Protecting the TM from the sun?

I have a new TrailManor (3023). I want to keep it from sun damage as much as possible.

1) Does anyone know what the roof is made of? I have been told it is rubber and also have been told it is painted aluminum. I can not verify this anywhere in the specs.

2) What wax/sealant do you recommend for the sides and or roof to help preserve it from sun damage?

[RockyMtnRay]

[quote author=bwetherb link=board=22;threadid=1807;start=msg12789#msg1278 9 date=1080794936]
I have a new TrailManor (3023). I want to keep it from sun damage as much as possible.

1) Does anyone know what the roof is made of? I have been told it is rubber and also have been told it is painted aluminum. I can not verify this anywhere in the specs.
[/quote]

The roof, walls, and floor of a TrailManor are all constructed of an aluminum/foam/aluminum sandwich. Unlike the other RV manufacturers, TM does not use a rubber roof. The exterior aluminum is coated with "Krystal Kote"...which is apparently something similar to a baked enamel (it's not an ordinary automotive paint).

2) What wax/sealant do you recommend for the sides and or roof to help preserve it from sun damage?

In theory, the Krystal Kote doesn't require any waxing or other protection, even from UV damage, since it is not a paint per se and not as likely to have oxidation and other problems of painted surfaces. When I installed solar panels on my TM's roof last year using an acrylic adhesive, I found that a wipe with acetone simply removed surface dirt and grime but the Krystal Kote itself was just as shiny as the day I bought the trailer...there was zero oxidation and the surface was not in the least bit affected by such a strong solvent as acetone (a prime component in most paint removers).

That being said, my belief is that a top quality paint sealant (or wax) will make it easier to remove grime and bugs. I'm going to start using Klasse All-In-One Polish/Acrylic Sealant on my truck this year and will also try it on the walls (especially the front) and roof of my TM as well. According to the very smart folks at Proper RV Care , Klasse AIO or Blackfire All Finish Protectant are both excellent and extremely long lasting (only once a year) protectants for painted surfaces...and both provide Concours level gleam/gloss to the surfaces. Klasse is not cheap (around $20 to $25 for a 16 oz bottle) but it goes a loooonnnng way...only about an ounce of the stuff (about 2 tablespoons worth) is needed to coat an entire typical car. Go here (and scroll down) to see the shine Klasse put on a motorhome

[Bill]

Interesting rpoduct, Ray. Now, what is the accepted answer for removing tree sap? I've got as ton of it, from parking under an oak and a red pine, and I'm a little nervous about large quantities of Bug and Tar Remover.

Bill

[BobWilson]

I have found that it is best to keep it out of the sun with a portable shade canopy. Trees shed too much and don't protect against bird bombs. The local Dixieline Lumber yard sold a Motoshade for $139 complete. I was skeptical at first. But it survived the Southern California winter with no problem at all. You just want to tie the canopy down for high winds. I tied it to the underside of the TM with commercial straps with quick release latches. When I am gone I tied it to my lawn tractor just to have some weight to tie to. The 10 x20 foot worked fine for the 2720 SD that I have. It is actually wider than 10 foot, more like 12 foot. Takes a bit of practice to back the TM into it. If you have the room to erect this it does work. I throw a tarp over the hitch and Propane ottles with an old tire to hold it down. But you can't open the TM without pulling the trailer out.

See https://www.quickshop.com/qstore/Pro....hmx?UID=19760

Your 3023 model would be better under a longer unit.
This other company has a lot more sizes and options especially if you are the do-it-yourself type. You can make it big enough to raise the TM if you like. I will probably do this some day and attach shade screen on the sides. Probably a $500 project when you get done.
http://www.try-tech.com/canopies/non...-nestalaga.htm

Hope this helps somebody.

Bob W.

I keep the TM in a covered storage. This is the best solution for protecting the exterior. However, thanks to Bob Strong, I am now a firm believer in using ProtectAll, not only on my TM but on my vehicles. It is easy to use, simply spray and wipe off. It provides protection as well as a great shine for many washings.

[RockyMtnRay]

[quote author=Bill link=board=22;threadid=1807;start=msg12795#msg1279 5 date=1080838991]
Interesting rpoduct, Ray. Now, what is the accepted answer for removing tree sap? I've got as ton of it, from parking under an oak and a red pine, and I'm a little nervous about large quantities of Bug and Tar Remover.

Bill
[/quote]
Yeah, Klasse has acquired quite a following...the serious auto enthusisasts that hang out at Autopia get into quasi-religious arguments about how to best use the stuff. :

As for tree sap, the stuff is basically a hardened or semi-hardened resin. It can be dissolved with mineral spirits (e.g. something like naptha) or with some organic solvents (e.g. turpentine). Unfortunately these solvents are also pretty darn good at removing any surface protectant...they will definitely remove any and all carnauba based natural waxes and probably most acrylic & polymer sealants. Nearly all Bug & Tar removers contain one or both of these types of solvents...there are few (pricey) ones that don't and use some kind of surfactant action instead (e.g. 303 Cleaner). According to the finish experts/enthusiasts/car nuts at Better Car Care , another approach is to buff off the worst of the sap with a polishing compound (using an orbital polisher like the Cable Porter) and then remove what's left with a solvent.

The good news is that based on my attempts to actually remove our TM's Krystal Kote to have bare metal for mounting my solar panels, I've concluded that none of the common mineral, natural, or even strong paint removal solvents (like Methyl Ethyl Ketone) will hurt Krystal Kote. So use Bug and Tar remover at will! And then put some wax/sealant back on the areas you treated with Bug/Tar remover using one of the myriad of "quick detailing" sprays from Mothers, Meguiars, Sonus, etc. And if you want to get the really good stuff in Bug & Tar Removers, the good folk at Proper RV Care have assembled a web page of great products for RVers . As a side note, the Proper RV Care website is a part of the larger Classic Motoring Accessories/Proper Auto Care website . "CMA" (as it's known to car finish enthusiasts (or nuts)) is one of the Meccas of the internet for car care goodies...the other one being Griot's Garage . One could spend a sizable fortune buying all kinds of products from these sites.

We have a seasonal site in a Jellystone Park campground, and after about 6 weeks in the site, the roof was really nasty. We used the soft scrub recommended in our manual along with one of those RV brushes on the top and sides and everything came out great. Ellen did use the bug and tar stuff on the front shell to take off the bugs, and it looked great when we took it on the road for our vacation.

I think this year, I'll be more on top of of the top (does that sound right?) so it doesn't get quite so dirty. Happily, there is no problem with seasonals washing their units in our campground, and since the manager's parents are in the site across from ours, we get to use their ladder!

While shopping for Soft Scrub, I noticed a product called Clorox bathroom cleaner with Teflon. The product did not appear to contain bleach which Clorox is obviously known for. The Teflon is suppose to keep dirt off in the first place. I thought Teflon in a cleaner was a neat idea. Anyone try this product. Based on recommendations from this site, I think I will wash with Soft Scrub and wax with Protectal.

However, I was curious about the Teflon laced product.