Brake Test

Usually I just check the trailer brakes and their setting with the Prodigy lever at each start up. But lately I've also been checking the brake drum temperatures (by touch) after braking to a stop. A day or so into our current trip, I noticed that one brake drum wasn't getting hot. This was NOT evident when just pulling on the Prodigy brake lever.

That night, I jacked up that side of the trailer and pulled the brake-away pin. Sure enough, the wheel didn't lock up. After a little cautious probing and tugging, one of the wires from the brake drum fell off. Apparently it had been pinched at the plastic fitting leading into the drum.

After a stop for supplies, I pulled the hub and spliced in a replacement. So far it's working, but I'll probably do something more permanent once we return to home-base in Ontario. Not sure if I'll replace that pinch fitting.

Anyway, my suggestion is to temperature check regularly, as that's the only simple way to tell if both your brakes are working.

[Bill]

That is my big gripe with the Prodigy, and I have expressed it to their engineers. The Prodigy, like most brake controllers, reads out the voltage that is applied to the brakes. But the brake magnets are not voltage-activated - they are current-activated. You can apply 12 volts all day to an open magnet, and nothing will happen.

My old Jordan Ultima controller (may it rest in peace) reported the current that was flowing through the brakes. If you had had a Jordan, Brulaz, you would have seen only half the normal current, and you would have known immediately that something was wrong. You were lucky you used the hand test and found it. Most folks don't, and wouldn't have found it. Sad to say, I don't know an easy way to discover that a brake is out using a Prodigy or any other common controller.

True story. When my TM was new, my wife and I were coming down the Coronado Highway, US191 from Alpine to Morenci, AZ. This scenic highway is full of haripin turns, and often extremely steep. Most of it posted at 10 mph, and guard rails are often non-existent. The most exciting stretch is about 10 miles north of Morenci (look at a satellite map!) At one point, we came through an almost vertical hairpin turn, and there was a cow was standing in the road! I stood on the brake pedal, and we stopped, but sluggishly. My Jordan instantly told me why.

I didn't mention it to my wife until we got to the bottom, but she was very pleased and surprised by how slowly and cautiously I was driving the rest of that road.

Bill

Makes me wonder how the IBC in my 2008 GMC 2500HD works.

A quick web search suggests that the Jordan was sold and is no longer available. Too bad. Guess it's the finger temp test for now at least.

Also I'm using engine braking extensively for the long downhills. But in an emergency, you gotta have those brakes working, especially when your truck was as over-loaded as ours was (moving the daughter across country).

Originally Posted by brulaz

A quick web search suggests that the Jordan was sold and is no longer available. Too bad. Guess it's the finger temp test for now at least.

Also I'm using engine braking extensively for the long downhills. But in an emergency, you gotta have those brakes working, especially when your truck was as over-loaded as ours was (moving the daughter across country).

Engine braking is interesting in my 2008 GMC 2500HD gasser. When in tow/haul mode it will automagically down shift the 6 speed automatic transmission.

Just in case I am having a senior moment and don't think of it.

IMO it works pretty well. Some people might not like it.

[mjlaupp]

Originally Posted by brulaz

A quick web search suggests that the Jordan was sold and is no longer available. Too bad. Guess it's the finger temp test for now at least.

The TruControl brake controller by Hensley Mfg. provides amp readings:
http://www.brake-controller.com/index.html
Edit: So does Hayes:
http://www.hayesbc.com/

[Bill]

Nuts! Wish I had known that before I harangued the Tekonsha guys.

The Hensley controller looks great. If it is like the Hensley hitch, though, it may be pretty expensive. One site has them for $250, as opposed to $110 or so for the Prodigy. Still ...

Some of the Hayes controllers look real good, too. Some of them are time delay controllers of course, so some care is needed.

Thanks for the update, Mike.

Bill

Two years later and a new Truck with built in brake controller, but still this problem. Apparently the built-in controller only displays Volts, so I doubt it will detect whether one of the brakes is missing or not.

I was thinking of installing a small ammeter in the cab, but couldn't find one that would fit in any existing openings and wasn't about to do any major surgery on a new truck.

But with my new clamp meter a compromise is available. Whenever I check the taillights (usually before every trip), I will also use the clamp meter to measure the current flow in the blue brake line. On the Elkmont that brake line is easily accessible (maybe Too accessible) from the side of the trailer. And when I pull the emergency brake plug, there's 7.3A on the line. About what you expect for both brakes working. Working both brakes with the pedal should be similar. And so, if I should ever read 3.6A ...

This won't give me instantaneous readings while driving, but at least I won't be traveling half way across the continent with only one brake again.

A word of caution
I learned due to a failure that the control arm on a Prodigy supplies the voltage from the 12 volt wire connected to unit. This is different from the wire that is connected to the brake lights which activates the device that determines how much voltage/current to supply to the trailer brake.
I had a wire come loose from the F150 connections and noted that my trailer was pushing the truck rather than helping in the stop. I reached over and pulled the lever and it immediately stopped pushing. Thank God not an emergency. I did call customer service and they confirmed my findings.

DO NOT just flip the lever to test your brakes on setup, you need to use the brake pedal for a true test, any speed over 15 seems to give good indications of operation. I have an inexpensive digital infrared thermometer I use for checking brakes/bearings and tires, no dirty fingers! http://www.harborfreight.com/infrare...ter-93984.html for $19.99 ( I actually bought it for setting my radio control airplane's engine for best mixture)

Originally Posted by clown9644

... DO NOT just flip the lever to test your brakes on setup, you need to use the brake pedal for a true test, ...

The Ford's built in brake controller tells me when a trailer is connected, or disconnected. I *think* it uses the brake line for this, and, if so, should tell me if if no brakes are connected.

But anyway, we'll be testing the brake line the same way and at the same time we check the brake lights: by pressing the brake pedal. If the lights don't light or there's not 7A or so on the trailer brake line, then there's trouble.