Refrig not working on AC

[bayoubill]

When I inspected my 3326 at the dealer, they cooled the refirgerator using propane. The refrigerator cooled down in the two hours I inspected the unit.

When I stored the 3326 in my yard, I hooked it up to the 30 amp. The refrigerator on AC would not cool down in the two days that I tested on AC.

Suggestions?

[tentcamper]

Originally Posted by bayoubill

When I inspected my 3326 at the dealer, they cooled the refirgerator using propane. The refrigerator cooled down in the two hours I inspected the unit.

When I stored the 3326 in my yard, I hooked it up to the 30 amp. The refrigerator on AC would not cool down in the two days that I tested on AC.

Suggestions?

First check the breakers and that the fridge is plugged in. Turn the fridge control knob to 120V or the position with the electric plug. set the control know to 5 or the highest setting.

I would first test the 120 fridge by placing my hand over the chimney to fell for heat after it's been turned on for 5 minutes. If you have heat but no cooling re-check it operates on propane? These little fridges need a heat source to make the cooling operation work.

If I had no heat when connected to 120. Then test the 120V outlet that the fridge connects to. If I had 120V at the outlet I would then check that I had 120V going to the 120 heating coil when turned on to AC and max setting.

If I had 120V across the heating element and no heat, it sound like the element is bad. If I did not have voltage across the coil I would trouble shoot the switch and control circuit.

There may have been a reason the dealer ran the fridge on propane??? The good news, if it operated on propane the fridge cooling system is working and it's just a question of a heating element or 120V AC supply. I had a heating element go on a domtic fridge it cost around 100 and about 1.5 hours to pull the fridge and replace the element.

[commodor47]

One more place worth checking: in the lower refrigerator compartment you will find two inline fuses - a 3 amp and a 20 amp. Check to make sure they are both sound. Before checking each, I would disconnect shore power and pull the house battery fuse.

See attached thumbnail.

Dick

[ThePair]

Originally Posted by commodor47

One more place worth checking: in the lower refrigerator compartment you will find two inline fuses - a 3 amp and a 20 amp. Check to make sure they are both sound. Before checking each, I would disconnect shore power and pull the house battery fuse.

See attached thumbnail.

Dick

I've had that 3A AC fuse blow at least 3x, so it's something I check every time I set up, now. Got one of those proximity pens that let you touch a wire to see if there's AC in it. Once you know which wires to check, it becomes a quick thing to make sure everything is set up correctly.

[tentcamper]

So what are those fuses for?

[Padgett]

3A would be for the 110AC heater. Shouldn't see more than 1.5A so if blowing I would want to know why. 20A would be for the DC heater. The Norcold has three seperate and independant heater circuits (including the propane). Can lose any one and others will still work.

[tentcamper]

Padgett, Thank you. Are they blade or glass fuses? I will need to get some of these fusses.

[Padgett]

On my '06 they look like glass fuses. Think only blades are in converter.