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Old 10-23-2013, 01:09 PM   #1
Bernbob
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Default No electrical power to the water heater

OK, I am probably posting this in the wrong place, and this question has probably been already discussed, but I couldn't find it, so here it goes.
2011 3124KS
Just came back from Ashville NC for nine days and realized that the water heater no longer works while on shore power. I think it went out at the last campground we stayed in before returning to Florida(worked fine the rest of the time). I checked the breaker and all the fuses in the converter. No blown fuses and the breakers are working as they should(110 coming in and 110 going out, and yes I checked all breakers, including the 20-20). But----I noticed that there is no power at the outside heater switch(checked by putting an ohm meter across the leads on the switch and found no current at that point). I checked the switch with an ohm meter with no power and the switch seems to be functioning fine.
I did notice that when I pulled the fuses in the converter(30amp) each lit the little red light next to it, with the exception of one, that light only flickered for a second and then remained out(don't know what it means though).
Everything else electrical in the camper is working fine, including the fridge and the AC.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'm not super mechanical, and I am sure I am missing something. Thanks for any help you can provide. Bernie
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Old 10-23-2013, 01:44 PM   #2
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Do a search on “water heater problem” This was just discussed in detail about a week ago. I’m not sure if you can do a search if you are not a member, if not, It’s well worth the cost to join. Ed
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Old 10-23-2013, 02:17 PM   #3
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Default No power to water heater

OK, I read all the post about the water heater, as I had already done, and nowhere have I found one about no power at the water heater. Am I missing something. An yes, I did a search exactly as you stated I should. My problem is not that the water heater is tripping a breaker. It is that there is no power to the heater at all.
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Old 10-23-2013, 05:26 PM   #4
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If you have burned out the heating element, you may see the symptoms you are experiencing. There should be a thread that discussed how to check the element. Or you can heat water with propane.
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:48 PM   #5
rvcycleguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterP View Post
If you have burned out the heating element, you may see the symptoms you are experiencing. There should be a thread that discussed how to check the element. Or you can heat water with propane.
Took the words right out of my keyboard.... Exactly what I was thinking.
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Old 11-12-2013, 11:07 AM   #6
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Replaced the heating element to no avail. Still no power at the water heater. Is it possible that it could be the thermostat? I noticed that when you purchase some heating elements at Lowes or Home Depot they come packaged with a new thermostat. I really am at a loss. It bother's me enough that if I cant fix it myself, I will probably take it to a camper dealer somewhere in the area to have fixed. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 11-12-2013, 01:00 PM   #7
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I would concentrate my time back on the switch. I read you checked with a meter but maybe it's giving you a false positive? It's not that expensive to replace. Maybe it has some corrosion on the rear of the switch. Remove it and check the integrity of the connections. Then check and follow the leads to the switch.
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bernbob View Post
... the water heater no longer works while on shore power. I checked the breaker and all the fuses in the converter.
The fuses control only the 12-volt circuits, so stop mucking with them. They are not involved in the problem.

Quote:
No blown fuses and the breakers are working as they should(110 coming in and 110 going out, and yes I checked all breakers, including the 20-20).
Good. So you know that 120 VAC is heading out toward the water heater.

Quote:
But----I noticed that there is no power at the outside heater switch(checked by putting an ohm meter across the leads on the switch and found no current at that point).
I don't understand what you did here. You are trying to check for VOLTAGE - or is it CURRENT - using an OHM meter? If shore power was on, and you put a voltmeter across the switch leads, and found no voltage when the switch is switched on, then that is expected. There should be no voltage across a switch that is on, since the switch is a short circuit. If that is not what you meant, please clarify.

Quote:
I checked the switch with an ohm meter with no power and the switch seems to be functioning fine.
So the switch measures zero ohms in the ON position, and infinite ohms in the OFF position? Please confirm that this is what you found. That is what you would expect to find.

Quote:
I did notice that when I pulled the fuses in the converter(30amp) each lit the little red light next to it, with the exception of one, that light only flickered for a second and then remained out(don't know what it means though).
Again, you shouldn't be mucking with the fuses.

The one thing you don't seem to have done is to check to see if shore power is getting to the switch. To do this, turn the switch OFF. Put the first probe of your voltmeter on any convenient ground, and leave it there. Clip it on somehow so it stays in place. You don't want to have to hold it in place with your hand.

Now put the second probe on the side of the switch that is wired to the incoming power (not the side that is wired toward the heater element). You should see 120VAC. If so, this verifies that power is getting to the switch.

Now move the second probe to the other side of the switch, the side that is wired toward the heater element. You should see 0 volts. This verifies that the switch turns OFF properly.

Now, without moving the probe, turn the switch ON. You should see 120 VAC. This verifies that the switch turns ON properly.

When you have done this, let us know which step is failing - because if they are all good, then power is reaching the water heater as it should.

By the way, without meaning to offend, are you sure that you have enough knowledge of electricity to be doing this? Shore power is dangerous. You can hurt or kill yourself in an instant. If you don't have the skills and knowledge, you should stop, and find someone who does.

Bill
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Old 11-12-2013, 03:32 PM   #9
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Excellent trouble shooting guild by Bill. Now if you do have 120v from the switch to the water heater check the thermostat for power the same way as Bill outlined for the switch. My thermostat went out last year. You can pick one up at almost any RV parts place for $15 or $20 and it is easy to replace if you are halfway handy. As a reminder just be sure the heater is full of water before you supply power to it.

Ed
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Old 11-13-2013, 04:41 PM   #10
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Digger -

You are exactly right. How could I forget? The two black buttons, each the size of a quarter, in the black rectangle at the top of this picture.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...&pictureid=447

Very easy to check - just push them with your thumb and see if they click.

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