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02-13-2011, 12:29 PM
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#21
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,115
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As I recall, the furnace is bolted solidly to the floor. I wonder if it could be remounted with some rubber donuts, for example, to lessen the vibration that is coupled into the floor. The water pump responds to this treatment ...
Bill
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02-13-2011, 12:36 PM
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#22
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barb&Tim
Yes, i am aware of that and i have the NT-20SE which is the direct vent type(noisier). I am more concerned with the vibration (which could contribute to the noise) rather than the noise itself. After looking at the user and a installation manual for the NT-20SE I see that the motor drives both an impeller, room air (fan) and a wheel, combustion air (squirrel cage type fan).
I got this (attached) snippet from a Suburban service manual (not specific to the NT-20SE)
Tim
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If you're getting noticeable vibration, you may have debris in the outside air (squirrel cage) fan.
It the vibration is coming from the flat aluminum fan on the fresh air side, it would be very tough to balance that fan. I just don't know how you would do it other than to put it on a high speed drill motor (with a makeshift shaft) and play with bending the blades until the vibration is gone. Otherwise buying a new one may be in order but those fans are very flimsy aluminum and I can imagine that they could be easily bent in storage and shipping, leaving you with the same or worse problem.
I don't think there is any way to overcome the natural loudness of that aluminum fan though. If you find a way, we would all be interested in hearing about it, I'm sure. When I took my furnace apart to replace wiring that a rat had chewed, that fan was clean as a whistle (6-year-old trailer). There is no noticeable vibration but the fan sounds like a 747 getting ready for take-off (slight exaggeration... ).
Keep us posted how you do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
As I recall, the furnace is bolted solidly to the floor. I wonder if it could be remounted with some rubber donuts, for example, to lessen the vibration that is coupled into the floor. The water pump responds to this treatment ...
Bill
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That's not a bad idea Bill but the front (where it comes through the cabinetry) would have to be cushioned as well. That could easily be done with weather stripping or as part of the "sound deadener" installation.
__________________
TrailManor Elkmont
640W solar- 230AH LiFeP04 Battery
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02-13-2011, 12:54 PM
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#23
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
As I recall, the furnace is bolted solidly to the floor. I wonder if it could be remounted with some rubber donuts, for example, to lessen the vibration that is coupled into the floor. The water pump responds to this treatment ...
Bill
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Interesting idea
By the way, If anyone needs the Installation Manual for the NT-20SE, here it is.
Tim
__________________
Previous owners of a great 2010 [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] TM2720SL.
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02-13-2011, 12:58 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
As I recall, the furnace is bolted solidly to the floor. I wonder if it could be remounted with some rubber donuts, for example, to lessen the vibration that is coupled into the floor. The water pump responds to this treatment ...
Bill
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That solution may bring the intake and exhaust tube out of alignment with the heater. I was told by Suburban that it is very important that they line up with the furnace.
Just my 2 cents.
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02-13-2011, 04:29 PM
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#25
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Big Bend area, Florida
Posts: 2,120
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Yea they also tell you don't put on a mud dubber screen either. FWIW another 2 cents
__________________
Axis 24.1 E 450 chassis, 6 spd tranny. GVWR 14500# GVCWR 22000 # GW(scales) 12400 #
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
mods: 2- 100 watt solar panels, on roof, 300 watts portable
“They who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.” Benjamin Franklin
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02-13-2011, 05:34 PM
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#26
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cochise
That solution may bring the intake and exhaust tube out of alignment with the heater. I was told by Suburban that it is very important that they line up with the furnace.
Just my 2 cents.
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Good point but the unit is raised ~1" off the floor in the front by sitting on the cabinet frame and they have a corresponding wood spacer under the rear.
I still think that a sound absorbing material in the cabinet is a good idea. I really don't think that eliminating the noise that comes out of the heater is going to be feasible. However, absorbing that noise may be.
__________________
TrailManor Elkmont
640W solar- 230AH LiFeP04 Battery
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02-13-2011, 05:38 PM
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#27
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 605
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We'll consider all of this once the foam (which is fire rated) has arrived but just for the record . . .
"I have been a fool for lesser things."
Billy Joel
For the Longest Time (I think ;-)
Malinda
__________________
'06 2619
Gene & Malinda, Delilah & Koko
'12 Toyota Tundra 4.6 V8 Tow package - Leer XL
Thule for our tandem Hobie Kayak :-)
120w Solar Panel - 2.5" lift 15" Marathons
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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02-21-2011, 02:17 PM
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#28
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 605
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So, you all can say, "I told you so" now. We installed the foam on the largest wall by the door and checked the dB levels. Not impressive . . . So we added a piece on the front, on the door side. Still not impressive. Then tried some on the front on the other side of the vent and that actually seemed to increase the noise level. It seems there is plenty of insulation on top by the seat cushion and we weren't really willing to install something that could fall down on the heater. We really don't care about how much noise exits the outside wall. We already have the storage area lined with memory foam. So, we left it at the first two pieces. The adhesive on the foam was really, really not all that but we had some leftover magic tape from the installation of our solar panels so we used some of that just to be safe.
We put our indoor/outdoor thermometer sensor in the heater compartment while it ran for about an hour. It was 24 degrees this morning and the TM was 33 when we turned the heater on. By the time it got up to 70, the heater compartment was a little over 90 degrees. I could hold my hand anywhere on the heater itself with no discomfort. The vent into the living space however was extremely hot so I would be more concerned about it than the heater itself.
Still, that 30 dB increase when that beast is running was worth a try.
Malinda
__________________
'06 2619
Gene & Malinda, Delilah & Koko
'12 Toyota Tundra 4.6 V8 Tow package - Leer XL
Thule for our tandem Hobie Kayak :-)
120w Solar Panel - 2.5" lift 15" Marathons
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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02-21-2011, 05:58 PM
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#29
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Guest
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ah..... I don't mean to be rude, but as a musician I use ear plugs often. The orange foam ones are great when you sleep. You could tear them in half if they stick out too much when you sleep. You can get a box of them for cheap, and they work great.
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02-21-2011, 06:06 PM
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#30
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berginc4
ah..... I don't mean to be rude, but as a musician I use ear plugs often. The orange foam ones are great when you sleep. You could tear them in half if they stick out too much when you sleep. You can get a box of them for cheap, and they work great.
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Ha! That is plan D! B is the bathroom fan which keeps the bathroom plumbing from freezing as a bonus and C is various Sleepmakers on my Iphone
Malinda
__________________
'06 2619
Gene & Malinda, Delilah & Koko
'12 Toyota Tundra 4.6 V8 Tow package - Leer XL
Thule for our tandem Hobie Kayak :-)
120w Solar Panel - 2.5" lift 15" Marathons
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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