Rock Guard Cracked on bottom

[Kidkraz]

I've had that happened to me, I find that I didn't go to a larger drill to cut the cap head off. I've had to either try to file the head of the cap off, or abuse it enough with pliers to get it to come off/out. It's frustrating when it happens.

[Bill]

If you can get to the back, you can punch it out. I would use a blunted nail.

Bill

[DanSTL]

Update:moldeable pellets failed…they are a lot of fun and likely will be useful for other projects but no luck on the guard as they don’t bond well to it. I’ve replaced missing grommet, drilled holes to stop cracks and cut brass sheet into strips and will rivet guard together at cracks. first going to apply 3M 5200 to cracks and then the brass strips with rivets .

[ShrimpBurrito]

I've always thought a good approach to repairing that crack is to soak some fiberglass cloth in some epoxy and lay it over the crack on the inside of the rock guard. But I've not had an opportunity to try it.

Dave

[DanSTL]

Thanks, I’ve decided to try West GFlex 2 part epoxy with fiberglass cloth instead of 5200

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by DanSTL

Thanks, I’ve decided to try West GFlex 2 part epoxy with fiberglass cloth instead of 5200

If you use f/G cloth, sand the area well with 80G sand paper. Cut 3-pieces of cloth about 4" long, each overlapping the one before (set aside). Apply a thin coat of resin on the sanded surface. Put a piece of F/G cloth (the smallest one) on the sanded surface (enough to overlap the edge of the guard about 1/4"). Use a cheap paint brush to apply just enough polyester resin to wet the cloth. Lay piece #2 on top of the 1st and wet it out with that brush. Then lay the 3rd over the second. Each layer should overlap the previous buy about 1/2". Just tap the tip of the brush on the third piece to soak up some of the resin from previous layers, then just add enough resin to wet the last layer and and brush down any arrant strands. The key is to not use too much resin. Just enough to wet the cloth. The strength of the F/G is in the cloth, NOT the resin. Too much resin will weaken the patch.

Wait about 15 minutes for the layup to start to set and the resin is still a little tacky. Take a razor blade and trim off the F/G that is overhanging the edge.

Always do F/G work in temps between 65* and 80* F. Never below 60*. The warmer the temps, the shorter the dry time and the less time you have to work. 75* is ideal.

You will only need about 3oz of resin. No need for anything fancy. Bondo makes a small size of repair resin. Be sure to follow the instructions for mixing catalyst. Each type of resin is unique.

https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Ad...0&sr=8-15&th=1

[DanSTL]

Thanks, great info but I applied last night and heated garage to about 55-60 (was operating under g flex min temp of 40) for a couple of hours with low of about 42 last night.

What happens to fiberglass strips I applied at that temp? Garage is 48 this am and heating now to speed up curing so I can proceed to riveting on brass strips .

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by DanSTL

Thanks, great info but I applied last night and heated garage to about 55-60 (was operating under g flex min temp of 40) for a couple of hours with low of about 42 last night.

What happens to fiberglass strips I applied at that temp? Garage is 48 this am and heating now to speed up curing so I can proceed to riveting on brass strips .

As long as the garage, product and panel were above 50* during application, it will cure. It will just take longer. 40* is pretty low but it looks like it has adhesion.

I wouldn't put any stress on it for a few days. Maybe take it in the house.

[DanSTL]

Thanks, great idea will bring it inside and I’ll delay riveting for several days ! Will post results

[DanSTL]

It’s feeling pretty dry but still has a subtle tacky feel. Hopefully over several days it will completely cure, assuming there should be no tackiness at all?