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Old 07-05-2007, 08:38 PM   #1
ericluvskim04
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Default Need serious help changing out the shower faucet

Hello,
I was wondering if anyone has ever changed out the faucet in the shower? When I turn it on it leaks from both knobs very bad. I took the trim off and removed the two screws and started cracking the seal so I could take a peak down at the knobs but I don't think this is the right access point. Should I try and take out the tub? If so how do I disconnect the drain? Should I access through the outside shower? This is so frustrating and I don't want to tear up the unit. I order the faucet from Adam so I have the TM replacement part. I already tried screwing the new stems in but it still leaked so I was back to square one which is replacing the whole unit. Any help or ideas would be apprecated. I really could use some of the great knowledge on this board. My wife won't go camping until I get it fixed! Thanks again for any help in this matter.

Eric Stone
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Old 07-06-2007, 08:45 AM   #2
Bill
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Do NOT take out the tub. See my semi-useless ramblings in your thread about the bathroom sink. But one thing I do remember is that you CAN get at the back of the tub faucets by the methods you are using. Not fun, very cramped, but it can be done. And I also know that taking out the tub is a bear of a job, and may require taking out (i.e., destroying) the gray water tank.

I'm trying to think why these faucets leak so badly. The only thing I can imagine is that at some point the TM was put away in winter conditions without draining the water system. Draining is trivially easy, but if it is not done, the fixtures will crack. I know - I cracked the outside shower head on my nearly-new '02 TM because I didn't drain it properly. And of course, once the assembly has cracked, replacement is the only option.

Let us know how it works out.

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Old 07-06-2007, 10:18 AM   #3
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Bill,
I called TM and talked to a Maintenance Tech. He said I didn't have to remove the trim but to remove the two screws on the panel and cut the chalking away. He then send to pull gingerly and it will pull forward with barely enough room to work. Before I went to work this morning I gave it a try and it pulled right off. Like you said it is very tight but doable. I am going to go and get some more rubber washers for hot and cold water pipes before I reinstalled. I found that out the hard way when I fixed the sink. You are correct I think the unit was not winterized properly so that is why I have had some much trouble with bathroom fixtures. Thanks for the input. I will definitely read the winterizing technics before I put it away this winter. I don't ever want to work under the bathroom sink again! Thanks again.

Eric Stone
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Old 07-07-2007, 06:49 PM   #4
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Default Another Access?

This may be too late or not applicable to your model, but I found another access while faced with the same problem; if you have a rear storage area under the bed accessible from outside, go to the forward side of this storage area and look for an access panel. This is directly behind the shower tub. Mine was held on with two screws and gave great access to the backside of the shower/tub fixture.

Good luck.
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Old 07-08-2007, 11:51 PM   #5
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Eric
I am not sure where your faucets are leaking, but there are two (at least) places I have had leaks.

1) The cup shaped nut just behind the knob. I had two of these break while in Mexico. I glued them together using JB Weld to get home. I got a whole replacement faucet from the manufacturer to replace it.

2) The rubber washers inside the valve. For some reason, the shower valves outside my TM have been my problem leakers. I just spent a bunch of time getting them stopped. Seemed every time I touched them, they leaked more. So I said to myself "Self, I wonder if it is the grease on the washers getting rubbed off." So I got some expensive silicon faucet grease from ACE and slathered it on, then put it back together. That stopped the leak and it has been holding for about a month. So the grease in there is for more than just making the valve turn more easily. It is a major contributor to the seal.

I hope this helps.
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Old 09-10-2017, 03:25 PM   #6
Klehman19
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I assume the rear of the trailer is in the down position for the batt compartment access panel to work on the tub
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Old 09-10-2017, 07:07 PM   #7
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klehman -

This thread is 10 years old, so I have kinda lost the thought. What year/model TM do you have?

I think JEllis was referring to an access panel inside the rear tool compartment in a 2619 or 2720. As I recall, that panel was in place for only a couple years. It was not present in my 2002 or 2006 2720 SL. You could cut out this panel quite easily, but be real careful not to let your saw cut the tub.

When I needed access to the shower faucets, I think I removed the box, about 2 inches deep, on the inside wall above the tub and faucets.

But no matter what you do, the rear shell (and hence the entire trailer) must be in the "UP" position.

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Old 09-10-2017, 07:42 PM   #8
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On my 2013 2619, I do have a small access panel where you can reach the bottom of the tub faucet to remove/replace it.
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Old 09-11-2017, 07:02 AM   #9
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Kidkraz -

Aha! Somehow I have never seen what you pictured. But the reason a 2720 is a foot longer than a 2619 is that the 2720 has a 1-foot deep storage compartment running across the entire rear of the trailer's lower box, below the rear bed. The 2619 does not have this storage compartment. A quick check of the floor plans online will show this compartment, and the effect it has on access under the tub.

For a 2619, there is/was an access panel to the under-tub area from outside the trailer, as you have pictured.

For a 2720, there is/was an access panel to the under-tub area, but the panel was located inside this storage area. Sadly, for reasons unknown, TM installed this panel in the 2720 for only a year or two. That is the panel I was referring to in my post above.

So Klehman, we need to know what your TM model is.

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