Stabilizer Scissor Jack Modification

The way every travel trailer manufacturer (TM included) mounts the stabilizer jacks to the frame is exactly the wrong way to do it.

The way the manufacturers mount the jacks to the trailer is to install all four of the jacks all aligned and parallel to each other. In other words, the two jacks on the left side of the trailer are mounted perpendicular to the frame (one in the front and one in the back) and the two jacks on the right side are installed the exact same way.

Since the scissor jacks have an inherent "weak spot" in each of the joints, and since all of the jacks are mounted to the frame all lined up in the exact same way...all of the weak spots are also all lined up and therefore the trailer wobbles a bit when up on the stabilizer jacks.

I decided that I would offset the mounting of the jacks on the frame and I found that the trailer is now much more stable when up on jacks.

The rear jacks on my trailer are now installed at a 45 degree angle to the frame. The front jacks are installed on the forward frame joint (where the two frame rails begin to turn inboard and converge as they move forward toward the trailer hitch). This is a great location because the joing is reinforced by a steel plate under the joint and the angle of these two converging frame rails are is more like 30 degrees to the parallel frame rails.

So now...since each scissor jack is pointed in a different direction, all of the weak links in the jack assemblies are no longer aligned with one another.

I found that the trailer is really much more stable now when jacked up as a result of this mod.

Additionally, since I raised the lift on the trailer 6 inches, I also carry wood blocks that I place under the stabilizer jacks so that the jacks only really need to extend down about 10 inches before they begin to rest on top of the blocks. Since the jacks are only partially extended they are even more stable.

On the top of each wood block I installed a 3/8 inch diameter by 6 inch long wood lag bolt and left the shank sticking out of the top of each wood block about 1 inch.

I then drilled a 1/2 in hole into the bottom of each stabilizer jack foot pad.

So now...after the wood block is placed under the jack, the shank of the bolt sticks up into the hole in the bottom of the jack foot pad so there is no fear of the jack slipping off of the wood block.

Well...I guess since our trailer is no longer rock'in...you can bother knock'in!?!?!

Playing devils advocate here -

If you don't bolt the wood block to the foot of each jack, what prevents the jacks from wobbling on top of the blocks? I also would have concern if the blocks are on a softer campground surface and settle unevenly. I am not suggesting the trailer will fall over, I wonder if these conditions would result in wobble you are trying to eliminate.

I think having the jacks aligned differently is brilliant. Post the idea on TMs Facebook page, they look at ideas there.

[scrubjaysnest]

Might have to look at this a little closer. We had a pup once that had the jacks placed at angles.

The offset jacks really make the trailer more stable.

The wood blocks are essentially a different discussion.

Wood blocks?!?!?! Ohh...I'm glad you mentioned them...

I made my wood blocks out of pressure treated 2X6. I cut the 2X6 boards into 12" lengths. Then I stacked three of the 12" blocks on top of each other and nailed them together into one very solid block that is essentially 4.5 inches tall, 5.5 inches wide, and 12 inches long.

This is a very large, wide, and stable base.

When camping out in the bush we first try to find the most level spot. When the trailer is mostly level on it's own, I figure out where to place the wood blocks and I use my camp shovel to carve out a flat area under each scissor jack so the wood blocks sit very level.

Then I lower the scissor jacks down and the trailer is pretty solid. I feel more comfortable knowing that each block has a stud sticking out of the top and this stud sticks into a hole on the bottom of the jack pad so there is no way the jack can slip off of the blocks.

Since it is NEVER good to lift the trailer off of the ground using only the scissor jacks. I did this once with our old tent trailer and resulted in a near disaster. Link this trailer, the last one was lifted 6 inches and I was extending all four jacks down almost to their full length. Since ALL of the jacks were aligned they all had just enough wobble where they ALL wobbled over together and bent over. Fortunately I still had the tires on and the trailer only rolled a short distance. I wont do that again.

Sometimes out in the forest I level the trailer left and right by digging a small hole on the high side of the trailer and then back the high side tire into the hole to assist with the left to right leveling. Or I drive the low side up on a 2X6 board.

