Main gas line problem

When at the camground I was sitting and noticed a line looping low below the gas tanks on my 2619 hitch. Yup it was the gas main and had been scrapped badly by the road. It is abraided for about a 1 1/2 - 2 inch length.
Has anyone ever had these repaired? Or does the whole line need to be replaced( that looks expensive). If repair is possible do we need to take it to a Trailmanor dealer or just to a propane expert.
Honestly last year we turned on the gas to check the stove after we bought the unit, haven't needed it since, but we are heading north in a couple of weeks and may need gas heater.

Thanks Janet and George.

[Wavery]

Originally Posted by JANETT

When at the camground I was sitting and noticed a line looping low below the gas tanks on my 2619 hitch. Yup it was the gas main and had been scrapped badly by the road. It is abraided for about a 1 1/2 - 2 inch length.
Has anyone ever had these repaired? Or does the whole line need to be replaced( that looks expensive). If repair is possible do we need to take it to a Trailmanor dealer or just to a propane expert.
Honestly last year we turned on the gas to check the stove after we bought the unit, haven't needed it since, but we are heading north in a couple of weeks and may need gas heater.

Thanks Janet and George.

I picture would help greatly.

If it is what I think it is, it may be easy to just cut the copper tubing just before and just after the scrape and install a new piece with compression unions. You can get them at any hardware store.

You may even be able to cut out the bad piece (use a tubing cutter) and just pull the 2 cut ends together and use 1 union (if there is enough slack in the tube). Just be sure not to kink the tubing anywhere, if you pull on it. If it was hanging down, My guess would be that you may have plenty of slack to just cut out the bad part and install one union.

Don't tighten the fittings too tight. When you are finished, mix a glass of water with 5-10% dish soap (not dishwasher detergent). Turn on the propane and spill the soapy water over the fitting and check for bubbles (the bubbles will be big, growing and obvious if there's a leak). If you get bubbles, tighten the fittings 1/4 turn and check again.

Here's a "How-to":
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/cutjoincopperpipe
Read the section on "Compression fittngs". It's really VERY simple. If you don't have a tubing cutter, they are about $5 at the hardware store that sells the fittings.

You'll need to bring the cut piece of tubing to the h/w store to get the correct size fittings (and tubing, if needed).



You just need a small tubing cutter:

You can splice in a new section to replace the damaged section. You do not need a TM dealer. Any TT dealer, a propane facility ( not the local fill only kind) or just a licensed plumber.

And you should probably figure out why it was hanging so low and fix that too. Maybe some of the propane pipe hangers have come loose?

[B_and_D]

When we were working on the TM one time, we cut into the gas line, it was kind of a metal sheathed rubber line. I took it off and took it to Coast Propane (which is on my way to work). They fabricated a new hose for us. It wasn't that expensive, maybe $20 - $30 bucks.

[TM Pilot]

I know this is an old thread (and JANETT and harveyrv haven't logged in since mid 2013), but there are not many threads on this subject and with all due respect to some who have already posted, I wanted to share some concerns I have. However, I'm no expert on this subject.

If there is damage to a section of the soft copper propane gas tubing under the trailer, I would recommend replacing the entire line. If one wants to splice the damaged section using a non-permanent/mechanical connection, I would not recommend using compression fittings because the road vibrations can eventually cause a gas leak with this type of fitting (compression fitting don't like vibrations, especially on soft copper. And it's usually not recommended to even use compression fittings in gas applications). Instead I would use flare fittings (requires special tools) for a better seal. Unless I'm mistaken, the factory installed tee fittings under trailer are the flare type. Here is a good video about flaring soft copper tubing:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhiQNUBAIzQ

Here is a good article about working with copper tubing: http://www.g-w.com/pdf/sampchap/9781566379656_ch03.pdf

If there are any doubts about one's ability to safely repair any part of the propane system, hire a professional please or you may get burned.

[scrubjaysnest]

Originally Posted by TM Pilot

I know this is an old thread (and JANETT and harveyrv haven't logged in since mid 2013), but there are not many threads on this subject and with all due respect to some who have already posted, I wanted to share some concerns I have. However, I'm no expert on this subject.

