Tire Blow out ..where to start...

[Dave99gst]

Ok -- my tire blew out and took all of my gray/black water fittings with it. It also snapped the pipe off the grey water tank. It knocked the toilet off its flange so I need a new seal too. Anyone know were to start for replacement part numbers ?

I saw a blog posted on here but all the pictures dont work.
http://tmmaintnenace.blogspot.com/

I was fortunate to not suffer plumbing damage in either of my blowouts. I did break some of the drainage piping backing into a parking stop in a campground and was able to find everything I needed in the plumbing section of a local hardware store. (I'll eventually spray the white PVC black.) The only problem I still have is a very slow drip where the drain pipe exits the grey water tank. I've tried several cements and the closest I've come to a solution was a product designed to seal expansion tanks or windshield washer tanks on vehicles. I picked it up at an auto parts store. To eliminate the last remnant of the drip would probably require replacing the grey water tank. Good luck. - camp2canoe

[Bill]

A Search of the Plumbing forum on the word "weld" will find quite a bit of info about repairs to the gray tank, in addition to what you have already found. Or try "gray+leak" or "grey+leak".

HarveyRV suggested ABS chips dissolved in MEK or ABS cement to repair the gray tank. By the way, MEK is available at Sherwin Wiliams paint stores (unless you live in California, of course), and has a number of uses besides this one.

BobRederick suggested plastic welding - a welder is inexpensive from Harbor Freight, though it does require a bit of practice.

JB Weld seems to have resulted in only mixed success. PVC cement does not work.

Also, when you reset the toilet, you need to be aware that the "foam donut" flange seal is not the same size as the one you will find in the Plumbing section of a hardware store or Home Depot. RV plumbing uses a different size donut, which is available at the service counter of most any RV dealer. All of the black plumbing with the junction, slide valves, bayonet fitting and cap will come from an RV place as well.

Lots of stuff can come from a hardware store, too, as camp2canoe suggested - but not all of it for your purposes.

Good luck. And when you get it all done, check out the posts about preventing blowout damage. Several techniques have been implemented by our members.

Bill

[Dave99gst]

Thanks for the replies guys... Ive went thru every page in the plumbing section. My problem is locating ne,elbows tees, fitttings and gate valves. My local rv stores are not that well stocked so i will need to buy the stuff.online

[Reldma]

Had the same problem when we bought our TM and I went to 2 local RV parts department and they searched the manuals they had and ordered what they thought I needed. Ended up they only got part of what I need. I called the factory and told them what happened and they sent me everything I needed in a few days. Was less of a problem and I got just the parts I needed. Try them for the black pipe pieces you need.
Ray

[Dave99gst]

Ya Ray, thats kind of what I was thinking

[Dave99gst]

Got it all totaly redone - Hunting down all the pieces was the only hard part. It cost over $100 bucks to replace it all.

Of course I am happy you managed to complete the repairs and are on the road again. Your experience certainly reinforces my plan to hang some sort of heavy mud flaps on our TM next week before our next trip.

Has anyone heard that the factory is making some sort of shield for the plumbing on new models?

[knoxjere]

We had a blow out on our first trip out in our 2006 2027. After that, my husband made a cage as described on this forum. When we got our new 3023 last year, he made the BAM as posted by YorgiCorgi: (see post #1)

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ad.php?t=11586

We haven't had another blowout since then, but YogiCorgi had one and the BAM did what it was supposed to do, protect the plumbing. (see post #9).

[scrubjaysnest]

Originally Posted by Dave99gst

Got it all totaly redone - Hunting down all the pieces was the only hard part. It cost over $100 bucks to replace it all.

Nice job, and you got rid of the need to move the dump hose between connections.