Installing a Thetford Curve

[Riwright]

I recently removed the Thetford Electramagic and installed another Thetford product, the "Curve."

Photo album of the install:

http://photobucket.com/albums/rr297/...t/Public/Curve


Thetford's product page:

http://www.thetford.com/HOME/PRODUCT...6/Default.aspx

A couple of videos:
http://youtu.be/w0lJ6FbmdCM
http://youtu.be/RwNFB6NVGf4


It is similar to the Thetford Porta Potti in operation. It holds 4 gallons of fresh water and 5.5 gallons in the black tank.

There are two parts to the unit. The top part consists of the seat, the bowl and an integrated fresh water tank. There is a button that operates a battery powered flush pump. The bottom part is the black tank. It has a blade valve that separates the black tank and the bowl. There is a spout that is used to dump the waste and a button to release air to let the black tank empty smoothly.

It holds 4 gallons of fresh water and 5,5 gallons of black.

There is no connection to the dump valve below the trailer. When the toilet becomes full you remove the top part and set it in the tub. You then walk the black tank to a permanent toilet and dump. Similar to a cassette toilet in operation.

Since the entire unit comes out, it is easy to clean. You can put it in the yard and hose it down if you like.

You will need:
3/4 plywood at least 16 X 19 (used to make a riser)
Kilz spray sealer/primer
Grey spray paint
Sandable and paintable wood filler
Coarse, medium and fine sandpaper - sandpaper drums that fit a drill are nice or you can use a wood block
Jigsaw with a fine blade
Carpenter's pencil
Sharp knife
3" plastic test cap (I didn't use a black rubber one, it stuck up too much)
Silicon adhesive
Grey caulking
Rubber Mallet
Drill bits
Drill
Thetford Curve
Thetford Hold Down plate for the Curve
A bucket of chicken

To install you first need to remove the old toilet. Study Bill's document, it is a good guide. The only thing I ran into was the little wedges were installed backwards. Study the doc and feel around and you'll see which way yours are facing.

I was concerned about releasing an unspeakable evil that must remain sealed for all time when removing the old toilet. The Internet said to sacrifice a small bird. I was unable to catch one. I bought a bucket of chicken. It seemed to do the trick.

Seal off the old toilet flange with a plastic test cap and some silicon. Cap off the old wires and spray paint the marks on the back wall (Rustoleum Antique White). Remove the closet bolts that are sticking up. Remove the plastic piece that keeps the foot of the old toilet stable.

Cut a piece of 3/4 plywood to a 16 X 19 rectangle. You want something that covers the entire area where the toilet might go. Set the plywood into place and bang hard with a rubber mallet. The screws for the toilet flange will make marks in the plywood.

Using the marks as a guide cut out a hole for the flange. Put the plywood back in place and drop it over the flange.

Put the hold-down plate on the bottom of the toilet. Fit the toilet into position and mark the position of the hold-down plate on the plywood with a carpenter's pencil.

Position is important. The lever for the blade valve is on the bathtub side. There is a toilet paper holder there if you want to use it (I didn't see much use for it.) There is a latch that separates the two halves in the back. Put the toilet far enough out from the wall to get to it.

The toilet needs to be a little to the right (away from the tub) as you face it. Don't center it over the flange, you won't be able to operate the blade valve. Don't put it so far away from the tub that the bathtub side of the toilet is not well supported or the hole for the flange is exposed.

Pull the plywood up. Score the plywood with a knife to minimize splintering. Cut out the plywood with a jigsaw using a fine blade. Rough sand the edges and make sure the plywood is the same shape as the plate.

Take the wood filler and smear it over the edges of the plywood. Let it dry and sand it very smooth with fine sandpaper.

Remember that only the very front part really shows so focus your efforts there.

Paint the plywood with at least two coats with Kilz sealer and primer. Get all surfaces and edges including the hole for the flange. You want to protect it from water as much as you can. Paint with gray spray paint, two coats.

Install the plywood riser and the hold-down plate using four screws long enough to penetrate well into the floor of the trailer.

Using a gray latex caulk, caulk the seam between the riser and the floor and the riser and the hold-down plate. Clean off any excess.

Once it all dries you're done.