TrailManor Owner's Forum - View Single Post - Can I run the refrig on AC from an inverter in the tow vehicle?

**Bill** · 04-07-2005, 04:07 PM

Ray is right about almost everything - but not quite everything.

I agree with him that you almost certainly do NOT have a problem. Most of us don't - but a few of us (including me) do have it. Regardless of the reason - and there are several - it is real. But as he advises, don't get excited unless you confirm that you are one of the unlucky ones.

I disagree with him that it is OK to pull the fuse at the battery. DO NOT DO THIS! If you do, a critical function will not work. That function, unrelated to the refrigerator, is the BREAKAWAY switch. If your trailer should ever become unhitched from the car (break away) while you are driving, there is a switch on the trailer that applies full trailer brakes, to bring that big hunk of metal to a quick stop. Since the trailer is no longer connected to the car, the only source of power for the brakes is the trailer battery. If you have pulled the fuse, the brakes won't work. That big ol' hunk of metal will sail down the highway, taking out road signs, construction workers, and other cars, until something finally brings it to a halt. You don't want any part in that scenario unless the words "negligent homicide" and "prison" have a special allure for you.

I have been the proud, silent, and usually lone advocate of adding an AMMETER in the battery line. Here we go again. An ammeter will tell you at a glance whether the battery is being charged or discharged, and how fast. A voltmeter won't. A voltmeter tells you how full the bucket is, but in most cases doesn't tell you whether water is being added or is leaking out. You have to wait for a while to see if the level changes. Ray's procedure will, in fact, tell you if the battery is being charged or discharged, so it is adequate for your particular question. But it will give you no clue about how fast either one is taking place. Inquiring minds want to know!

Bill

04-07-2005, 04:07 PM	#14
Bill Site Team Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine Posts: 10,121	So close, Ray! Ray is right about almost everything - but not quite everything. I agree with him that you almost certainly do NOT have a problem. Most of us don't - but a few of us (including me) do have it. Regardless of the reason - and there are several - it is real. But as he advises, don't get excited unless you confirm that you are one of the unlucky ones. I disagree with him that it is OK to pull the fuse at the battery. DO NOT DO THIS! If you do, a critical function will not work. That function, unrelated to the refrigerator, is the BREAKAWAY switch. If your trailer should ever become unhitched from the car (break away) while you are driving, there is a switch on the trailer that applies full trailer brakes, to bring that big hunk of metal to a quick stop. Since the trailer is no longer connected to the car, the only source of power for the brakes is the trailer battery. If you have pulled the fuse, the brakes won't work. That big ol' hunk of metal will sail down the highway, taking out road signs, construction workers, and other cars, until something finally brings it to a halt. You don't want any part in that scenario unless the words "negligent homicide" and "prison" have a special allure for you. I have been the proud, silent, and usually lone advocate of adding an AMMETER in the battery line. Here we go again. An ammeter will tell you at a glance whether the battery is being charged or discharged, and how fast. A voltmeter won't. A voltmeter tells you how full the bucket is, but in most cases doesn't tell you whether water is being added or is leaking out. You have to wait for a while to see if the level changes. Ray's procedure will, in fact, tell you if the battery is being charged or discharged, so it is adequate for your particular question. But it will give you no clue about how fast either one is taking place. Inquiring minds want to know! Bill __________________ 2020 2720QS (aka 2720SL) 2014 Ford F-150 4WD 5.0L Bill's Tech Stuff album