My Journey with a 2004 Trailmanor 3124KS – "Coach" - A Comprehensive Update

[whySKIPdodis]

Greetings, fellow adventurers! I'm excited to chronicle my journey with a remarkable 2004 Trailmanor 3124KS, fondly nicknamed "Coach." I've encountered some intriguing challenges and discoveries along the way, and I'm eager to share them with this community. First, thank all of you for all your posts over the many years of this forum, I have read so so so many great posts that have a wealth of information. Truly invaluable.

Introduction
I'm Skip, and I've recently celebrated my 40th birthday. My work allows me to work from home, granting me the flexibility to dive into the exciting world of camper life. My adventure began when I acquired my Trailmanor for a jaw-dropping $500, and yes, that's not a typo. This incredible deal came from a local friend whose late father had been the proud owner of this trailer for its entire lifespan. Unfortunately, after his passing, it had been left to brave the elements for approximately four years, leaving it in need of some serious TLC.

Initial Inspection:
Before plunging into the extensive renovation process, I wanted to ensure that the fundamental systems were in good working order. Water, propane, and electric systems underwent thorough testing, and to my relief, they all passed with flying colors. However, there was one hiccup concerning the exterior shower, which I resolved by purchasing a replacement on Amazon.

Renovation Plan:

• - Fabric Revamp: A significant challenge lay in the presence of mold and water damage on all the fabrics inside the trailer. It was apparent that we needed to replace the majority of them. Surprisingly, only the window curtains could be salvaged. All of the foam components within the trailer needed replacing as well. It's worth noting that my wife and kids have a heightened sensitivity to mold, which influenced the thoroughness of our approach.
• - Mold Mitigation: We initiated a meticulous cleaning process that involved scrubbing every surface with soap and water. Following this, we applied a potent mold killer, called Concrobium, to ensure no mold would survive.
• - Roof Repairs: Our inspection revealed leaks in the roof, and after studying various forums, we decided to tackle this issue. We used DICOR self-leveling caulk and liquid rubber, following meticulous preparation and cleaning to ensure the roof was watertight.
• - Stabilization: Achieving a level and stable configuration was essential. We raised the living room side by loosening bolts, using a floor jack, and a strategic placement of a 2x4. This process also involved careful adjustment of the torsion bars, which we may revisit once all renovations are complete.
• - Additional Repairs: Various smaller issues were addressed, such as reinforcing the bottom of the back cap where the bed frame connects. We added bracing screws and applied silicone caulk for good measure.

Upcoming Plans:

• - Flooring Upgrade: We're on the hunt for sheet linoleum or a similar material for a front-to-back flooring upgrade. While we're considering long-term options like LVP, this solution will serve us well for the time being.
• - Toilet Replacement: We've been researching alternatives to the current Thetford toilet, which, although untested, doesn't meet our requirements. We've found a DIY solution (thanks to the invaluable insights shared on this forum) and are preparing to undertake this project.
• - Water Heater Maintenance: We plan to replace the water heater element and anode rod. It's a straightforward procedure that can significantly enhance the system's reliability.
• - Bedding Configuration: We're experimenting with bedding options and might initially opt for two inexpensive twin mattresses from a local discount outlet, along with a bridging accessory to eliminate the gap. A 2-inch mattress topper is also under consideration.
• - Living Room Transformation: Our vision for the living room side includes the addition of bench seats along both walls and a table in between. These benches will serve a dual purpose, as our two kids (aged 10 and 8) can use them as beds when not in use as seating. However, we'll need to address the propane heater's location to ensure safety and functionality.
• - Fridge Troubleshooting: The Norcold fridge works on shore power and battery but is finicky on propane. We've researched this issue extensively and will soon dedicate time to address it. Since we don't have immediate plans for boondocking, we believe this should suffice.
• - Trailer Maintenance: Before embarking on our first travel adventure, we plan to conduct thorough trailer maintenance, which includes brake checks, hub greasing, and other essential tasks.

I'm eager to engage with this community and look forward to your questions, thoughts, and clever insights as we navigate these challenges and celebrate our successes together.

Pics attached. Sorry for the rotated ones.

[Kidkraz]

Skip, another option when dealing with mold is Hydrogen Peroxide. I ran into an issue when selling a home. There was mold behind an cabinet in the basement. I used peroxide first to kill the stuff. Then washed it with soap and water. Then applied the mold prevention.
Glad things are going fairly well with the camper. You might consider camping in the driveway for a night or where ever the camper normally stays, if possible. Then make more notes on what hiccups or issues need correcting.