If there is damage to a section of the soft copper propane gas tubing under the trailer, I would recommend replacing the entire line. If one wants to splice the damaged section using a non-permanent/mechanical connection, I would not recommend using compression fittings because the road vibrations can eventually cause a gas leak with this type of fitting (compression fitting don't like vibrations, especially on soft copper. And it's usually not recommended to even use compression fittings in gas applications). Instead I would use flare fittings (requires special tools) for a better seal. Unless I'm mistaken, the factory installed tee fittings under trailer are the flare type. Here is a good video about flaring soft copper tubing:

Here is a good article about working with copper tubing: http://www.g-w.com/pdf/sampchap/9781566379656_ch03.pdf

If there are any doubts about one's ability to safely repair any part of the propane system, hire a professional please or you may get burned.

Just a note here; copper gas lines are not soft copper but annealed copper which is a hard copper. The proper repair is a compression fitting such as swag lock. Proper flaring is a skill most may not have, especially when working with annealed copper.
A professional may be your best bet for repairing.

[TM Pilot]

Originally Posted by scrubjaysnest

Just a note here; copper gas lines are not soft copper but annealed copper which is a hard copper.

What's your point?

Hard copper tubing that has been annealed (a process that makes hard copper flexible) is referred to as "soft copper" tubing in the industry. The PDF article I linked to above explains this on page 1. The flexible copper propane gas tubing used on the TM's are therefore rightly referred to as "soft copper." However, if you personally prefer the terms rigid instead of hard and flexible instead of soft - that's fine. But down at the hardware store, they distinguish copper tubing as either hard or soft. Thanks, but I don't think your comment has any relevance to this discussion.

If anyone is curious how copper tubing is manufactured, he is an article:
http://www.copper.org/publications/n...owdo_tube.html

Originally Posted by scrubjaysnest

The proper repair is a compression fitting such as swag lock. Proper flaring is a skill most may not have, especially when working with annealed copper.
A professional may be your best bet for repairing.

Compression fittings can be used on soft copper tubing. But not in propane gas applications (especially the ones on wheels going 65mph over the potholes)! It's flare fittings or brazing only. No soldering either. Save the compression fittings and soldering for things like water applications when using soft copper tubing.

The Copper Tube Handbook http://www.columbiapipe.com/document...handbook1.aspx


As great as these forums are, please remember folks that there are some well intentioned people who will do the equivalent of recommending you install car parts on your Cessna 172. Be safe, please.

[scrubjaysnest]

Originally Posted by TM Pilot

What's your point?

Hard copper tubing that has been annealed (a process that makes hard copper flexible) is referred to as "soft copper" tubing in the industry. The PDF article I linked to above explains this on page 1. The flexible copper propane gas tubing used on the TM's are therefore rightly referred to as "soft copper." However, if you personally prefer the terms rigid instead of hard and flexible instead of soft - that's fine. But down at the hardware store, they distinguish copper tubing as either hard or soft. Thanks, but I don't think your comment has any relevance to this discussion.

If anyone is curious how copper tubing is manufactured, he is an article:
http://www.copper.org/publications/n...owdo_tube.html




Compression fittings can be used on soft copper tubing. But not in propane gas applications (especially the ones on wheels going 65mph over the potholes)! It's flare fittings or brazing only. No soldering either. Save the compression fittings and soldering for things like water applications when using soft copper tubing.

The Copper Tube Handbook http://www.columbiapipe.com/document...handbook1.aspx


As great as these forums are, please remember folks that there are some well intentioned people who will do the equivalent of recommending you install car parts on your Cessna 172. Be safe, please.

My point, after 20 years of working with tubing is the same as yours; better know what you are doing. Hard gas line copper tubing is very difficult to properly flare. This results in leaks; over torquing the nut to stop the leak and eventually cracked tubing.
The bottom line is if you work on the gas lines you had better know what you are doing. This is not a job for most of us.