Battery 30amp Inline Fuse

Originally Posted by cali camping

I think if you have the new model 3 stage converter installed by TM in the 2007 models that there is no need to disconnect the battery and charge it with an outboard "automatic 3 stage shop charger"...

Thanks Chip. My thinking is that the onboard converter, attempting to recharge a seriously depleted battery, ran just enough current through the cheap plastic fuse folder for a long enough period to melt the solder on the fuse and burn the plastic. By pulling the newly installed blade fuse and connecting the shop charger, I take the trailer wiring totally out of the recharging equation. I just think it is easier on the wiring and the converter. If my status panel shows two or more lights, I let the converter recharge the battery. One light, I hook up the shop charger. I know my train of thought may be "derailed" but I always try to err on the side of caution.

Your shop charger is a good choice and probably gets the job done a lot quicker than the converter. Probably better for your battery, too. I even carry a charger with us when we travel and use it on the battery if it gets very low. I also pull the fuse when using the charger although I don't really think it's necessary.

Those comments on the converter brings up a question for me. I have the new 3 stage converter that comes on the 2007+ models. As we are leaving for a trip this Thursday I checked the battery it was at 12.34. The trailer has been plugged in for the past couple of weeks, so why is it that the battery wasn't charged???

Mike Anderson

[Bill]

Mike -

Can you post a manufacturer name and model number for your converter?

Bill

Bill...

Here is the make and model number. It is a WFCO Power Center, model 8955.

According to the manual it states: Float Mode: If the RV has not been used for a period of time and the shore power has been left plugged in, the converter will automatically go into the float mode. The converter will sense if there has been any demand. It will go into float mode if no activity. When the converter senses a demand by turning on the lights the converter automatically goes into bulk mode and will return to absorption mode after 4 hours. (Bulk mode activates if the converter senses the voltage is less than 13.2 VDC.

Now in my situation where the battery is at 12.34 volts you would think it would kick in (bulk mode).??

Mike

[Bill]

Yes, I think it would / should kick in the bulk mode.

As near as I can tell, the WFCO converters have been pretty good (I have no personal experience since my TM has an American Enterprises converter - and absolutely no info to go with it). But I don't think we've had many complaints about the WFCOs here on the Forum.

What are you using to measure the battery voltage? Presumably a meter - analog? digital? - but do you have access to another meter that you could use as a comparison?

Failing all else, I think I would ask the dealer or the factory about this. A no-load reading of 12.34 volts implies about 70% charged. That's not very good.

Finally, I don't know if the WFCO units have any internal adjustments. I just can't find any info on the internal electronic circuits. The old Magnetek / Parallax converters weren't very good, but at least you could get schematics and parts lists for them. If anyone knows of a data source for the WFCOs, please let me know.

Bill

You may want to try and run a desulfication charge on a battery. We picked up a 25/10/2 amp charger recently for less than $50 that also has that option. The desulfication process runs for a 24 hour period and helps restore battery capacity. Since moving up to a new trailer, I let my trail manor sit unused for a couple of months. Since it is stored in a storage area not near my house I infrequently got a chance to plug the TM into my TV or generator while I was working on my other unit. End result was deep discharge on both batteries and their "failure" to hold a charge. Using the desulfication process I have been able to recover one of the batteries. I have run 4 desulfication cycles on the other and still have plates shorted internally (5.6v reading). The charger instruction say try up to 5 desulfication cycles. If it doesn't recover after 5 cycles it is truely dead.

BIll

Bill and Bill,

My voltmeter is digital and I don't have access to another one...

The battery is a less than a year old AGM Lifeline battery. I don't think there is anything wrong with it. I DID take the battery out and charge it fully yesterday with my Xantrex battery charger. It's back in the trailer now.
As we are leaving tomorrow am for a 3 day'r up to Oregon, will try a test to see whether the charger kicks in or not. I will run, while traveling, with the frig in battery mode, and once there use as much electrical as possible (12 volt wise). Then check the battery and converter to see if it does do any charging.

Then when I get back will most likely contact a dealer...

Thanks for your help.

Mike Anderson

and once there use as much electrical as possible (12 volt wise)
That may not be the best idea - a discharged battery will sulfate much more rapidly than a charged one will.

[ShrimpBurrito]

Here's a ATC fuse holder with 10 gauge wire on eBay sold by what appears to be a reputable seller. $4.44 delivered, and it includes a 30A fuse. I think I'm going to get one.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=180134426913