As to the bed issue, this link might help ya. Bottom line good luck in yer travels.

http://www.discobed.com/adults/

[whySKIPdodis]

Thanks for the recommendation with the Hydrogen Peroxide...if i find any particularly difficult spots I'll give that a go!

We will definitely be driveway camping the first time!

I have see the discobed, and have entertained those options for beds, but they are quite a bit more expensive than 2x4s (though much lighter). But now that a look at them again...the do turn into benches as well....hmmmm....thanks for the reminder!

[Kidkraz]

Check this link, he had the couch and added a bunk bed. If ya replaced the couch, I would think the bed sling portion might be swung up for regular use of the couch. Hope that makes sense.


https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ight=Bunk+beds

[Darrowman]

This won't help you with the bunk beds, but might be of interest to you and others concerning the king bed. We replaced the foam mattress with 2 twin bed air mattresses. I know what you are thinking, I'm not sleeping on an air mattress, but hear me out.
Here's the link to what we purchased:

https://airdream.net/shop/mattresses...mattress-twin/

These mattresses have springs and quilted top on them. They come with an inflation pump and inflate in about 30 seconds each. They are not cheap at $320 each. They are very, very comfortable and not like any air mattress you have ever slept on.

They are about 6 inches shorter than the original foam mattress and the 2 pushed together are about 4 inches more narrow. They inflate to around 10 inches high, but deflate enough to still allow the back shell close with no problem.

After we we slept on them a few nights and loved them, we took the cover off of the original foam mattress. I then cut a 6 or 7 inch piece from the width of it to fill the gap created by the shorter air mattress. We put the piece at the foot of the bed. We also purchased a folding two step stool to make it easier to get into the 6 inch higher bed, remember, inflated it is 10 inches high.

We love the air adjustability, much like a sleep number bed. We also love how much more comfortable they are than the original foam mattress with the sprins and quilted top. If you are worried about the mattress leaking air, they can be patched or replaced for $185.

I hope this may help some of you as it did us.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

[anotherSKIP]

Originally Posted by Kidkraz

Check this link, he had the couch and added a bunk bed. If ya replaced the couch, I would think the bed sling portion might be swung up for regular use of the couch. Hope that makes sense.


https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...ight=Bunk+beds

Thanks for this! I had seen it and its my inspiration for what can me done on that side...I have an idea...and its using those same discobed sets...stay tuned!

[anotherSKIP]

Originally Posted by Darrowman

This won't help you with the bunk beds, but might be of interest to you and others concerning the king bed. We replaced the foam mattress with 2 twin bed air mattresses. I know what you are thinking, I'm not sleeping on an air mattress, but hear me out.
Here's the link to what we purchased:

https://airdream.net/shop/mattresses...mattress-twin/

Thanks for this as well!

I have heard good things about these. I am going to go with a pair of thin mattresses, and then a 2-3" rollup foam topper...and if we looooooove the camper and use it a lot Ill look into this further.

[anotherSKIP]

Hello everyone, here's another update! I had to create a new account because my original one had some issues.

I suspected that the water heater element was faulty, and even if it wasn't, a fresh one wouldn't hurt. I followed Bill's DIY guide in the Tech Library (thanks, Bill!) and it went smoothly. Check out the picture of the old one; it was in pretty bad shape. I'm glad I decided to change it.

I also decided to replace the anode rod, and that turned out to be quite an adventure. The old one (see the picture below) was almost completely worn out. The NPT threads at the top had fused with the inside threads, and I had to use a wire brush to clean them. Even with that, the new rod I had wouldn't thread in completely – it bound about 3/4 of the way. I tried cleaning the threads more, but I couldn't get it any further than what's pictured. I've ordered a new one and a hose attachment to clean the inside of the tank, which was looking pretty dirty.

Moving on to more exciting stuff, I'm getting new flooring this weekend and doing a deep clean. I found a great deal on some Discobed XL bunk beds locally and will be picking those up soon. These will replace the couch/bed. I'm also thinking about making or finding a dinette set to go in front of it. I'm not 100% sure about the design yet, but I'm sure it'll come to me.

[whySKIPdodis]

After an epic flooring transformation that's truly a game-changer, it's time to bid adieu to updates for a while. But worry not, because come early Spring, we're diving headfirst into an exciting DIY adventure, where every task promises a sense of fulfillment and a rejuvenated journey ahead.

