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06-02-2016, 12:09 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 26
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Easy question on how to mount speakers to the frame
I scoured the forum looking for an answer to my "elementary" question, but not able to find it. Probably not looking hard enough.
I want to mount outdoor speakers to the frame on the curb side. The mounts use thin metal, and I am curious what the best method is to attach to the frame, such as self-tapping screws or maybe drill holes all the way through so I can attach lock washers and nuts to bolts?
If you have mounted speakers in this fashion, what did you use?
Thanks!
__________________
2003 TrailManor 2720SL - Purchased May 2015!
2008 Nissan Frontier SE 4x4 Crew Cab 4.0L
Prodigy P3 Brake Controller
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06-02-2016, 06:32 PM
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#2
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 893
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Mounting to the chassis
I have drilled a number of holes in the frame to mount various things. I used square-drive "RV" screws which I bought on Amazon, "AP Products 012-PSQ500 W 8 X 1- 1/4 White Pan Head Square Recess Screw", $18.33 for 500.
These screws are thread-forming rather than thread-cutting, and the frame is soft enough for that.
I drove them in using a Riobi variable speed electric drill with a "low" gear setting and an adjustable clutch for limiting the torque while driving a screw. And of course a square-drive bit. The drill and its 12V and 120V chargers are on the shelf at Home Depot, and it will drive your stabilizers too.
Start with a small drill bit and drill a pilot hole using oil or cutting fluid. Graduate to a bit about the diameter of the screw minus the threads, again using oil or cutting fluid. A little cutting fluid will be left in the hole for the screw. The screw threads will then form mating threads on the frame as you drive the screw.
The same screw will work in wood if you pre-drill a hole (and maybe if you don't), and it will work in the trailer skin. Hand-drive the screws into the skin, they will strip out easily.
If you want to position your drill holes precisely without the pilot drill skating around when you start, use a one-piece steel center punch like "Starrett 117C Center Punch With Round Shank, 4" Length, 1/8" Tapered Point Diameter", and give it a mild blow with a hammer.
Wear eye protection.
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06-02-2016, 06:33 PM
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#3
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BannedUsers
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 466
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hmmmmm...
yes self tapping screws, but with some internal spline lock washers. You don't want these to vibrate loose, especially while tooling down the hi-way. Just make sure that the mounts are sturdy too. If it were me I would make them so they could be removed and placed in the TV. Speakers are not as rugged as you think. A couple of good jarring bumps and the voice coils could get damaged and when that happens the coil could short out frying the output transistor on your stereo, which means you would lose one side of your stereo at the very least!
You might get lucky and have it just get stuck so as to not go in or out and not make anymore sound. I would advise a permanent installation...that is...unless it's just some mounts for the speakers.
Tom
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06-02-2016, 06:52 PM
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#4
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 893
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There's some material on vibration loosening of fasteners at http://www.boltscience.com/pages/vibloose.htm, including a video. Do not use split washers, they tend to encourage loosening under vibration. Toothed washers require a soft substrate to bite into on both faces, so we hope they're harder than the screw. Loctite might be better. I decided to store my speakers indoors and just mount connectors outside, just to keep the mud off of them, and to prevent them from being used unintentionally. The neighbors don't like that :-)
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06-07-2016, 09:32 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 26
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Thank you for the responses!
Thank you Tom and Bruce. I appreciate your responses! I am starting to lean towards mounted some kind of hook on the frame, running the wires, and removing the speakers and leaving them in the trailer when I am done. Maybe if I adopt that method, I can get more expensive and nicer sounding speakers as well.
Thanks again, much appreciated!
__________________
2003 TrailManor 2720SL - Purchased May 2015!
2008 Nissan Frontier SE 4x4 Crew Cab 4.0L
Prodigy P3 Brake Controller
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06-07-2016, 07:38 PM
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#6
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New Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 1
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I mounted my speaker brackets to the top part of bed supports one for the front bed one to the back bed support with stainless steel hose clamps. The speaker bracket is about the same width as the square tubing that support is made from. It opens and closes as normal. I just put the speakers in the camper for storage. Roll up the wire and store in the vent behind the fridge.
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06-08-2016, 07:18 AM
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#7
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 1,063
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I like "no set up" installations, as much as possible. So, I mounted a pair of marine speakers to the frame, using self-tapping screws and no locking washers or anything. So far, several years later, and everything is still working just fine, stable, and not budging. I can remove them if I want (both from the mounts and from the wiring) easily...but I don't. This way, there's nothing to set up or take down, just tune the radio and fade from front to rear.
The speakers were relatively inexpensive, so if they eventually need replacement, I won't cry. As long as the brackets are intact, it's a simple swap. That convenience is worth more to me than a pack/unpack/set up scenario.
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2009.5 2720SL
2006 Toyota Sienna
2018 Audi Q7
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