Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
I'm glad you are making progress. Let me amplify two thoughts already on this thread.
First, I'm sure you realize that there is a switch for the fan, inside the TM, on the little control panel on the kitchen sink apron. The switch must be turned on (there is a red pilot light) for the fan to go. And if the fan and the white slinky are installed correctly, they will lower the air pressure in the top of the refrig compartment a bit, which will suck air out of the TM living spaces, around the edges of the refrig. In this condition, fumes cannot flow back into the living spaces. There is nothing wrong with sealing around the edges of the refrig, but it should not be necessary.
Second, the question "How do you power the refrig while driving down the road?" keeps coming up. Safety-minded people (including me) say "No" to propane, worrying about fire even in a minor accident. Electrical people (including me) say "No" to battery power, since for many of us, it tends to kill the TM battery.
So what is the answer? For us, the answer is "Don't power it." If the refrig and freezer are cold when we leave a campground in the morning, and then we drive all day with the refrig turned off, we find that the refrig AND FREEZER are still plenty cold when we arrive at the next campground. Once there, we fire up the propane or connect the shore power, and all is well. I'll admit that I like my before-dinner martini, so if we found all the ice melted when we got to the campground, I would not be pleased. But for us, if there is ice in the freezer in the early morning, there is still ice in the freezer in late afternoon.
Bill
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Bill, either you have the best insulated Norcold that was ever made, or I have the worst. If I drive 10+ hours with an "unpowered" refrigerator (in 85 degree plus weather), my inside temps are about 60 and 40 respectively, and all the ice is now water at the bottom the fridge.
It would be interesting to see if others are closer to your results, or my results?
Dave