Refrig DC Operation Question

[Joesplace]

Since I am new to RV life, please help me understand the refrigerator DC operation.

I assume this mode is usually used while traveling. Cool the refrig prior to traveling in propane or 115AC mode then use on DC to maintain cooling?

So, what about the refrig fan? Nothing in the Norcold manual about this but I guess it's used to draw heat out while trailer is closed and refrig is on DC operation. Is this fan thermostat controlled or just on 24/7 while switch is in on position. Should the fan be used in anything other than DC mode?

Thanks . . .

[Bill]

The fan is not thermostatically controlled. It is just a simple exhaust fan, no more. Its function is to remove the heat created by the refrig itself while the refrig is operating.

It seems counter-intuitive, but the refrig uses heat to generate cold. There are three sources of heat - an AC heater, a DC heater, and a propane flame - and you get to choose which you want to use at any given time. Regardless of which source you choose, the purpose of the fan is to remove the waste heat from the process. The fan should be used whenever the refrig is on (regardless of heat source) and the TM is closed. It is also a good thing to turn it on when the TM is open, especially if the outside temperature is high. In other words, there is no wrong time use the fan.

If you are boondocking, conserving every spec of electricity, and the TM is set up and the refrig is running on propane, you can turn the fan off, but expect some compromise in the refrig's ability to generate cold.

Bill

[Padgett]

In theory when travelling the fridge will run on the TV power through the Bargman connector. In any use the fridge heater generates a lot of well, heat and that needs to be dissipated. The issue is that when the TM is closed up there is no airflow to dissipate the heat and certain things (like the counter over the fridge) can get quite hot. If closed and in a warm summer sun this can get worse.

So it is best to prechill the fridge on mains power for a day or two before leaving but also important to make sure the fridge is turned off completely (full clockwise & in 4 o'clock position, temp at 1)before storage particularly if the coach is powered to float the battery.

Personally I think gas absorption cooling is not only wierd but also very inefficient however is the only reasonable way to cool with propane.

ps now that I think on it, a thermostatic control on the fan would make a lot of sense.

Put things like unopened drinks in the fridge when pre-cooling. The air in the fridge is a poor storage medium for cold. A cold fridge half full of cold drinks will stay cool longer than an empty one especially if turned off for the trip. Unless you have a good heavy duty conductor from the TV battery to the Bargman, you will end using some or all of your battery traveling on 12V fridge power.

[Padgett]

Nice thing about a factory towing package with a Class IV receiver is that you have things like a 10 gauge wire on a 30A fuse from main power & similar ground connector to the Bargman and 150A or greater alternator.

The towing package often sounds expensive until you see all of the upgrades it includes.

Yes. But you have to be careful to get a factory installed tow package not the dealer ( usually third party) installed package because you asked for that option on a vehicle from stock.

[Padgett]

Agree, only on order from factory will you get the other extras like HD alternator, cooling, suspension. Towing package will appear on the window sticker and the build sheet.

[scrubjaysnest]

Originally Posted by Padgett

Nice thing about a factory towing package with a Class IV receiver is that you have things like a 10 gauge wire on a 30A fuse from main power & similar ground connector to the Bargman and 150A or greater alternator.

The towing package often sounds expensive until you see all of the upgrades it includes.

Our 2008 Dodge P/U has the factory tow package; the wiring to the Bargman wasn't 10 AWG it was 22 AWG. Our 2005 Grand Cherokee on the other had is 10 AWG so go figure

[Padgett]

Now I guess I need to assemble a connector and see what kind of load I can put on the Bargman. Wires are different gauges but at least two feel like 10-12ga.

Not a high priority.