refrigerator replacement

Okay guys I need some help... I have a 2007 TM2720 I need to replace the refrigerator and the service place is way to expensive. It has a norcold in it now and I am not opposed to putting in a new Norcold or Dometic. What 3 way models will fit in with little or no modifications? I am handy and the guys at the service shop said I should be able to do it myself.

Can anyone give me a replacement model number? And some advise.

PS; I saw a newer TM2720 at Crestview RV in Georgetown TX yesterday...

PC

[tentcamper]

They are very costly. I would think they are around $800 new. I'm not sure, but with the next size fridge like a TT has. You can buy the refrigeration unit or back unit replacement kit, for about 40% of the cost of a new fridge?? So maybe there a replacement kit for these units??

I would think that either the Norcold or Dometic will fit since they booth compete for the same business with the trailer manufactures. My guess would be both manufactures units will slip into the same space with the propane hookup at the same location. I would get the unit specs "cubic ft" make and model and google the specs. Then do a google search on the cubic ft of the units out there and check the specs.

The refrigerators are sealed package units, and contain ammonia and a little hydrogen. I wouldn't suggest trying to service them, even if parts are available.

[Bill]

The Norcold N300.3 is a 3-way refrig. As noted in previous answers, a brand-new unit is expensive, probably around $1000. If you can live with a two-way unit (propane and shore power, but no 12-volt operation), it appears that $700 would cover it. In either case, there is shipping to be considered, and you install it yourself.

Assuming that your refrigerator is not cooling, and you have determined that the problem is a bad cooling unit, there are companies that rebuild the cooling unit. I have no experience with any of them, and don't know anyone who has, but it is worth considering. You can save a bit of money there, but it still isn't cheap. Make sure you choose one that replaces the tubing rather than patching it, and offers a warranty. You change out the cooling unit yourself, unless you can take your camper to their location, but it doesn't sound too tough. One such company that comes up in a Google search is rvcool.com.

Another possibility is an RV surplus or salvage place. As the name suggests, a "surplus" place deals in new equipment, so the prices will be near new. A "salvage" place removes equipment from wrecked RVs and the like, and resells it as used. A Google search will turn them up for you.

As noted above, you cannot rebuild the cooling system yourself. There appears to be no good news here. Good luck.

Bill

[Bill]

A little late, I know. But in one of the RV Business magazines recently, there was a spread on a company that rebuilds the cooling units. Check out Nordic Cooling Units (www.nordiccoolingunits.com). I have no connection with them, know nothing about them, but I pass this on in the FWIW category.

Bill

[rickst29]

Replacing with "just another Norcold" costs 700-800, if you shop very carefully. For about $200 more, I have ordered a compressor-based fridge, Dometic CR-1110 E/F-S, with a "space saver flange" -- the "space saver" seems to be necessary, in order to fit the Norcold N300.3 cutout dimensions. (The "width", and especially the "depth" dimension to the TM sidewall, to provide space for airflow during towing.)

Although I have had very accurate temperature control at ambient temps up to about 85F (using add-on equipment), the Norcold is unable to handle a temperature differential of more than 40F when running at full power. Around here, with high 90s common in midsummer, that's been allowing fridge temps of almost 60 degrees. Far too high for my beer.

This is advertised as a "marine division product", rather than an RV product. It is electric-only, 12V or 120V (a built-in 12V power supply converts 120V to 12V, without causing a lot of fan noise at the TM power converter.) I have 200W of solar installed (which provides 120W or less with my cheap "PWM" controller) available on sunny days, so the loss of propane heater mode isn't a significant problem.

[Padgett]

The bottom line is that an absorption unit (has propane and heaters) is not going to be as efficient as a compressor unit (120vac and 12vdc) like the Nova Kool R4500 that appears to fit the same cutout as the Norcold N300.3 and has 4.3 cu ft vs 2.7 cu ft.

Power: "Power draw is less than 30watts (2.1amps) when running: average power use will vary depending on ambient temp. how often the door is opened etc. but you can expect less than 20amp hours per day at 30C ambint temperature."

Also automatically switches to AC power when present. I would look closely into one if I needed a replacement.

[rickst29]

Originally Posted by Padgett

The bottom line is that an absorption unit (has propane and heaters) is not going to be as efficient as a compressor unit (120vac and 12vdc) like the Nova Kool R4500 that appears to fit the same cutout as the Norcold N300.3 and has 4.3 cu ft vs 2.7 cu ft.

Padgett, that's a pretty good looking catch. But your model, with 533mm nominal depth, would only have 10mm (1cm) of "free" air behind the compressor and condenser tubing, before running into the TM outside wall. Maybe not good for all-day-long towing situations, when the upper vent is blocked out by the TM front shell.

My Dometic is about the same size (115 vs. 122 liters), but sold for barely half of the list price shown on your web link. But maybe you can get BIG discounts from the price shown for Novo-Kool on that page. I'll SWAG that they use the same compressor, Danfoss BD35 - and the power figure which they quote is WAY too low for hot weather. Something closer to 5A (about 65 Watts @ 12.8V) is a more suitable working figure for hot days.

The possible "bad fit" problem with mine occurs in the Width dimension. Norcold nominal cutout dimensions are 756mm H, 520mm wide, and 543mm deep; My model is 755mm tall, 523 mm wide (3mm too much). But it's only 511mm depth, which should allow about 3cm of "free air" in the back.

[Padgett]

Apparently the Danfoss has several power settings and I suspect that is the lowest. Still a compressor is much more efficient than a burner.

3mm is about an 1/8", thought the US gave up on metrics, suspect all friges use the Danfoss and are constructed about the same way. If clearance at the rear is an issue, the R3800 (3.5 cu ft) is 3" shorter.

Padgett

[tentcamper]

Every once in a while there is someone that is parting out there camper. Also there are some camper junkyards around the nation. I would think you could get a used fridge for around $200??