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05-07-2003, 09:53 AM
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#1
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Guest
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AC and Generators
Today, I went into Home Depot and saw two units, one an 8,000 btu Maytag w/remote control for 188.00, and a 10,000 btu Maytag w/remote control for 239.00. Both units will fit in the cabinet quite nicely where my worn out old unit is. My question is this, I have purchased a generator 2600w/3100w peak, in order to be able to run my old 8,000 btu unit, will it push the new 10,000btu maytag? I didn't even think to check to see the wattage on the ac unit. I know most TM's come with a 10,000 btu unit, so probably quite a few people in here know roundabout what their units are pushing. Thanks for any and all help, I know this topic has been mentioned somewhere before, but seemed like an easy enough question to ask.
Sincerely,
[glow=red,2,300]Happytrails...........[/glow]
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05-07-2003, 12:33 PM
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#2
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Guest
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Re: AC and Generators
I can't say anything about the generator, but will tell you that before recently moving to a new house, I put a Maytag window unit in a large bedroom (16,000 BTU). It was the most effecient and quiet unit I have ever seen. I strongly recommend the Maytag.
Chris
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05-07-2003, 02:01 PM
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#3
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Guest
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Re: AC and Generators
speaking of A/C unit, we have 1997 2619 model and didn't come with air. the wife asked for A/C for next summer trip to Yosemite NP of August,03....anyway! anybody on board ever try to install one at home ???... we saw some window types A/C unit on sale at our local Home Depot . is that the right one for 2619 model and "easy" to install?....please help!!!..you can e-mail us at [email protected] for instruction and materials....thank you
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05-07-2003, 02:53 PM
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#4
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Diego CA
Posts: 130
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Re: AC and Yosemite
Yosemite NP. So many things to do there. We camped at Hodgdon Meadows campground in a tent last year. It is on the north west side of the park by one of the park entrances. That is where I saw my first Trailmanor and what convinced me that this is what we need. That campground is at a good elevation, 4872 ft. While the valley floor is in the 90's is was about 5 to 7degrees cooler at the higher elevation.
For day trips you can go even higher where it is in the 70's. Nights are cool. So even if we had A/C we wouldn't have used it. nor would we want to disturb the peace of the other campers in that campground. In Yosemite you really don't sit at your campsite much when there is so much to see and do. As far as I know, there are no hook-ups in Yosemite for visitors, only employees like the campground host. The AAA camping guide lists no hook-ups. But some of the camping areas in the valley are suited for RV's so they may use generators there.
Good luck,
Bob
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05-08-2003, 12:13 AM
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#5
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 152
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Re: AC and Generators
Quote:
Today, I went into Home Depot and saw two units, one an 8,000 btu Maytag w/remote control for 188.00, and a 10,000 btu Maytag w/remote control for 239.00. Both units will fit in the cabinet quite nicely where my worn out old unit is. My question is this, I have purchased a generator 2600w/3100w peak, in order to be able to run my old 8,000 btu unit, will it push the new 10,000btu maytag? I didn't even think to check to see the wattage on the ac unit. I know most TM's come with a 10,000 btu unit, so probably quite a few people in here know roundabout what their units are pushing. Thanks for any and all help, I know this topic has been mentioned somewhere before, but seemed like an easy enough question to ask.
Sincerely,
[glow=red,2,300]Happytrails...........[/glow]
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Watts = Volts x Amps
Since most 10,000 btu A/C draw 15 amps or less. I have a 10,000 btu A/C on a 15 amp circuit at home.
120 volts x 15 amps = 1800 watts
It would appear the generater is sufficient for the A/C.
It has been over 20 years since I did this in school. If I'm remembering this incorrectly someone will correct me.
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05-09-2003, 10:18 AM
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#6
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Guest
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Re: AC and Generators
Yes, that is correct Rick, I asked my dad the next day who knows a lot about that kind of stuff. I did make the purchase and bought the 10,000 btu Maytag from Home depot they have on sale right now. It installed next to effortlessly, and fit like a champ tho the bathroom door won't open up all the way like it used to. But that's no big deal. The one I bought only draws 9 amps, and does seem to do the job nicely! 2619'er, all you have to do is remove the screws from the cover on the outside of the cabinet. (Providing yours already has a provision for an ac unit). and put the new one in there, plug it into the plug that's in there just for the ac unit, and put the cover back on. That's all there is to it unless you're going to have to rearange your whole cabinet area. I didn't even have to take the thing off the top of the ac unit to make it fit that normally stops it when it's sitting in a regular window! After buying my Maytag, I was kinda shocked that not only did it have a 5 year IN HOME warrenty, but Fedders would be the ones to provide the service/parts I need!
[glow=red,2,300]Happytrails..........[/glow] 8)
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05-09-2003, 11:29 AM
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#7
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Guest
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Re: AC and Generators
Hi Happytrails,
the reason I asked how to install A/C on my 2619 model is my TM don't have rear air drill and drain hose inside cabinet, just a outlet on r/h side. That mean if I want to install a A/C unit, I need to cutout a rectangular hole in the back of cabinet and install a metal air drill outside. also, drill a hole inside cabinet down to the floor of TM and install a plastic hose connects from bottom of A/C unit to outside of trailer for water comes out from condensor of A/C unit....two things I worry right now are :1- how to drain condensor's moister?
2- how cool down the heat is generated from the back of A/C unit, when the cabinet is enclosed compartment?......My local RV service charge for installation is around $250 for labor and parts.... :'(
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06-28-2003, 01:52 AM
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#8
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Guest
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Re: AC and Generators
Yesterday, we replaced our AC with a 10,000 BTU Sears unit: Mfg model #74106, Sears model #02274106000. It fit ;D Not all 10,000 BTUs have identical dimensions. Our former unit was anchored and it took a little while to figure out how to anchor this one but we did. It was an inch narrower than the Fedders so we replace the thin cabinet strips on each side of the AC inside the TM with wider strips to take up the slack. Used screws to attach them so they could be removed easily if we need to service the AC. What a dream come true: 10,000 BTU ;D Our bathroom door still opens normally since this unit does not extend any farther into the TM than the Fedders did.
2619r, our unit has a drain tray. The factory installed tray had gotten brittle and the nipple where the plastic drain hose is attached had broken off. We got a new one from TM when we visited the factory last year. There is a hole in the center of the tray with a nipple attached - extending from the under side. It passes through a hole in the AC compartment floor. I have attached flexible plastic tubing to this nipple because I had trouble with the rigid one supplied by TM crimping as it passed over the wheel well. Once past the wheel well, this tubing is inserted into the rigid TM version which passes through a hole exactly it's diameter in the floor behind the wheel well. To keep the TM tubing from falling out I used a metal hose band clamp around the hose near its exit through the floor. If you need to drill holes you can skip the rigid section and just drill a hole the diameter of the flexible tubing.
I am not aware of heat being a problem. Our grill on the outside of the AC compartment is 31.5" X 17.5" Someone else will have to speak to that issue.
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