I bought the "Boondocker" from "Best Converter". What I got looked nothing like the photo on their web site at the time, and looked exactly like a Parallax converter with a "Boondocker" label stuck over the Parallax one and, if you believe them, some different stuff in the ROM. But I really can't tell. Features in the manual on the web site including lights for burned out fuses were not present. The unit cost at the time about $100 more than the equivalent Parallax unit new on eBay. Prices may be closer now.
I am kind of dubious about "Best Converter" and would suggest you buy a Parallax or Progressive Dynamics converter from another dealer. If you can get it to fit, the Progressive Dynamics 4500 would be nice, as it has extra space which will help with the modern dual-function breakers, which require more wiring than the old ones. Measure really carefully before you order it, I think it's higher than the current converter. It will require that you cut the masonite (it's like swiss cheese, use a very fine toothed hand saw) but there might be room enough.
Buy Dual Function AFCI/GFI breakers with "neutral pigtails" (that's important) for the branch circuits. These provide shock protection inside of the camper and are required in kitchen and bathroom circuits by current electrical codes. These are some extra work to set up, as you have to connect the pigtail, and then connect both neutral and hot to the breaker. There are many brands. I think the Siemens ones are best, as they have two different LEDs to indicate AFCI or GFI tripped. The Square D ones have a sort of kludge in which they buzz in different patterns if you hold down the test button. LEDs are way better than that.
While you are rewiring, get a
Progressive Industries HW-30C and connect it between the shore cord and the converter. It will protect you from various sorts of bad and dangerous power, and has a two minute delay if the power blinks, which protects your air conditioner compressor from stalling and overheating. It has a little remote control box which I mounted over the 'fridge, which reports the voltage, frequency, current, and any power faults.
If you get the HW-30C, you must then use a ground-to-neutral jumper plug on your generator, or use the bypass switch on the control box. The proper thing to do is actually drive a ground rod and connect that to ground and neutral, but the nice military one that you can actually remove from the ground when you're done is no longer available. All of us hams snapped them up.
Buy and read
Mike Sokol's book on RV electrical safety. There is that much to know. You can get it for Kindle or paperback.
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