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Old 03-10-2019, 08:51 PM   #1
bheisser
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Default lift arm pins removal

Lift arm "pins" ..the pins or bolt that pass though the lift arms from the exterior to the interior, can they just be pulled out and replaced , do you need to support the shell, and if you take it out is in one of those things that are near impossible to get back in?
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Old 03-10-2019, 09:04 PM   #2
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They fall out on their own. Just don't let too many do so at once. I was able to replace one easily enough. Didn't need a helper.
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Old 03-10-2019, 10:45 PM   #3
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With the help of forum member larryjb, I've had the pins out. As I recall, the pins are under tension (bearing a load) only during the time that the shell is being raised or lowered. Once the shell is fully open, the weight comes off the pins and you can remove them. When I pulled the pins, I immediately stuck a hefty Phillips screwdriver through the entire hole and all the internal parts, just to keep all the pieces in alignment. This made it easier to put the pins back in. I suggest doing only one at a time.

Bear in mind that the pin is actually what is called a "shoulder bolt". You can look it up, but basically a shoulder bolt has a short threaded portion near the tip, and is unthreaded and smooth for the rest of its length. The thread size, and the length of the threaded and unthreaded portions, are critical, so don't plan to change them.

I first found the right-size shoulder bolt at some on-line hardware supplier (McMaster-Carr? Zorro Tools?) but they were about $8 each. Fortunately, my local Ace Hardware store had just doubled its size, and in one of the new hardware trays - there they were! Less than $3 each, as I recall.

If I can ask, why do you want to replace them?

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Old 03-11-2019, 08:17 AM   #4
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Just make sure you do it with the shell up. I cut a 2x4 and put it on a jack to hold the shell up. After doing i,t I think Bruce is right, you might not need any support?? If you just do one at a time you migh not need any support.

But I would still have the 2x4 on a jack holding it.
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Old 03-11-2019, 01:11 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill View Post
Ace Hardware
Yes, Ace Hardware will have stainless shoulder bolts and the accompanying flange nuts. I don't know if they are English or metric. Stainless fender washers are also called for, to keep from tearing out the hole. Probably half a dozen bolts and nuts are in stock, and they don't restock frequently. You can reach out the vinyl flap from inside, and work on both sides of the fastener at once. Dab on a little Locktite blue or purple, never red because it is so strong that it requires heat to disassemble. The Locktite will keep vibration and movement from undoing the thread.
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Old 03-11-2019, 01:35 PM   #6
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Bill you asked why, exactly what Bruce mentioned I would like to put a washer between the bolt and the trailer, one was a little loose and seemed to enlarge the opening
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Old 03-11-2019, 03:31 PM   #7
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I found that if I put a standard fender washer on the inside, and another on the outside, the combined thickness was enough that I couldn't thread the acorn nut back on. You can find thin fender washers, maybe in a decorative section of the store (lamp parts?). I don't know if a flange nut would be better. What is really needed is a shoulder bolt with an extra 1/4 inch on the threaded portion, but I couldn't find one.

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Old 03-12-2019, 09:20 PM   #8
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Bill what was the length of the pin or the shoulder bolt desired
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Old 03-12-2019, 10:26 PM   #9
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I've been looking for my records - can't find 'em. Larryjb might have the info. I'll post if they turn up.

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Old 03-14-2019, 03:50 PM   #10
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1.75 total. 1.5 shaft
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a search of amazon finds a 1-3/4 legnth
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