Roof slope?

[Pele2048]

Originally Posted by br2_wdc

If you did purchase this unit, you are much braver then me; I spent 2 months going through this site, getting as much information as I could before I even started looking!

Yeah, I only found this site after I was looking at the unit.

I HAD been looking at canvas based popups (Coleman, Fleetwood, etc.) for a few years and sitting on the fence about even buying one due to mold/mildew concerns and some models having the tendency for the roof to delaminate.

I also wanted A/C AND an indoor shower, which is difficult to find in a popup.
But I wanted a sub 3500 lb trailer and I didn't want a full-size travel trailer parked in the driveway.

I wish I had better news, but from the pictures that is not a trivial issue. It appears that something heavy somehow dropped down on the roof. It looks like there is structural damage to the roof itself, and I am not sure it can be repaired at all, let alone easily. Also, any sort of drips from that center channel is not ideal, but with some patience and hard work they can be fixed; many articles here on the site can walk you through it.

I don't see any creases in the interior aluminum skin or cracks in the outer vinyl skin. I feel I should be able to repair it.

I'm an experienced DIYer. I've stripped my entire kitchen down to studs, rewired it (Replaced aluminum wiring with copper), replumbed it (copper), drywalled, tiled, cabinets and granite countertops... I've done electrical panel replacements and framework within my houses as well.

I'm also an experienced mechanic. I've rebuilt engines and transmissions, done suspension and brake work. My day job is an Electrical Engineer.

Did you purchase directly from the previous owner or an RV dealer? What did they say about the roof issues? Also, did you go through the pre-purchase checklist available on this site where you check all the major systems: gas furnace, fridge, stove, bathroom, and hot water heater?

Yes, all the systems worked. Original Norcold fridge runs in all three modes, Water heater has been replaced and fires up. Stove and oven light up and burn clean. Bathroom works as far as water flowing... I didn't drop a deuce in the toilet or anything, but I filled it with water and let it flow with the flush button.

One last thing I noticed is you are still a "trial" member, so if the purchase of this TM is a "done deal", then you MUST send $12 to become a full member on this site; you do not have access to everything you need to tackle any of these issues until you become a full member.

Done! $12 a year is reasonable.

[BrucePerens]

This might be a "live with it" thing rather than one you repair. I can think of a few ways to attempt to bend it back, but they probably aren't worth the risk of entirely trashing the shell.

I keep my TM under a 20x30 tarp in rainy season, about $60 from Harbor Freight. There's an Adco cover over that. This will be less convenient if you live where it rains year round. The tarp has lasted two years so far, I patched a few holes with gorilla tape on both sides. Same for the cover.

Some people warn that you can get mildew by using a tarp over your RV, I've not experienced any. The tarp is open at the bottom and air moves through it.

[Pele2048]

Originally Posted by BrucePerens

This might be a "live with it" thing rather than one you repair. I can think of a few ways to attempt to bend it back, but they probably aren't worth the risk of entirely trashing the shell.

I keep my TM under a 20x30 tarp in rainy season, about $60 from Harbor Freight. There's an Adco cover over that. This will be less convenient if you live where it rains year round. The tarp has lasted two years so far, I patched a few holes with gorilla tape on both sides. Same for the cover.

Some people warn that you can get mildew by using a tarp over your RV, I've not experienced any. The tarp is open at the bottom and air moves through it.

I found that the seller advertised the TrailManor that I bought on this site: http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=18014
I had no idea that it was for sale since February. I shoulda talked him down more. I found it on CraigsList.

It was only $4200. And it included some fairly expensive things like an Equal-i-zer weight distributing/sway control hitch. It also included a tarp and a 25 ft 10AWG extension cord with 30 amp connectors on the ends.

I figure the hitch retails for $400-500 and the cord and tarp should be good for another $100.

For the price of mid $3000's, I will be able to live with it, so long as it doesn't get water inside...

EDIT: Just noticed your signature at the bottom of your post...

73 de W3RPM

[HoMiPa]

As I said originally, mine is very similar, although not to the degree that I see daylight coming in between the back shell & front shell, as it appears in one of your photos.

I have no issue with leaks, now that I've sealed all the roof seams with Eternabond tape. However, I am aware that my rear shell is slightly concave, so I usually store it with the rear end lower than the front end. I also keep it tarped, have for several years, and have never had any issue with mold or mildew. I have zero doubt that mine is from snow load. After the initial damage, for two years I rigged up a framing system with 3" PVC as a frame (one for front shell, one for rear shell), laying on the roof, with 1" PVC arched over the top, after drilling holes in the 3" PVC to stick them into. Then tarped the whole thing. I didn't do that this past winter. Not only that, I am remodeling, so I've removed most everything from inside. Lesson learned, I should have left the mattresses in place. Without the arched roof under the tarp, there was snow load again this past winter, and the rear shell pressed down enough (with no mattress in place to stop it), that the vertical side counter to the left of the kitchen sink, the one that the forward bathroom wall butts up against, ended up punching through the interior rear ceiling, in the shower area. Cosmetic damage only, and I'll seal it up with Eternabond tape, but as a warning, with your roof in the same condition as mine, I wouldn't close the trailer up without having the mattress in place.

[rvcycleguy]

That's unfortunate the seller didn't offer the known issues. I understand hindsight is forever, but the seller had to have known the trailer leaked and the roof compromised and had known roof issues. The picture he offered looking back towards the rear shell shows the face where the bag seal is is compromised and damaged. The exterior roof pictures show the center raised molding is missing all the way front to back. Looks like Eternabond tape running the length. Seller either did that or was there when he bought it. Whichever, disclosure was the best way to deal with a buyer. Sad....

