Shower

[YWORRYDOG]

When we use the shower, I turn the water off with the Delta showerhead as I soap up. The Delta showerhead is designed to trickle water; rather then a complete shut off. That is supposed to keep the water temp the same. Unfortunately, it tends to get very cold! This never happened with the past two campers, that had the same kind of showerhead. Any ideas as to why?

[grill-n-go]

Ours always does that (:new_cussi ) factory shower head :). That's why the Mrs. insists that thing wasnt meant to be shut off:new_argue

[hal]

Then, if you have turned it back on and it is like mine, you get a blast of scalding hot water.

By the way, if you wish to improve your shower facilities, my wife and I have developed a hands free shower apparatus. Free for the asking.

Hal

[Ted Lehmann]

Hal - Please send or post details on this, as it would help a good deal. - Ted

[BobRederick]

I wrote to Ed at TM factory about this and he said that is normal behavior. No help from them.

What I find is that turning on any of the hot spiggots results in the water quickly slowing down to a drip. Cold doesn't behave that way. I think the rubber seal changes shape when the hot water hits it and closes up the small opening you made when you turned it on to run slowly. The only solution I know of it to turn it back on. You have to do that with the shower, turn it back on. Repeat that 2 or 3 times and it finally stays on. I think the rubber has finally expanded all it is going to and the water flow rate stays where you put it.

On my last TM shower, I used mostly hot water but ran it very slowly. This way, I can tell if it is turned off and it cools a little in the pipe so I don't get scalded. This conserves water and I only used about 1/2" of water from the tank.

Anyway, it works for me. YMMV.

It doesn't work for DW. I installed one of those bladder systems that prevents the pump from running so often, but because of this flow rate characteristic, she turns it on fast and the pump runs until she turns it back off. I sit and grimmace.

If anyone knows about a better faucet system for the camper, I would be interested in knowing about the upgrade.

Bob

[hal]

Ted, it may take one or two days before I can send you the info on the hands free shower. I am presently upgrading my OS. In the process, I need to transfer this, etc. to my computer.

Hal

[radiojon]

I'd like to take a look at that too, Hal. Please send along the details!

THANKS!

- Mark

[BrigCA61]

I just found what you are looking for, Hal posted today over here...

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3223

TO HAL:

Hal, this is GREAT!! Do you produce and distrubute this product yourself? You have done a great job with the brochure too!!! Seems like a custom product just for the Trailmanor Owner!!! Maybe you can get TrailManor or the Dealers to buy your product!! Can you tell me how much it is and how to order it?

Thank you,
Brigitte

[hal]

Wow~blush blush. You are so complimentary. Yes it is designed for the TM, but most likely it can be easily adapted for other type rvs. The soap dispenser comes with four suction cups that may make it attachable to some rv shower walls. The idea for this came from my wife and my need for better utilization of the shower in the TM. I understand that so many Manorites found the shower in their TM to be cumbersome and some use it only for storage.

Why don't I produce this and make it available to others? First of all, it is very easy to construct. (on a scale of 1-10, it is for most people a "2"). Also if I were to put it all together it probably would cost much more. (parts, labor, postage, etc) Doing it yourself it should cost you about $25-30.00. As it is It may take you longer to shop for the parts than it takes to assemble it. I do recommend for better fit, that the reommended door hangers be used.
The soap dispensers and over the door hangers should be available at WalMart, Camping World, or maybe big box hardware stores. The shower holder are frequently available at Camping World or other RV supply stores.

This device does work well. There is nothing like taking a shower in the comfort of your own TM an when finished drying off, you can almost be ready for bed, or a relaxing, refreshing moment to savor the day in your own privacy. No more tripping down a rock strewn path to the public showers, only to return to you TM with your feet covered in dust.

I do hope that many of you will take advantage of this device. Enjoy.

Hal

[Bill & Lisa]

I used a Delta Wall Mount for hand held showers part #75004 I found a my local home center store and a Dispenser Classic shower caddy (4 bottle size). The shower mount has a glue base so it's easy to attach. The slope of the caddy allows flat mounting of the wall mount, so no sculpting is necessary. A little epoxy, over the door mounts cut as you direct and the unit was done in 20 minutes. :p

Well, after a test, I had to use a few screws in the back of the unit to hold the door mounts on.

