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Old 07-18-2018, 01:03 PM   #2
grubbyjeans
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 93
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Originally Posted by Cynical View Post
What should one use as the definitive as to whether your rig is level or not? When I hauled my 5er, it was fairly easy as it was all 1 piece. With so many moving parts on the TM, I am not sure which is the best way to go about determining if I am "level". Currently, if I put a torpedo level on the tongue, it is level front-back and left-right. If I go inside (before stabilizing jacks) and put it on the sink counter, L-R is still decent, but it says I need to go up in the front. I can put the stabilizers down until just touching and get something totally different. and then the tongue is now not as level as it was.

Does someone have a leveling system or procedure that you do that works well? If the tongue readings are not the way to go, what should I use, the counter, floor, ???? Obviously, I need to stay with the tongue and/or the main box as the shells add their own level of difficulty to the whole thing. LOL. Thanks.

Kathi
Here's my process, from this thread. (Some good discussion)
This is the primary reason that I DON'T use the jacks for leveling. I bought two rv bubble levels, big enough that I can see them from my tv. I placed one of them on the front shell, near center and high enough that I can see it through my rear window. I placed the other on the street side, near the clearance lamp.

I leveled the TM in my driveway using a 6' level on the floor. Once it was level, I attached the bubble levels.

Setup:

1. Locate my TM on the pad.
2. Place a leveling ramp behind the tire on the low side. I use the ramp because it is lighter and the easiest to use.
3. Slowly move the TM until I can see that 'side-to-side' is level. I just roll until I'm level, lock the brake and chock.
4. Chock the wheels placing one on the opposite side of the ramped wheel.
5. Disconnect and level front-to-rear using the tongue jack.
6. Lower the jacks using my battery powered drill, with the clutch at about 3/4 full lockup, until the clutch slips on each jack.

That puts enough tension on the jacks to stabilize the trailer without inducing any twist in the frame and most of the weight remains on the suspension.
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