Trailer Secure Locking Options

[MissingTheNW2001]

Hi Everyone:

New to the TM family and I have several questions:

Wondering what folks who store their units outside use to secure them? I'm considering storing my unit at an storage building center which also offers outside RV storage. (there are no inside units availalbe close by at ths time). Eventually my plan is to have enough garage storage at home to accomodate my TM.

The lot is secured by a fence and other RV's and boats are stored there. Management tells me they have never had an issue, but then again I don't want to be the first. While the lot has secutrity on site, its not fool proof and anyone with the code can gain access to the lot and could potentially steal the trailer.

Just wondering what folks in a similar situation use for securing the trailer. Saw a device called the 2" Gorilla guard coupler" and wondering if that's a good option??

Also, what do folks use to secure the hitch to the receiver (locking dead bolt??)

Finally, I've read the threads on the covers and I will be taking the advice and purchasing one.


Thanks,

Jeff[/FONT]

[PopBeavers]

I keep my TM in the garage, but if I wanted to prevent someone from driving off with it it sure would be tempting to remove the entire swing away tongue.

In camp I never worry about someone stealing the TM.

As for the hitch itself, I take it out when it is not in use, including in camp. If it were to be stolen it would be annoying to find another at the last minute so I could go home. However, it would be a fun excuse to tell the boss.

I never leave my McKesh towing mirrors on at camp either. Mainly because I keep running into them.

Having said all that, guess where I store the hitch (actually it is only a tow bar with tow ball) and the mirrors? On the ground under the TM. In two years they have not been stolen from camp yet.

I sometimes think about storing the mirrors and tow bar in the rear compartment, but then I think I will probably close down the TM and forget them. So then I would need to pop it open to get them out.

What check list?

[B_and_D]

We have a locking hitch pin and a gorilla lock. We also lock the hitch to the coupler with a long-shanked lock when we travel. Camping World or a well stocked RV parts store should have these.

We have too many keys.

[rtcassel]

http://www.trailerlock.com/

[Leslie & Nick]

We have a 2619 with the swing-away hitch. As Pop Beavers mentioned, for long term storage, I pull the two pins and remove the hitch entireley. It only takes a few minutes and would make it quite a bit more difficult for someone to steal the trailer. I also use small padlocks to lock the hold down devices at each shell corner - not a great deterrent, but prevents the casual passer by from trying to pop open the shells (if they could figure it out the method in the first place). I also use a padlock with a coated steel cable to secure the propane tanks to the frame.

I guess if the bad guys want a trailer bad enough, and had enough time, they'd figure out a way to take what they want. I do whatever I can to make if more difficult though! :)

Nick

[Freedom]

We use this lock on the coupler: http://www.etrailer.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=E&Product_Code=379DAT&Category_Code=CL
We use these locking pins on the coupler and draw-bar: http://www.etrailer.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=E&Product_Code=7685&Category_Code=CL
In a campground we put the mirrors, spring-bars and draw-bar on the back bumper of the TM and have never had a problem. I leave the locking pins in place when we're not hooked up, so if somebody really wanted the draw-bar they would have to remove the locking pin - probably not a big deal, but maybe a deterrent.

p.s. We got the locks at Wal-Mart for a lot less than the site above asks for them.

[countrygirl]

We use this lock on the coupler: http://www.etrailer.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=E&Product_Code=379DAT&Category_Code=CL
We use these locking pins on the coupler and draw-bar: http://www.etrailer.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=E&Product_Code=7685&Category_Code=CL
In a campground we put the mirrors, spring-bars and draw-bar on the back bumper of the TM and have never had a problem. I leave the locking pins in place when we're not hooked up, so if somebody really wanted the draw-bar they would have to remove the locking pin - probably not a big deal, but maybe a deterrent.

p.s. We got the locks at Wal-Mart for a lot less than the site above asks for them.


I like that lock!

[Freedom]

As somebody (Bill I think) said on a different thread - Coupler locks give a false sense of security. I'm sure the Master lock would yield to a couple of well placed hits with a sledge hammer, but thieves don't like loud noises. There's no doubt that the locks are not infallible, but I think they're better than nothing. I've got them so I'll continue to use them. Besides -I've always heard that locks only keep out the honest people!

[lnussbau]

We use this lock on our coupler: http://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-72783-Universal-Coupler/dp/B0008FUH46

[Harry Womack]

Don't waste your money on the Master tongue lock. When my boat was stolen, they used a cordless drill on the piece that rotates to block the wrench hole. It is made of zinc.

[jellis]

After having our TM stolen (details under a separate heading), I am a firm believer in the "boot" type device. Unbelievably, our trailer was recovered. However, it was trashed and we have since bought a new one. One thing I learned was that almost any tongue lock or chain can be easily broken by drilling and/or freezing. Crooks apparently carry aerosol cans of various chemicals (freon, for instance) that will freeze metal pretty quickly, making it brittle and subject to breaking with a heavy hammer blow. That's what happened to ours.

I'm just as convinced that the boot can be overcome too, but at least it helps your case with police and your insurance company to check "yes" when it asks if the trailer was equipped with any kind of anti-theft device. Photos of it in place are also helpful, should you experience a loss.

The good news is that the insurance company (State Farm in this instance) was pretty good to work with. Also, we got a number of improvements in going to the new model. I have a list of changes between 2006 and 2007 models if anyone is interested.

[MissingTheNW2001]

Thanks everyone foryour insight and suggestions. You guys are great!

I've taken your advice and purchased locks but will also be removing the swing away tongue for longer storage periods. Jeff

[grakin]

I'm still waiting on delivery of my 2619 to see what I can do with it - I'm thinking a good chain and good lock.

Good chain: Hardened steel, but not hardened all the way through. Hardened steel will shatter with a good blow, which is why you want the center of the chain to be non-hardened. But you want hardened on the outside because that resists (doesn't stop) cutting.

Good lock: Look at an actual locksmith or lock shop. Don't go to Wal-Mart. I'd recommend Medeco. I used to do security work for the government, where I was in charge of protecting a building with sensitive (don't worry, not top secret!) stuff inside. Part of that meant I was always trying to figure out how someone could get into my building. So, I got a set of lock picks and taught myself how to pick locks - within 10 minutes I was able to open Master Lock padlocks (once you figure it out, it takes about 10 seconds). I'm pretty sure however, even if I gave myself months to practice, that the Medeco is beyond my skill. Be prepared for a surprise when you see the cost though ($75+ for a padlock). Oh, don't lose the key because then you're only choice is to cut something - and that's not going to be easy (sure, a really decent locksmith can pick it - good luck finding one).

I'm also parking it under a motion-activated security light, which depending on your pessimism either will deter the theft or give the thief the light he needs to steel it. :)

Fortunately I'm in a rather low-crime area, so I'm not terribly concerned, but it'll still be worth spending a couple hundred to lock it up.

My goal is to have the thing make enough racket while it's being stolen to deter a thief.