Good suggestion, Bob. Beyond that, if you have a test meter, and if you feel you can safely use it (both big requirements), you can also test the element itself.
1. Disconnect the TM from shore power!!! Now there is no power anywhere that can hurt you.
2. Turn the water heater switch (the one in the outside compartment) to OFF.
3. Remove the black cover from the element connections.
4. Disconnect both wires from the screws on the element, and push them aside.
You have already done all of the steps above, so they are easy. Now ...
5. Set your meter to the lowest resistance scale - it is probably called "OHMS X 1". With the probes not touching anything, an analog meter will read all the way to the left. A digital meter will read a very high value, or more likely something like "OL".
6. Touch the two probe tips together. Confirm that the meter reads somewhere near ZERO OHMS. On an analog meter, this means that the pointer will move to the top of the scale, which reads ZERO ohms. If your meter is digital, the reading will be something around Zero. In either case, turn the adjustment knob until the meter reads full scale or ZERO.
7. Press the probe tips firmly against the two element screws.
If the element is bad, the analog meter will barely move, if at all. On a digital meter, the reading will stay very high.
If the element is good, the analog meter will move up to somewhere near the top of the scale, stopping at a reading in the neighborhood of 10. The digital meter will read somewhere around 10. Note that the suggested reading of "10" is not exact. All we are looking for is something approximating that.
8. Button everything back up safely.
I know it is a little late to point this out, but it is not a bad idea to perform this test on the old element, before removing it, to confirm that you are not removing a good element. It is also a good idea to perform this test on the new element before you install it, so you are sure you are not installing a bad element.
Bill