In our upcoming chapter, we'll craft our very own "Poor Man's Sealand," turning a simple project into a remarkable feat of ingenuity. The water heater is getting a royal treatment, with an anode rod replacement and a deep cleanse to ensure top-notch performance. Meanwhile, the fresh tank might even get a stylish interior lid to spruce things up.

Adding a touch of elegance, we'll install quarter round trim along the flooring, giving the interior a sophisticated finish. Next on our checklist is the essential wheel bearing repacking and a masterful adjustment of the torsion bar tension, ensuring smooth travels on the horizon.

But it doesn't stop there! Creativity takes center stage as we brainstorm solutions for additional storage beneath the future Discobed Bunk beds, tucked away in the slide area. Crafting, buying, or repurposing, we're on the hunt for the perfect dinette set, adding charm and functionality to our haven on wheels.

Right by the entrance, we'll introduce a small drop zone table, taking the place of a clunky 3-drawer contraption that's now a thing of the past. As the finishing touch, the curtains will grace the windows once more, infusing a sense of coziness and privacy.

The sleeping quarters are getting a makeover too, with the plan to accommodate two comfy twin beds, bridged together, and adorned with a rollable foam topper for the ultimate in relaxation.

Our trusty steed, the RV, will get a spa day with a thorough exterior wash to shine in all its glory. And for the cautious ones among us, we'll consider a resealing mission for the roof, ensuring our mobile haven remains leak-free and steadfast on our journeys.

And to wrap it all up, a handful of delightful surprises await us as we embrace the new season of adventure. Stay tuned for an epic saga of DIY dreams and a rejuvenated travel companion, all inspired by the wisdom and camaraderie of the TrailManorOwners community.

Some pics attached.

Short YT Video Tour

[whySKIPdodis]

Simple DIY Instructions for Raising a Sagging Trailmanor Roof (with Pictures!)

Video walkthrough of camper (including roof): https://youtu.be/axekz-oCXws

Hey everyone, I wanted to share my experience fixing the sagging roof on my 2004 Trailmanor 3124 KS. It was a pretty big project, but I'm really happy with how it turned out. I followed a similar approach to the one described in this forum post: https://trailmanorowners.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=18833

Here are some simple DIY instructions based on what I did. Feel free to adapt them based on your specific needs and materials:

1. Finding the Problem: The first step is to figure out where your roof is sagging. You can usually tell just by looking at it. If you see water pooling on the roof or notice leaks when it rains, that's a good sign that you have a sag. You can see in some of my earlier posts the sag from the inside...it was pretty obvious.

2. Getting Your Supplies: The key here is to find lightweight and strong aluminum. I used 3" aluminum extrusions with 12" footers, but you could also use long beams if that works better for you. Here’s what you’ll need:

• Aluminum for Support: Aluminum extrusions or beams (long or short sections with footers)
• Cross-Members: Pieces of aluminum long enough to span the width of the camper room to go between the side supports
• Threaded Rods/U-bolts: Long enough to go through the roof and attach to a metal plate on the underside
• Metal Plate: A sheet of metal to attach to the ceiling inside
• Tools: Drill, sealant, bolts, nuts, and maybe an angle grinder

3. Putting in the Side Supports: Mount your aluminum extrusions along the edges of the roof, making sure they sit solidly on the front shell walls. I did not screw them down. I used double sided 1" Eternabond tape underneath the footers, the pressure from the roof holds them well otherwise.

4. Adding the Cross-Members: Put the shorter aluminum cross-members between the side supports. They should rest on top of the side supports, and it’s best to position them in front of or between your center roof vents.

5. Connecting the Threaded Rods: Drill holes through the roof at the center of each cross-member and insert the threaded rods. Inside the camper, attach these rods to the metal plate you've prepared. Place the plate around the vent window openings on the ceiling.

6. Raising the Roof: Now for the satisfying part! Tighten the nuts on the threaded rods, and you’ll see your roof slowly lift back into its proper shape.

7. Sealing It Up: Make sure everything is tightly secured and then seal around all the bolts and anywhere water could get in. This will prevent leaks in the future.

A Few Extra Tips:

• Safety First: Be careful when working on the roof! Use a sturdy ladder and wear safety gear.
• Measure Twice, Cut Once: Getting your measurements right is super important.
• Test Fit: It’s a good idea to tape everything in place temporarily to make sure it all fits before you secure it permanently.
• Weight Matters: The extra aluminum will add some weight, so you might need to adjust your torsion bars.
• Fresh Paint: For a nice finish and added protection, think about painting your roof with elastomeric paint.

I hope this helps! If you have any questions, feel free to ask.