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10-18-2010, 08:18 AM
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#1
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Guest
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I also use the hard rubber chocks - I think they may have been designed for light aircraft. I chock both sides of the TM. They really grip the concrete. For a little added security I have a trailer wheel dock which is basically an orange plastic pad with a depression that cradles the jack wheel. I am confident that my TM won't move absent malicious mischief - and how can you guard against that? - camp2canoe
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10-18-2010, 11:17 AM
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#2
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Guest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camp2canoe
I am confident that my TM won't move absent malicious mischief - and how can you guard against that? - camp2canoe
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Since the TM frame is insulated from ground earth, it would e real tempting to use my 18 kilovolt neon sign transformer. Attach one side to the frame and the other to ground.
If you were standing bare footed on the ground you would likely get shocked before you even touched the TM.
But it might mess with the electronics.
Just a passing thought.
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10-20-2010, 07:40 AM
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#3
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PopBeavers
Since the TM frame is insulated from ground earth, it would e real tempting to use my 18 kilovolt neon sign transformer. Attach one side to the frame and the other to ground.
If you were standing bare footed on the ground you would likely get shocked before you even touched the TM.
But it might mess with the electronics.
Just a passing thought.
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Fun as this sounds, the innocent will get zapped along with the guilty, and even the guilty would probably seem innocent enough to create liabilities. So something like this would never actually be a good idea. I am impressed with the contents of your garage, though, and I'll bet you've got a lot of potential there you haven't told us about yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MisterP
An observation or opinion - stabilizing jacks are used to stabilize a level trailer to prevent rocking and unwanted motion. They are not intended to prevent a trailer, particularly a trailer on a non level surface, from moving. On my two TMs and I assume on all of them the stabilizer jacks are oriented across the trailer width not along its length. If the jacks are being used to hold the trailer on a hill they will roll under and fail if the trailer moves. Good chocks are your best bet whether they are made by you or someone else. Also if you take the time to level the trailer in your driveway it will be less likely to roll on you.
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This makes absolutely good sense to me. If you ever drive off with a jack still extended you'll discover that they crumple too easily to be real good stoppers (I haven't done this in a couple decades, but I had this adventure once with a too-hurried popup departure in the rain). While the jacks each provide some additional resistance, the tongue jack is by far the best one and is pretty good for holding the trailer in place. However, a trailer's tendency to roll is the same whether or not it's level.
__________________
2005 TrailManor 3023
2003 Toyota Highlander 220hp V6 FWD
Reese 1000# round bar Weight Distributing Hitch
Prodigy brake controller.
"It's not how fast you can go, it's how fast you can stop an RV that counts."
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10-20-2010, 11:00 AM
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#4
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,837
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I just bought a 2004 2720SL from a private party. The person that I bought it from has been storing the trailer on a steep sloped driveway for years. He just used the plastic chocks and the levelers down......no issues. See the pic below.
When he was showing us the trailer, there were 4 of us inside the trailer, walking around. I would have used the hard rubber chocks in this situation but he's gotten away with the cheap plastic ones (as evidenced in the pic).
__________________
TrailManor Elkmont
640W solar- 230AH LiFeP04 Battery
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10-19-2010, 07:13 PM
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#5
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Guest
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An observation or opinion - stabilizing jacks are used to stabilize a level trailer to prevent rocking and unwanted motion. They are not intended to prevent a trailer, particularly a trailer on a non level surface, from moving. On my two TMs and I assume on all of them the stabilizer jacks are oriented across the trailer width not along its length. If the jacks are being used to hold the trailer on a hill they will roll under and fail if the trailer moves. Good chocks are your best bet whether they are made by you or someone else. Also if you take the time to level the trailer in your driveway it will be less likely to roll on you.
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10-16-2010, 06:04 AM
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#6
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 668
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The wheel on the trailer jack is not terribly useful because of the heavy tongue weight and the roll away risks you mention. If the TM started to roll, there's not a lot you could do to stop it (except maybe grabbing the brake cable as you're jumping out of the way).
So take the wheel off and use the flat plate instead. I carry a 10" block of 6x6 to set the jack on because it provides a good support footprint and reduces the up and down distance the jack has to run. It also travels great between the 2 angle iron brackets on the tongue that support the battery box. With a good block of wood, you could get by without the flat plate if you didn't have one.
__________________
2005 TrailManor 3023
2003 Toyota Highlander 220hp V6 FWD
Reese 1000# round bar Weight Distributing Hitch
Prodigy brake controller.
"It's not how fast you can go, it's how fast you can stop an RV that counts."
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10-16-2010, 07:23 PM
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#7
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Guest
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Thank you all for your replies. I think I will incorporate a number of them. Will need to get some rubber chocks. Mine are plastic I think. Also don't have plate to replace tongue wheel, but will look into getting one if possible. If not I'll try the wood post, and use the jacks. Would that be the scissor jacks that I would put down in front?
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10-17-2010, 08:42 AM
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#8
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Guest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modhatter
Would that be the scissor jacks that I would put down in front?
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The scissors jacks on our Elkmont would certainly be strong enough.
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10-20-2010, 12:34 PM
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#9
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 1,063
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That pic isn't too far off from my driveway -- a bit shallower, but not substantially so -- and I use the hard plastic chocks without issue.
__________________
2009.5 2720SL
2006 Toyota Sienna
2018 Audi Q7
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11-13-2010, 02:21 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 71
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Hello Everyone.
I am new to this forum, having joined it because I am extremely interested in getting a Trailmanor. (I currently have a Fleetwood/Coleman Pop-Up tent camper.) Storage is an important concern for me. I keep the popup in the garage and I'd like to keep a trailmanor in there too but I'm not sure about a couple of things.
First issue: I live on a hill and my driveway slopes steeply downhill from the street to the garage. Right now my popup tongue almost hits the pavement at the entrance to the garage when I back it in there because when it gets to that point it is on the level garage floor but the the tow vehicle is still on the sloped driveway. The popup is only 14" long from the rear bumper to the hitch ball coupler. How much clearance does a 19' Trailmanor have from the ground? (I know it has bigger tires but what about the height from the ground to the axle and the fact that the axle is set farther back from center on a Trailmanor?)
Second issue: A popup is supposed to be level before raising the roof because raising the roof when it is off-level is very hard on the cable mechanism. How far out of level can I be and still raise the roof sections of a Trailmanor? I ask because since I would not be able to set the Trailmanor up in the garage as I do the popup (too long when open), I'd have to set it up on the street in front of the house and that is an extremely steep slope. I'd be well out of level even if I put the tongue on the pavement.
I really want a Trailmanor but really don't want the cost and inconvenience of storing it away from home. Thanks very much in advance for your input.
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