Replacing the shut off valve

[TravelinBand]

I tried looking for a thread on replacing the shut off valves on the rear street side of my TM and didn't see anything so I am starting a new thread. On a recent trip we stayed at a place with hookups and I forgot to attach my water regulator when hooking up to city water. The valve on the left sprung a leak and now I have zero pressure in my shower. I have been told it's an easy fix with a shark bite valve. Looks like I need to cut the hose directly above the metal band (which is solid so I don't see how it could be removed) My question is, what tool should I use to cut the hose and what other tools will I need to prepare the hose and install the new valve. Any and all tips tricks and info are greatly appreciated as I know nothing about plumbing.

[ShrimpBurrito]

The valve has probably blown a seal, due to the combination of age and high pressure, and it might be possible to simply replace the seal. I don't know how that valve might come apart (it might not be serviceable), but I'd first look for any obvious ways to take it apart to get to the seal, which is probably pretty common. That will be easier than replacing the valve.

Absent that, yes, you can remove and replace the valve. You could cut the PEX, which is the name of the type of tubing to which it is attached. But the PEX isn't very well secured in the floor, and so not super easy to cut with a hack saw. The best and easiest way, I think, would be to use a pair of PVC cutters, available at any decent hardware or plumbing store....something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=pvc+cutter&ref=nb_sb_noss

With a pair of those, one snip and the PEX would be cut. Alternatively, you could remove that metal crimp band.....a pair of needle nose pliers or even a flat screwdriver to get in under the bent crimped part of it should loosen it up, but be careful not to gouge the PEX in the process. Once it is loose enough to slide up and down, you should be able to pull the valve out.

In either case, yes, you can replace it with a Sharkbite valve. It simply slides on the PEX, and you're done. No tightening or tools needed. They made be hard to find, so you could also get a Sharkbite fitting that connects to the PEX on one end, and then has threads on the other end for a pipe or PVC connection. There is also this Sharkbite connector that has PEX on one end, and then accepts PVC pipe in the other, so you wouldn't need a threaded PVC connection. See https://www.sharkbite.com/products/p...ition-coupling

Dave

[oldstick]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I replaced both of those exact same plastic drain valves less than two months ago due to a slow dripping leak they developed over time. I used shark bite style replacements from the link above. You can ignore the ends you see in the picture that have the 3/8 " hex nuts on them. You can throw those nuts away as that will be the bottom drain end with nothing else to connect.

The main thing with the sharkbite types is that you need to cut the old ones off with a clean 90 degree square cut for the new ones to seat and seal properly. Looks like you have plenty of spare length to cut just above the old metal clamps. You might be able to use a PVC tubing cutter, if there is room to rotate it around 360 degrees for a clean cut. I had to resort to using a pair of large tree limb lopping sheers to finally get a clean 90 degree cut. The new valves slid right on after that with no more leaks at all.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by ShrimpBurrito

You could cut the PEX, which is the name of the type of tubing to which it is attached. The best and easiest way, I think, would be to use a pair of PVC cutters. Yes, you can remove and replace the valve ... but be careful not to gouge the PEX in the process.

Just a reminder -- if you gouge the PEX, the Sharkbite probably won't seal. So yes, be extra careful.

Bill

[commodor47]

Here is another alternative repair, put together by one of our members, Rick Newcomb.

It consists of three 7/16 - 25/32" hose clamps; 1/2" flexible reinforced hose; 1/2" x 1/2" shark bite connectors; 1/2" male hose stem, brass; straight garden hose valve, plastic.

I replaced the hot water drain down valve and the rear low point drain valve on my TM. Both replacement valve assemblies continue to operate without any leaks.

Dick

[Deb Mac]

Thanks for the suggestions. I have exactly the same problem - 2 missing handles and the other two are not looking healthy. I like the Sharkbite shut-off valves.

[AZKevin]

Hi, thankful for the thread. I first went behind the valve and pushed it our per a different forum on fb where that was suggested then just replace the seals. I don't see any seals and can't figure out what the next step is after removing the valve. After trying to get underneath the crimp with screwdrivers from jewelry size and up several sizes I had to give up that attempt. I was able to cut the copper crimp band with a dremel. Can't get the part out. As someone mentioned, the pipe is pretty loose. Well, very. I've tried various tools and combinations but it won't budge downward even a little. I'm preferring not to cut the PEX. Ideas are most welcome as I'm at the end of a NF campsite stay limit and have need to move on quickly and no RV Service place around can get me in for weeks.

[Shane826]

The pex is crimped. Unless you heat it up to make it soft, you’re probably not gonna get the old valve out. And if you do, it’ll be even harder to get a new one in.

[AZKevin]

OK, thanks Shane. Do I cut it just above where the copper crimp was? Impossible to tell how far up into the PEX the valve goes. The adjacent one was cut several inches, very near to the belly.

[Shane826]

Yeah I just use a tubing cutter with the cutting wheel right above the crimp ring.