Danger of shells popping up while in motion?

In order to preclude any possibility of this unfortunate outcome, I remove all 8 torsion bar bolts prior to towing and then reinstall them once I stop. Doesn't everybody do this? I admit it is kind of a pain at gas stations and roadside eateries but you can't be too safe

Originally Posted by M&M Hokie

In order to preclude any possibility of this unfortunate outcome, I remove all 8 torsion bar bolts prior to towing and then reinstall them once I stop. Doesn't everybody do this? I admit it is kind of a pain at gas stations and roadside eateries but you can't be too safe

Seriously?

I have had a corner latch disengage enroute, and I found it flapping around at my next stop. I now use keyed alike Master locks on the four corners, keeps the latches engaged, and prevents someone screwing around with them when I am away from the trailer. Only takes a second to lock it up. I use the Masters with the black plastic cover on them, the metals ones will leave scratch marks from moving around.

[BrucePerens]

Originally Posted by M&M Hokie

In order to preclude any possibility of this unfortunate outcome, I remove all 8 torsion bar bolts prior to towing and then reinstall them once I stop. Doesn't everybody do this? I admit it is kind of a pain at gas stations and roadside eateries but you can't be too safe

Not while the shells are down, you don't :-) There's quite a lot of energy stored in there.

Is it even safe to remove these bolts while the shells are up and locked? I would like to work on the rectangular bars, one of which has one of the holes for the latch broken out. The latch that you step in the stirrup to engage, not the corner latch.

[wbmiller3]

I am pretty sure this was a joke about overreacting to a perceived danger of little actual moment.

It was also posted 5 years ago.

[BrucePerens]

Originally Posted by wbmiller3

It was also posted 5 years ago.

Of course I'm a new TM owner so everything old is new :-)

I'd still like to know if I can work on those rectangular bars while the shell is up, and while I support the shell with something temporary, or if there is still a lot of force stored in the torsion bar even when the shell is up.

I vaguely recall a sticker saying to latch the door side first. Maybe next time. I used to have to sort of jump on it (the foot stirrup) to get it down.

[tentcamper]

I have had the sirup latch fail twice where the revit fails and the latch hand by the spring. Both times the spring held the part until I stopped. I now carry two ratcheting 15' straps in my TV that end to end can go around the trailer which would be a road fix. Have not had to use them yet. I also carry a few 1/4-20 by 3/4" stainless steel bolts, flat washers and locking SS nuts to repair the latch if they fail. The 1/4 bolt is what I found to be a very good fix since the revit is 1/4".

[LoveToCamp]

shebantam, you did not mention (or I missed it) if you were attempting to close the last latch when you had problems.

I was having trouble latching the door-side front shell when it was the last latch to close. Had the wife pull on the latch to get it to close. I subsequently tried closing it before I closed the street-side latch, and it worked great. I now latch the door- (curb-) side first, then latch the street-side.

[Redtail Cruiser]

I think each TM is unique, with their individual qwerks. I have a much easier time closing mine, when I close the street side first, then the curb side, with both front and back shells. Even after adjusting my torsion bars, it didn't change. You just need to experiment with yours, to see which way works easiest for you.