[HoMiPa]

Originally Posted by rvcycleguy

The exterior roof pictures show the center raised molding is missing all the way front to back. Looks like Eternabond tape running the length. Seller either did that or was there when he bought it. Whichever, disclosure was the best way to deal with a buyer. Sad....

I agree that's Eternabond tape (or a similar type), running the length - it sure isn't the original seal. Mine is not bowed in as much, so my bag seal still seals fairly well. However, if that rear seal is facing the prevailing wind in a serious storm, I have no doubt I'll have leakage - which is why I keep it tarped. This one though, the bag seal isn't even touching the rear shell in the center....

Disclosure is required in some states - not sure if this would fall in within the parameters of the state disclosure laws, but might be worth checking into....

[Pele2048]

As I guessed, it sounds like a lot of weight was put on the rear shell. A couple extra-large guys, a snowload, or whatever. At this point, it doesn't really matter.

For an attempt at repair, I think I would
1. Open the front shell fully
2. Open the rear shell a couple inches
3. Climb inside over the hitch and propane area
4. Put a sturdy prop under the center of the rear shell, right at its front edge
5. Put some serious weight on the left and right edges of the rear shell, right at its front edge.
Perhaps it will bend back a bit toward the normal shape. Assuming it is an aluminum frame, this should be safe as long as you don't try to bend it too far. If it appears to be helping, proceed incrementally, but watch carefully to see if the aluminum skin is detaching from the frame.

Are there any known solvents that are NOT compatible with the KrystalKote Polyester on the outside of the TrailManor? Are there any recommended solvents for cleaning?

As always, check the Trailmanor Technical Library for questions like this. In this case, start here
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=12588

Bill

[Bill]

Not meaning to add to your discomfort, but your post #11 is a great example of why I really dislike online picture hosting sites. What I see in #11 are HUGE pictures - too huge to be of any use. If these pictures were hosted right here on the forum, I could fix them for you. I do this quite often. But since they are hosted on a third party site, I can't touch them. In the future, please consider shrinking your photos before posting them, and also posting them right here on the forum. It is easy!

Bill

[Pele2048]

Originally Posted by Pele2048

As I guessed, it sounds like a lot of weight was put on the rear shell. A couple extra-large guys, a snowload, or whatever. At this point, it doesn't really matter.

For an attempt at repair, I think I would
1. Open the front shell fully
2. Open the rear shell a couple inches
3. Climb inside over the hitch and propane area
4. Put a sturdy prop under the center of the rear shell, right at its front edge
5. Put some serious weight on the left and right edges of the rear shell, right at its front edge.
Perhaps it will bend back a bit toward the normal shape. Assuming it is an aluminum frame, this should be safe as long as you don't try to bend it too far. If it appears to be helping, proceed incrementally, but watch carefully to see if the aluminum skin is detaching from the frame.

As always, check the Trailmanor Technical Library for questions like this. In this case, start here
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=12588

Bill

Wait, what?
I didn't write that.

[br2_wdc]

Originally Posted by Pele2048

Yes, all the systems worked. Original Norcold fridge runs in all three modes, Water heater has been replaced and fires up. Stove and oven light up and burn clean. Bathroom works as far as water flowing... I didn't drop a deuce in the toilet or anything, but I filled it with water and let it flow with the flush button.

Excellent news ... all the other systems are in working order, and you are clearly able to handle essentially any other issue.

Once you have full access, you'll see the vast knowledge base available, and with some searches I'm pretty sure you'll figure out if there is a fix for the roof structure or if you can fabricate something on your own.

To get you started on how the roof structure works before you get full access, I did a quick search on "roof fix", and thought the follow post may help; post is under the subject of "Trailmanor Exterior Shell Needs Repair" for hail damage:

My trail manor in Castle Rock, CO experienced some pretty bad hail damage. I know The Car Show in Colorado Springs recently closed its doors. Does anyone know of a business that can do this repair in the Denver area?

Thank you

Richard

Your best alternative might be not to fix it, except for the few dents that make the roof leak.

Does anyone know of a business that has ever repaired hail damage on a Trailmanor? I got mine as salvage because the insurer wrote off a hail-damaged TM as totalled, and I believe Tom Clarkson got his the same way. Other folks here have bought their TM back from the insurer after it was totaled for hail damage.

The skin of a Trailmanor doesn't come off the way the skin of a conventional RV can, and conventional fiberglass repair doesn't work on it. The wall and roof panels are a laminated foam sandwich.

The alumium skin is coated with a polyester glaze called Krystal Kote which in general won't be replaced after any repainting operation. In theory a professional could spray it, but it's two-part and sets in 15 minutes in your spray gun if you're not careful.

I have a theory that a lightweight version of Bondo containing glass spheres filled with air could be used to fill dents, but I've not tested it yet.

BrucePerens

You can't replace the skin of a TM. As BrucePerens mentioned above, the walls and roof are formed by gluing the inside and outside metal skins to a foam-slab core. If you try to remove the skin, it will pull the core apart and destroy it.

The TM factory might be willing to replace the entire shell, but that is wildly expensive. That is why hail damage usually results in an insurance declaration of total loss.

Although I've not heard of anyone doing it, it seems to me that it might be possible to use something like an automotive dent-puller, to grab the skin at the site of the damage, and pull it back out until it is nearly flat with the surrounding skin. You still have to seal the hole where the dent puller was used, so I'm not sure you are ahead of the game.

Bottom line is probably what has been posted above. Seal the dimples so they don't leak. Then call that good enough, and enjoy your TM.
Bill

Welcome aboard and with this site and your skills, I am certain you'll find some options for the roof.