Yes! Here's what Denny A posted about adjustment a while back. This is what that link was supposed to go to.
Look at the underside of the frame. You will see large bolt heads projecting straight down toward the ground. Two front and rear, and 4 in the center. Or, 4 on the left and 4 on the right. Each bolt is on the opposite side of the trailer from the lift bar it assists!
The bolts are cranked in or out, as needed, to adjust the torsion which will develop when the shells are "closing", while being made ready for towing. Adjustments should be made with the shell up (low/no torsion load), and only in small increments.
With the shells raised (min torsion) adjust the bolt "in" to increase torsion and "out" to reduce. The Torsion rods extend all the way across the underside of the frame.
So, let's say the torsion of the aft shell needs to be *increased*. Raise the the rear shell. At the rear most lift bars, look under the trailer and find the 2 bolt heads. Turn the left (or Rt) bolt IN about 1/2 turn. Do the same on the other. Lower the shell and then raise it. Note change, if any to the ease of lifting. If it improved, but still needs more adjustment, then adjust the forward lift torsion bars - of the rear shell. Use the same amount of adjustment - 1/2 turn. Recheck the opening forces.
At this point, all four bolts have been adjusted equally. If further fine tuning is needed, it becomes twist-and-try . Maybe all bolts need another 1/2 turn, or possibly a quarter turn has to be removed from each. Just take it slow, and keep track of how many turns of torsion were added/subtracted to/from each bolt.
If one side of the shell (say center, curb side) becomes cattywampus when closing and is difficult to latch, then the bolt for that one torsion bar should be adjusted individually. When complete, the shell should open easily, as advertised, and when closing, both of the center portions (of each shell) should come to rest so that the shell is level horizontally, ready for final latch engagement.
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