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12-11-2015, 09:38 PM
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#1
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Sunny Arizona
Posts: 751
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Anode rod almost gone
While I figured since I was doing plumbing , and the valve camping world installed leaks , I might as well do the element and anode rod, anode rod just about gone, now I need to hunt down my socket for elements and rinse out the tank cause it is full of calcium and magnesium . So I will remember to do this yearly maybe quarterly if I use AZ hard water in the TM. going to make a repair /maintenance log book soon.
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12-12-2015, 05:51 AM
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#2
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Big Bend area, Florida
Posts: 2,120
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Anodes seem to be good for about 3 years depending on use of the hotwater heater. Easy to change out, sometimes a little difficult to find the right one.
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07-02-2020, 12:04 PM
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#3
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrubjaysnest
Anodes seem to be good for about 3 years depending on use of the hotwater heater. Easy to change out, sometimes a little difficult to find the right one.
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I always have trouble getting the anode rod threaded....any tips for getting it started?
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Sara & Sophie
(RIP Bailey - 12/6/2020)
Welcome Sophie DOB 1/5/2021
Mini Goldendoodle (who's not so mini)
New to me 2010. 2720SD TrailManor
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Both purchased July 2013
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New bag seals Sept 2020
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07-02-2020, 12:51 PM
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#4
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,530
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I was always taught to turn a screw or bolt counterclockwise first until you feel the "click" of the threads to prevent crossthreading. Then you can turn clockwise. It's not foolproof, but it helps.
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07-02-2020, 02:06 PM
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#5
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,274
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Are you sure the threads on the water heater are really clean? Any debris in there could make getting the rod started difficult.
Are you using Teflon tape on the rod?
Dave
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2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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07-02-2020, 05:13 PM
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#6
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Blandford, MA
Posts: 1,048
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Sara,
Larry offers a good method; turning counterclockwise until you feel the threads start to lock in place. But that still makes it somewhat difficult to start threading the anode because it is unbalanced. I have found it easiest to use two hands. With my right hand I use the index finger and thumb to turn the anode clockwise while at the same time using the thumb of my left hand pressed against the bottom of large nut to keep the rod level. It is a bit tricky but after a few attempts I have no problem threading the new anode in place.
Dick
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Dick & Jeri in Western MA
2003 2720 SL
2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac Limited 4x4 - V8
Albums
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12-17-2021, 06:58 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Kansas
Posts: 86
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When I bought my used TM, the dealer gave me a new anode rod. He did not install it. Once I do install it , should it be removed when the TM is in storage or not in use?
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TM: 2003 2720 SD
TV: 2006 Chev. Express G1500 V8
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12-17-2021, 10:07 AM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,179
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No need to remove it. Just check it once every year or two.
Some folks remove the anode rod to drain the water heater tank before freezing weather. Although this is necessary in most RVs, TMs have a different and easier method of draining. If you look under the TM on the utility (street) side, you will see four drain valves hanging down - two in front of the tire, and two toward the rear. Opening these valves gravity-drains the entire plumbing system. As you can see in this diagram from my TechStuff album
https://www.trailmanorowners.com/for...&pictureid=435
the water heater drains through one of those valves. Just open all four, turn on a couple hot and cold faucets to admit air, and the water drains out on the ground.
Bill
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12-17-2021, 11:42 AM
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#9
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sunny Beaches of Los Angeles
Posts: 3,274
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Also, if you have difficulty getting the anode rod back in, particularly a new one with perfect threads, make sure the threads on the water heater are clean. A wire brush can help with that, but if you still have problems, a thread tap will do it for sure. Since you don't actually want to make new threads, and instead just clean the existing ones, you'll want to be sure you get it engaged in the existing threads, and at least screw it in part of the way with your hands (instead of a wrench).
I have used this one when I actually had to re-thread mine (not just clean it) -- it's 3/4"-14 NPT:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FXKW4F6
Dave
__________________
2000 2720SL & 2007 3124KB
2005 Toyota Sequoia
Twin Battle Born 12v 100Ah LiFePO4 (BBGC2) batteries, 300W solar on rear shell, Link 10, Lift kit, Maxxis 8008 225 75/R15 E tires
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03-19-2022, 10:35 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Mount Airy, MD
Posts: 82
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Hi all,
I've been trying to get the existing anode out of my water heater. The last time I drained the system in the fall, tons of junk came out, so I am sure the rod is in bad shape. I can tell there is rust around the threads and periodic spraying with WD-40 and Liquid Wrench has yet to free up the anode rod. Other than continuing to periodically spray and trying as much force without breaking my socket wrench, the only other idea I have is to drill it out. Since it seems that this rod must have been in for a very long time and not replaced regularly by the previous owners, my other concern is discovering the condition of the threads once I finally succeed in removing the anode rod. Any suggestions or thoughts are appreciated.
John
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2007 3023QB
2017 F150 3.5L V6 EcoBoost
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