Pressure switch help

[DanSTL]

2009 2720QB , Pressure switch at bathroom wall doesnt seem to be working.I’m leaving For trip Tomorrow Morning and shuts off lights every 30 minutes then comes back on.

My carbon monoxide /propane detector is working, but I don’t know what else relies on the pressure switch in my year 2009 and model?

Fuses all good and when lights die, manually pressing switch does nothing .

My guess is bad switch ? Any pointers on how to replace the switch?

[Dan3023]

You could just swap in a toggle switch for now. Just remember to turn it off when closing it up.

[Bill]

...when lights die, manually pressing switch does nothing.

If pressing and releasing the switch manually several times doesn't change the situation, I'm not sure why we would home in solely on the switch - although it is certainly a good candidate. During the early minutes, when the lights are working, does releasing the switch turn the lights off?

Grasping at straws here - has the switch ever gotten seriously wet? For example, was the shower water turned on before the shower curtain was pulled around, allowing water to flow under the edge of the wall and soak into the body of the switch? That could have caused corrosion inside the switch, or even on the switch connection terminals. You can easily check the terminals for corrosion.

TM changed the list of things controlled by the switch at the time they went to LED lights in the rear ceiling fixtures. I don't know if your TM has the previous configuration or the new one, so it is a little hard to pin down. I remember that the CO detector was one of the controlled items - mine used to "squeek!" whenever the button was released. That is probably the same today, but you seem to indicate that the CO detector keeps working even when the lights have gone off.

The 30-minute thing suggests a thermal issue - something heats up and loses electrical contact. The switch is certainly a possibility, but there are others. For example, things get warm in the converter box. Did you actually pull out the fuse involved, and then replace it? Can you swap the fuse with another of the same amp-value from a different slot in the fuse block? If you have a tester of some kind, can you confirm that there is voltage at the input side of the fuse, even when the lights have turned off?

For a temporary fix, replacing the switch with a toggle switch isn't a bad idea. Of course you need to install it in such a way that it stays dry, and doesn't get crushed when the bathroom wall is raised. But that should be do-able.

You can certainly get a replacement switch from the factory. To replace it, you have to work from inside the rear compartment, but that is not a big deal. That doesn't help you immediately, of course.

Bill

[DanSTL]

Originally Posted by Bill

If pressing and releasing the switch manually several times doesn't change the situation, I'm not sure why we would home in solely on the switch - although it is certainly a good candidate. During the early minutes, when the lights are working, does releasing the switch turn the lights off?

Latest report is lights stayed on all night and yes, releasing switch by dropping wall turned lights off. Previously I stayed on for 30 minutes then off 30 minutes.

Originally Posted by Bill

Grasping at straws here - has the switch ever gotten seriously wet? For example, was the shower water turned on before the shower curtain was pulled around, allowing water to flow under the edge of the wall and soak into the body of the switch? That could have caused corrosion inside the switch, or even on the switch connection terminals. You can easily check the terminals for corrosion.

—Not to my knowledge. Are the terminals the screws at the end of the blue wires?

Originally Posted by Bill

TM changed the list of things controlled by the switch at the time they went to LED lights in the rear ceiling fixtures. I don't know if your TM has the previous configuration or the new one, so it is a little hard to pin down. … you seem to indicate that the CO detector keeps working even when the lights have gone off.

—Yes, CO detector and toilet fan work fine.
1. Do you suspect the water heater ( on propane ) or AC could be tied to switch too?

Originally Posted by Bill

The 30-minute thing suggests a thermal issue - something heats up and loses electrical contact. The switch is certainly a possibility, but there are others. For example, things get warm in the converter box. Did you actually pull out the fuse involved, and then replace it? Can you swap the fuse with another of the same amp-value from a different slot in the fuse block? If you have a tester of some kind, can you confirm that there is voltage at the input side of the fuse, even when the lights have turned off?

—I used a circuit tester and showed power at fuse head even with lights off, and I pulled and inspected all fuses; however at your suggestion I’ve isolated source fuse and replaced (even though it worked all night)

Originally Posted by Bill

For a temporary fix, replacing the switch with a toggle switch isn't a bad idea. Of course you need to install it in such a way that it stays dry, and doesn't get crushed when the bathroom wall is raised. But that should be do-able.

You can certainly get a replacement switch from the factory. To replace it, you have to work from inside the rear compartment, but that is not a big deal. That doesn't help you immediately, of course.

2. Is the pressure switch on other end of the picture blue wires ? Do I unscrew switch from above to start? Is the switch testable with multimeter and only replaceable from factory stock?

[Bill]

Dan -

You've done a nice job of investigating everything, and narrowing down the possibilities. Thanks, it makes things easier. My thought is that you have identified the culprit as the switch, as you originally believed. So my experience with the same problem says that the answers to your questions are:

o Yes, the switch is in the upper right corner of the rear compartment, with the blue wires on screws hanging down.
o Yes, you remove the switch from above, by unscrewing a big retaining ring or nut of some kind. The switch will drop out, into the compartment, with the wires attached. Either disconnect the battery, or at least be sure it doesn't drop onto anything metal, of course.
o Yes, you should be able to get a new switch directly out of stock from the factory. They seem to have their parts department well-organized these days, so call them, and send a backup email to Paul Wipf ([email protected]) requesting quick shipping. Paul is very good at making things happen.
o Yes, the switch is testable with a multi-meter on the resistance (ohms) scale. However, since the problem is sometimes there and sometimes not, I'm not sure that you could draw any useful conclusions.

When you get the new switch, the installation is a little fussy, in that you have to get the height of the button exactly right. If the switch is too low, the raised wall won't press it far enough. If too high, the wall will be hard to raise, and will try to crush the switch. If you run out of time to fuss with it, you can purposely install it a bit too low, then insert a thin shim such as a couple small pieces of cardboard above the switch button. When you have found the right thickness, tape the shim to the underside of the wall edge, and it will stay in place nicely.

Bill

[DanSTL]

Thanks Bill

Your descriptions are very helpful. I plan to order Part # 09007, described as “24-359 Momentary Switch (Kill Switch)” which seems to be the right one after scanning https://trailmanor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/trailmanorpartscatalog_new2018.pdf

Will update post later

[goldwingj1]

Bathroom wall safety switch; this is the switch that controls the interior lights on the rear shell.
Exact match to the original switch, but probably at a much cheaper price than TM.
Manufacturer: MarVac Electronics
Description: SPST 15A 12V DC, OFF - (ON) Auto or Marine Momentary Push
Button Switch
Price: #11.76, including shipping
Phone #: (949) 650-2001