I took out 38 inches from the bottom twelve inches of the shower curtain (in height) in pleats and overlapped the back about an inch. The hem is about 1 1/2 inches deep. As you can see from the pics below, I hung my 64 inch long tapered curtain with old fashioned wire hangers except for on the step/seat end. I hung this end on the existing hooks to adjust the height, but it was necessary to open the wire hangers a bit to fit the gromets of the shower curtain.

To keep the bottom edge from pulling in during a shower, I used a 70 inch long piece of stainless steel cable inserted in the hem and bent it to shape.

I plan to cut an additional button hole for the shower hose to snake through and add a piece of velcro about half way up the curtain--much like Hal describes. However, the additional anchor on the wall does not work due to the cable.

[Bill & Lisa]

After reading Hal's wonderful shower information, I decided to give it a shot. The only problem was that I hadn't taken delivery of my 3023 yet. After getting dimensions from other wonderfully helpful TM owners, I can share my tailoring information.

I've made some modifications to Hal's model, but most of the measurements will work with his directions. Exceptions are: since the cabling holds the curtain out and away from itself, it is not necessary to use velcro to fasten the curtain to the TM wall. You can omit the steps marked with * if you desire not to use cableing.

Notes: Use stabilizer for completion of buttonholes. The fabric is a woven and will move during sewing. FYI-2006 models come with cloth "hotel quality" shower curtains!

Cut curtain to 66 inches from the top edge.
Overlap curtains 1 inch and sew down each side. This is the back center.
Hem length: 1 1/2 inches with extra 1/2 inch "turn in" to make a gussett. Don't sew the gusset closed or enclose the cableing. It is necessary to remove the cableing for laundering the curtain.

The "darts" should be 8-12 inches deep. and placed apx 19 inches each side of center back and 21 inches from open edges of front (to allow for an overlap at the front of the curtain).

Front darts should be about 7 inches wide, back darts 2 inches wide, to take out a total of 36 inches of fullness from the bottom. I sewed mine with a six inch long seam then tailored the dart out to length. (Imagine a child's drawing of an old schoolhouse--fold it in half top to bottom and you have the sewing line.)

Cut away the extra fabric and finish seams to prevent raveling.

Purchase 2 sets of wire shower hooks and *70 inches of STAINLESS STEEL cableing. *Wrap the cut ends of the cable with duct tape.

*Run the cable through the hem of the curtain and center.

Hang the curtain with the curtain hooks, EXCEPT for the few on the step end of the tub. Hang theses by springing the existing hooks wide enough to accept the grommets of the new curtain (if using one with grommets).

*Bend the cabling to fit the shape of the tub.

Mark placement of the faucet handles (and shower caddy if necessary). Mark for placement of a 2 inch long piece of velcro to keep the curtain closed during use. Take down the curtain.

Make a 4 inch buttonhole for each of the handles and two 2 inch buttonholes for the shower caddy hanging mechanism. Sew in the velcro along one length of the existing side hems, the other about 3 inches in from the edge.

*You may wish to make an additional 1 1/2 inch buttonhole apx 3 inches below and centered between the handle holes for the hand-held shower hose. Due to the inflexibility of the cableing, the shower head should be removed and the hose passed through the curtain, then re-attach the shower head for hanging.

I hope these directions help those who need the measurements.

[B_and_D]

I was wondering how you put the wire shower hooks onto your track sliding thingeys...do your track sliding hooks like like mine, or is there something new and better?

[Bill & Lisa]

I have magnified the rings from the earlier photo as I am the techno geek. They are definately not the same rings. It "looks" like a simple common curtain hanger (upside down from normal useage) that is threaded through the track part. I will get DW to edit post with the finer details once she is up and about. Bill

[Bill & Lisa]

I was wondering how you put the wire shower hooks onto your track sliding thingeys...do your track sliding hooks like like mine, or is there something new and better?
Yes, D, they look just like yours. I put the wire hangers in the loop between the nylon wheels that the original hangers are in. I did not remove the factory hangers as I did not know which ones I would need to use to shorten the curtain on the step side.

I am considering using the type you used for a "valance" to the curtain. I always like a pretty bathroom!