cost of retro fit removable tongue - Page 2

Wavery · 10-20-2010, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThePair

The hinge pin seems smaller, insofar as there are washers on top & bottom to allow for the swing. This might be a part of the problem. Mine's a 2009, you have a 2006, I can't imagine they've made that much in the way of changes between the two. I do remember the first time took more effort to remove, I would just recommend getting a second person, taking all the weight off the front (via the jacks/stabilizers) and seeing if there's any reason the pin physically won't come out. Once I pulled the cotter from the bottom and gave it a wiggle, I was able to pull mine.

The only reason I take mine off is because of how I have to store the TM -- it has the potential to block the fridge door (in the garage) and sometimes I have to climb over the tongue to get to some cabinets; with the "nose" removed, the power jack isn't in my way, and it's a lot easier for me to maneuver when I need to get by.

This year I managed to get the TM into a more favorable position, so I may not need to remove the nose. We'll see. It's not a big deal either way

I'm glad to know that it comes off........the people that we just bought our '04 2720SL from lived fairly close to the ocean. The trailer tongue and propane tanks are starting to show signs of rust. Taking off that front part to prep & paint will make the job easier.....

......I like easier...

10-21-2010, 07:09 AM

It has been reported here in the past that some TM owners, especially those that park in RV storage yards, remove the swing tongue and take it home, to reduce the risk of theft. I suppose a tow truck could grab the front, but no on is going to use a standard hitch and tow ball to move it.

**ShrimpBurrito** · 10-21-2010, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harveyrv

The trailer tongue and propane tanks are starting to show signs of rust.

Wayne - Be sure you closely inspect the rear mounting bracket for the propane tanks. The weld can break loose and the ring to which they are welded can rust in half, making the attachment very unstable. I've already replaced both my tanks for that reason, even after a few attempts at repairs.

With the new tanks, I welded galvanized steel rings on the inside of the the tank's bottom ring to better distribute the force from the bracket. Now, even with the new tanks, their mount is much more secure. Virtually zero movement.

Dave

**Bill** · 10-25-2010, 09:39 AM

You've done welding on a propane tank? Good for you! I've had professional welders refuse to do it.

Bill

**ShrimpBurrito** · 10-25-2010, 10:06 AM

Myself personally? No. I went to the same local industrial fabrication shop I've gone to for a bunch of other welding jobs. These were also brand new tanks which had never been filled before, although I'm not sure that would have made a difference. Plus, the new galvanized ring is welded to the inside of the existing tank ring, but not the tank itself. I can take a picture if you'd like.

Dave

Reldma · 10-25-2010, 07:21 PM

ShrimpBurrito I would be interested in seeing a picture of your weld job on the propane tanks. I have been thinking of replacing ours. I have also thought about recessing them in the tongue like they do on the newer SL and DL models. Have you done that?

Wavery · 10-25-2010, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

Wayne - Be sure you closely inspect the rear mounting bracket for the propane tanks. The weld can break loose and the ring to which they are welded can rust in half, making the attachment very unstable. I've already replaced both my tanks for that reason, even after a few attempts at repairs.

With the new tanks, I welded galvanized steel rings on the inside of the the tank's bottom ring to better distribute the force from the bracket. Now, even with the new tanks, their mount is much more secure. Virtually zero movement.

Dave

Thanks......I'll check it out. I spent the day looking for 15" tires & wheels. I just got back from picking up the wheels and tomorrow I get the tires installed on the rims (Maxxi's 225-75-R15 load range D).

Yesterday, I machined and painted my lift kit, so I haven't had much time to even look at the camper itself. We loaded it over the weekend but that's about it.

Tomorrow, I'll install the lift kit, tires & wheels. I noticed that the axle is bolted and welded to the frame on the camper so I'll have to grind off the welds.

Maybe I'll look at that propane tank set-up this weekend ..........boy........isn't camping fun.....

**ShrimpBurrito** · 10-27-2010, 10:43 AM

Reldma - Attached are pics of the rings I had welded to the bottom of the propane tanks. The rings were cut from flat stock and rolled at the shop. Not something I could do at home with any precision. The rings are pretty thick, about 1/8". Definitely thicker than the ring that came with the tank.

I have not recessed the tanks into the tongue....I don't see the advantage. The only reason I would consider that would be if I gained more space in the slideout storage area, and that's not going to happen unless I rebuilt it. Not worth it. I have, however, thought a bit about retrofitting the tanks' attachment bolts to something similar to what the newer slideout models have. It's rather inconvenient to remove the tanks....it takes 6 bolts.

Dave

Reldma · 10-27-2010, 03:02 PM

Dave what do you use the 3rd tank for. It looks like it is about 1/3 the size of a 20 lb tank. I have never seen a tank that small!

**ShrimpBurrito** · 10-27-2010, 03:42 PM

I use the small propane tank for a camp stove and grill. I prefer to cook outside whenever possible, and prefer not to use the disposable propane tanks due to cost, wastefulness, and safety reasons. There is a 3-page thread on the topic with a better pic here:

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...?t=7935&page=3

Dave