Air conditioner placement

I just purchased a new (to us) 1998 3124SL with a roof AC unit on the back shell. It seems to me that the extra 95 lbs on that shell could cause problems sometime down the road. Can you all tell me how the cabinet AC units are placed, how the hot air they generate is ducted out, and how well they work? Are there any problems associated with them vs. roof units? Thanks for your willingness to share your knowledge!!

[G-V_Driver]

Don't know about your unit, but ours is the same model and year --I think--as yours. I've noticed that it helps to support the right side of the shell (the one with the A/C mounted on it) just a little when I lower it, as the heavier A/C side will otherwise sink faster and cause the non A/C side to "kick out" away from the lower body as it settles into position for locking. If I hold on to the bottom of the A/C side and just let it settle at the same rate as the lighter side, it goes down easily and tracks straight. The shell seems to raise normally, so the only issue seems to be putting it down. We're relatively new to TM ownership, and some of the more experienced owners will know more about long-term problems.

We're in Dallas. You live anywhere close? My email is listed in the profile if you ever want to compare notes or chat about our units. They may be almost identical.

[mjlaupp]

[quote author=hd123 link=board=22;threadid=1579;start=msg11153#msg1115 3 date=1071977995]
I just purchased a new (to us) 1998 3124SL with a roof AC unit on the back shell. It seems to me that the extra 95 lbs on that shell could cause problems sometime down the road. Can you all tell me how the cabinet AC units are placed, how the hot air they generate is ducted out, and how well they work? Are there any problems associated with them vs. roof units? Thanks for your willingness to share your knowledge!!
[/quote]

Having owned a '97 2720 with a side mounted AC and now a '03 with a front roof mounted AC, I can tell you that the air circulation and cooling capacity is much better with the roof mount units.

The roof units are 13,500 BTU (15,000 BTU optional). The side units are 8,500 BTU. Some owners have replaced the side unit with up to a 11,500 BTU window AC where they can find one that fits the existing opening.

The roof is reinforced to suppport the AC and the factory installs heavier torsion bars on the rear shell to support the extra load.

The most common complaint about the rear roof mounted unit is the noise it generates in the sleeping area.

The side mount unit is installed in the cabinet between the stove and the drawers. The intake air for the condenser coil has to be ducted to the outside and a drain has to be installed for condensate. This would be a rather major retrofit and I'm not shure that you would gain anything. In fact, you would be loosing some storage space in the process.

I would not recommend making this change to your TM. It is engineered to have the AC on the rear roof shell and will hold up very well in this configuration.

MJL

[Denny_A]

[quote author=G-V_Driver link=board=22;threadid=1579;start=msg11154#msg1115 4 date=1071984443]
I've noticed that it helps to support the right side of the shell (the one with the A/C mounted on it) just a little when I lower it, as the heavier A/C side will otherwise sink faster and cause the non A/C side to "kick out" away from the lower body as it settles into position for locking. If I hold on to the bottom of the A/C side and just let it settle at the same rate as the lighter side, it goes down easily and tracks straight.
[/quote]
G_V,

I think your problem, with the AC side of the rear shell lowering faster, can be cured fairly easily.

There are torsion rod adjusting bolts, which set the rate at which force is applied to the lift arms during lowering. When properly adjusted, the shell lowers parallel to the frame. In your case, the AC side torsion rod is probably starting it's rotation with too little initial "preset" torque. So, as the torsion rod rotates during lowering, the torque never can increase rapidly enough to meet the need to lower both sides of the shell at the same rate (parallel to the frame).

I'll save typing by refering you to a post about "Fine tuning the lift mechanism". Refer to Reply #1.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/yabb...sg4668#msg4668


HTH,

Denny_A

[G-V_Driver]

Well, la-de-dah and dang-my-hide, Denny. I hadn't ever thought about that, but guess there's nothing in the big book of TM'ing that says both them doo-dads got to be same tight as the other'n.

Assuming that is the case, and further assuming I can figure out left from right and tight from loose, that may be the solution. Are idea how many turns I should expect to correct the problem?

Thanks,

Wayne

[Denny_A]

[quote author=G-V_Driver link=board=22;threadid=1579;start=msg11161#msg1116 1 date=1072063365]
Assuming that is the case, and further assuming I can figure out left from right and tight from loose, that may be the solution. Are idea how many turns I should expect to correct the problem?
[/quote]

Wayne,

I think you'll just have to twist and test. I haven't heard of any "x" turns means "Y" lb-ft of additional torque, type of guidelines.

Since the torsion needs "increasing" on the AC side of the shell, the adjustment bolt(s) will need to turned so that the end of the bolt, which is in contact with the torsion rod, applies more force (clockwise). If I were doing it, I'd start with 1/2 turn at the rear-most torsion rod. Then lower the shell and check the effect.

There is also a possibility that you may need to adjust BOTH torsion rods on the same side, as over-adjustment, by adjusting just one, could have other unintended effects.

Twist and test until the shell opens and closes to YOUR satisfaction.

Denny_A

[G-V_Driver]

Wrench, uhh, lessee, I know there's one around here somewhere . . .