I also now always use the tongue jack as additional support.

I've used 6x6 blocks under my stabilizers since I first got my PUP last year (upgraded this year). And, I don't have any bolting system. The weight of the TM keep the block and the stabilizer together. I haven't seen any problems with it, even with the lighter PUP. My blocks are pressure treated lumbar as well.

As far as the settling, since the blocks have a surface area of 6x12 inches, they don't tend to settle as much in softer ground. I haven't had any troubles on gravel, or the grass next to my barn - where the TM is parked until my next trip.

[Lesherp]

My trailer seems pretty stable once I block the tires and put it down on the jacks but there is a degree of movement. This might be a mod worth doing.

I had some wood laying around when I got the trailer and screwed together four blocks for the jacks and one for the tongue jack. It saves having to lower the jacks as much, making for less play. I have even stacked two when leveling on uneven ground. I have found no instability with the weight of the trailer on them. I level the ground they sit on if it isn't.

Originally Posted by Camper One

The way every travel trailer manufacturer (TM included) mounts the stabilizer jacks to the frame is exactly the wrong way to do it.

The way the manufacturers mount the jacks to the trailer is to install all four of the jacks all aligned and parallel to each other. In other words, the two jacks on the left side of the trailer are mounted perpendicular to the frame (one in the front and one in the back) and the two jacks on the right side are installed the exact same way.

Since the scissor jacks have an inherent "weak spot" in each of the joints, and since all of the jacks are mounted to the frame all lined up in the exact same way...all of the weak spots are also all lined up and therefore the trailer wobbles a bit when up on the stabilizer jacks.

I decided that I would offset the mounting of the jacks on the frame and I found that the trailer is now much more stable when up on jacks.

The rear jacks on my trailer are now installed at a 45 degree angle to the frame. The front jacks are installed on the forward frame joint (where the two frame rails begin to turn inboard and converge as they move forward toward the trailer hitch). This is a great location because the joing is reinforced by a steel plate under the joint and the angle of these two converging frame rails are is more like 30 degrees to the parallel frame rails.

So now...since each scissor jack is pointed in a different direction, all of the weak links in the jack assemblies are no longer aligned with one another.

I found that the trailer is really much more stable now when jacked up as a result of this mod.

Additionally, since I raised the lift on the trailer 6 inches, I also carry wood blocks that I place under the stabilizer jacks so that the jacks only really need to extend down about 10 inches before they begin to rest on top of the blocks. Since the jacks are only partially extended they are even more stable.

On the top of each wood block I installed a 3/8 inch diameter by 6 inch long wood lag bolt and left the shank sticking out of the top of each wood block about 1 inch.

I then drilled a 1/2 in hole into the bottom of each stabilizer jack foot pad.

So now...after the wood block is placed under the jack, the shank of the bolt sticks up into the hole in the bottom of the jack foot pad so there is no fear of the jack slipping off of the wood block.

Well...I guess since our trailer is no longer rock'in...you can bother knock'in!?!?!

Any pics pls...

[Redtail Cruiser]

Hi erbalux and welcome to the forum. Like you, Camper One is a trial member, so he may not check in on a regular basis. You might try sending him a private message, to get the pics of his mod.

[pemc4279]

My distaste for scissor jacks comes from my ignorance when first using them, but it solidifies concerns posted by Camper One. Our first experience was a rental of a pop-up with canvas sides. I used the scissor jacks to level, putting them too high, but quickly noticed the weak spots. Since then, while I'm leveling before engaging jacks, I still feel like they're weak. Anyone thought of replacing them with drop leg jacks like in the pic I've attached?

[tentcamper]

Your picture of what you call drop leg jacks, are stabilizers. Not meant to jack up anything. Flip down jacks, you flip, and slid them and the last step you can use the jack handle, which most people don't know how to jack them up or have the jack handle. If you have a handle it's a strange jacking method to apply tension. Scissor jacks are truly jacks, you can apply much more force on them, they are made for lifting.

I have used both and like the scissor jacks much more for taking out the bounce of a trailer.