorado to Wyoming.........in JANUARY?????:eek: What are you thinking?

[OneMoBear]

Colorado to Wyoming.........in JANUARY?????:eek: What are you thinking?

With the combination of climate change and La Nina this is like Hawaii! :p

[Wavery]

With the combination of climate change and La Nina this is like Hawaii! :p

I'm just a cold-weather-wuss........:cool:

[OneMoBear]

I hadn't realized we left this thread hanging until it was quoted so I'll update. We broke in our solar panel and tape (tape, for pity sake :p) during that January trip to Wyoming and I'm pretty sure now that if we get caught in a tornado, the TM might end up in Kansas but the tape will have the solar panel firmly attached.

Malinda

[nightowlgk]

Are these (http://www.amazon.com/PBT2P-Battery-Terminal-Positive-Platinum/dp/B0002EXFOW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1) suitable for RV battery connections?

[scrubjaysnest]

Not my preferred way to go but they will work and give you some expansion room.

[Wavery]

I have a battery carrier. That's not an issue. The 63# while bending over and working within the confines of the door opening is the issue. 10 Years ago it wouldn't have been a big deal. 10 years and 2 bouts with cancer has taken a lot of strength out of me.

Has anyone ever noticed if when you lift the bed platform, you have access to the that cabinet from the top?

Lowering the batteries down from inside the camper would be a piece of cake.
And here I am, 12-years-later with the same dilemma and I'm now 75-years old and my back isn't any stronger. I can't believe that I am starting this all over again.....:new_all_c:new_all_c

Does anyone know where I bought this battery box?

[ShrimpBurrito]

Looks like from Allied Battery, which I think is where I got mine (but can verify), but I don’t think they carry it anymore.

What kind of battery are you planning?

Dave

[Wavery]

Looks like from Allied Battery, which I think is where I got mine (but can verify), but I don’t think they carry it anymore.

What kind of battery are you planning?

Dave2- Trojan T105.

You are right. It was From Allied Battery. I just ordered one. Thanks...:D:D

[ShrimpBurrito]

Take a look at the Trojan T-125s. They will fit in that box (they’re just slightly taller than the 105s), but will give you an extra 30 Ah or so…..I still have mine but will soon be putting in lithium (within a few weeks).

Dave