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02-08-2011, 04:29 PM
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#11
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Guest
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Quote:
I have one of those in my hunting camper and they are no quieter than the one in my TM.
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That's too bad. I think that the larger the fan, the quieter, because it can rotate slower to deliver the same amount of air.
So with the space constraints of most rv systems, it may be pretty hard to reduce the noise.
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02-08-2011, 06:29 PM
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#12
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,836
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We installed a Lux digital thermostat a few months ago.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product
We had one in our previous camper too. VERY EASY to install.
The nicest thing about the digital is that you can set a predetermined temperature and it is always the same. With the old thermostat, it was always too hot or too cold. It was very difficult to get a comfortable temp with the thing. It was awful IMO.
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TrailManor Elkmont
640W solar- 230AH LiFeP04 Battery
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02-09-2011, 12:09 AM
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#13
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: TN
Posts: 674
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We purchased ours from Home Depot & one weird thing about it is we have only changed batts once since 2008 & that was while on trip in Nov 2010.
RiteTemp 6022 at Home Depot
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02-09-2011, 07:50 AM
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#14
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Southeast of Houston, Texas
Posts: 1,089
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For those who have done this mod: our 2001 TM has an analog thermostat which features a mechanical on/off switch. Do these digital thermostats support this on/off switch function? I never liked this on/off switch because it is stiff and I always think I am going to break it. I'd like to replace the thermostat just to get rid of that.
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02-09-2011, 08:00 AM
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#15
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 605
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Yes, ours has an on/off switch that functions fine.
Malinda
__________________
'06 2619
Gene & Malinda, Delilah & Koko
'12 Toyota Tundra 4.6 V8 Tow package - Leer XL
Thule for our tandem Hobie Kayak :-)
120w Solar Panel - 2.5" lift 15" Marathons
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02-09-2011, 09:13 AM
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#16
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: TN
Posts: 674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbmiller3
For those who have done this mod: our 2001 TM has an analog thermostat which features a mechanical on/off switch. Do these digital thermostats support this on/off switch function? I never liked this on/off switch because it is stiff and I always think I am going to break it. I'd like to replace the thermostat just to get rid of that.
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Definitely have a on / off function also so just go for it since it improves the way the heater works. This is a must have mod/upgrade IMO & very easy to do.
We even upgraded our old digital to a new touch screen model with a refresh mode & adjustable temperature variance last year when we replaced our old heat pump. This has done wonders for our comfort in our house.
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02-09-2011, 09:19 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 160
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Here is a link to a supplier of catalytic heaters, safe for use in RV's.
http://www.bruestcatalyticheaters.com/html/product.html
The good thing about these is that they will give you $ 0.99 back for every $ you put into them. I have used as computer case fan (12VDC and 0.25A) to circulate the air. No noise. Worked for me. When I hook up I use a ceramic electric space heater coupled to a baseboard thermostat and that works just fine too.
There are of course other manufacturers of catalytic heaters, but this one has a larger selection from 1500 BTU to 60000 BTU input. Since 99% of the gas is used the output is practically the same. (less 1%).
Finally here is a link to an RVer who did the conversion:
http://rvtravel.com/blog/rvnow/2007/...ic-heater.html
Even Camping World sells catalytic heaters, of course at an inflated price, but they have them. That is the Olympian brand.
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02-09-2011, 10:04 AM
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#18
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Guest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbmiller3
For those who have done this mod: our 2001 TM has an analog thermostat which features a mechanical on/off switch. Do these digital thermostats support this on/off switch function? I never liked this on/off switch because it is stiff and I always think I am going to break it. I'd like to replace the thermostat just to get rid of that.
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Bill,
Yes, I can testify that the on/off switch on the standard thermostat is subject to breaking since I broke mine off the last trip I made. I bought a new thermostat of the same type, but since my unit hasn't been opened since I returned home I haven't installed it yet. Will probably just go ahead and get a digital as a result of this thread.
Bill (a different one)
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02-09-2011, 10:41 AM
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#19
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: TN
Posts: 674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cochise
Here is a link to a supplier of catalytic heaters, safe for use in RV's.
http://www.bruestcatalyticheaters.com/html/product.html
The good thing about these is that they will give you $ 0.99 back for every $ you put into them. I have used as computer case fan (12VDC and 0.25A) to circulate the air. No noise. Worked for me. When I hook up I use a ceramic electric space heater coupled to a baseboard thermostat and that works just fine too.
There are of course other manufacturers of catalytic heaters, but this one has a larger selection from 1500 BTU to 60000 BTU input. Since 99% of the gas is used the output is practically the same. (less 1%).
Finally here is a link to an RVer who did the conversion:
http://rvtravel.com/blog/rvnow/2007/...ic-heater.html
Even Camping World sells catalytic heaters, of course at an inflated price, but they have them. That is the Olympian brand.
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Hm interesting but for me the existing heat along with my Pelonis heaters is doing great & very cost effective for as much as we camp for now. The TM heater can run us out so far on its on on cold nights in the mountains. Propane usage has been minimal for us so far.
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02-15-2011, 08:13 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Lake Oswego, OR (near Portland)
Posts: 153
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One thing that may cause excessive temperature fluctuations and /or excessive cycling of the heater is where the thermostat is located relative to any heater output vents. On our 2720 SD the heater vent output was only around 4 to 5 feet away from the thermostat which was located in the standard under the sink location. When the heater would kick on the heated air didn't take long to reach the thermostat no matter which way I rotated the vent and the thermostat, sensing the increased "room" temperature would shut down the heater as it should. But in fact the room hadn't heated up, only the area around the thermostat.
To remedy this problem we installed a digital thermostat with 7 day programming higher up on the bathroom wall, more in the height range you would find in a residential install. See picture. It solved the excessive cycling problem completely to our satisfaction.
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Chip & Kat Carter
Lake Oswego, OR
2007 2720SD, Dual 80 watt solar panels, flat screen LCD TV mounted on side wall, 210 Ah AGM Battery, Link 10, Dual Honda 2000EUi's
Cadillac Escalade EXT, Prodigy
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