Torsion bar adjustment.

If I adjust the torsion bars to make it easier to lift the front of our 3326, would it conversly make it harder to close?

MERRY CHRISTMAS to ALL!

Jimmy

Yes but only a little bit. The adjustment may not be as necessary as you think.

1.Make sure you are level.
2.Make sure that your heights are even on the lift arms so it goes up straight (measure from the same point on the round lift arms to the same edge of the roof at all 4 lift arms, the forward 2 must match as well as the back 2.
3.If these are all ok AND all of the bolts are equally snug on the torsion units then tighten the big bolts only a little bit (maybe an eighth of a turn) on all 4 when up, test.
4 Repeat till happy, or too tired to do any more ups and downs with the roof.

Yep. I agree with all the above, basically, except for:

3.If these are all ok AND all of the bolts are equally snug on the torsion units then tighten the big bolts only a little bit (maybe an eighth of a turn) on all 4 when up, test.

In my case, the torsion bars at the middle of my TM came to me with those bolts more extended than the bolts that were at the ends of the TM. I first tried tightening all bolts to be almost equal (meaning that I tightened the middle bolts to match the end bolts) and found that I could then barely move the shells. I then returned the bolts to where I started and from there I then adjusted until I felt I had the best lift and close.

Bottom line advice from me is if you just need a slight betterance, and there are major differences among some of the bolts, then start from where they are currently with slight adjustments.

2.Make sure that your heights are even on the lift arms so it goes up straight (measure from the same point on the round lift arms to the same edge of the roof at all 4 lift arms, the forward 2 must match as well as the back 2.

I do not exactly understand what you mean...so can you please expand upon this setp?

I have a 3124 and the front shell is kinda hard to start lifiting up on. TM did not install any kind of handle or anything so with one person lifting it always will start up at an angle.

I am 1500 miles from my computer that has the pictures and my TM but here is a thread that is well written that will probably answer most of your questions.
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=8160

I actually have pictures of my unit with lines drawn to show how to measure, but I am not there. Sorry.
Dave

Went to the Tampa RV show today and had the opportunity to talk with Keith Hulsey (owner's son) and picked his brain on several issues. One being torsion bar adjustment since I recently removed the awning due to substantial damage when previous owner bent it by making a sharp turn. Keith said it takes a 1 1/8 in socket and 1 revolution changes the weight by 5 lbs. Only make the adjustments with the camper open and adjust the torsion bolt on the opposite side that you want to make the adjustment. Tight increases the lifting capacity and loose lessen lifting capacity. Leave the center bolts alone and turn only one corner slowly. He said to bring it to the factory if I want, but indicated I could do it if I took my time. He indicated the awning weighs 65 lbs. Keith could not have been any more helpful. A big thanks to him for taking his time to share his knowledge.

Thanks John
BTW, I got to see the new TM.s Love them. Great company with great product.

[mmayville]

I recently purchased my TM 2720 SL and notice that when I close the rear side of the shell the the front where the seal meets the front shell is high by about 3-4". I am bringing it home after my brake fiasco on Thursday and need to adjust the torsion bars so the rear shell goes down farther and that the seal from the front shell completely seals against the back shell. At the present time when the unit is closed there is approximately a 1" gap on the front shell seal and even more on the corners. I will post pictures this weekend. Both axles had to be rebuilt with new backing plates, brakes, bearings and so forth to the tune of $800.00. I am also interested in suggestions for the winter. I store it on a lot for the winter with a cover, but in Michigan we get a lot of snow. I am open to suggestions of how to possibly putting some kind of tent shaped form over the top to keep the weight off the roof. Maybe a hinged set of 1/4 plywood with hinges in the middle placed over the top so the snow distributes the weight more toward the outside edges of the top so it melts or slides off the top. Not sure have to really think this one out. My storage place does not plow the rows to the parking spots in the winter I think. Never had to go there in the winter but is a concern. Back to torsion bar adjusments, after reading the forum the adjustment bolts us a 1 1/8" socket correct? I did notice when I set it up the first time that the holding rods for the pins that hold the unit in place fall off the pins. (Suggestions)

Mike

[shebantam]

Mike, it took 2 of us to close our 2720, my husband had to close the latch on the pin while I was pushing down,
I think we solved that by using silicone spray on the latches themselves and working them. When we went to close, all I did was sort of bounce the shell using the stirrups provided on the lift arms. They nicely snapped in even the one that is missing the spring.

[mmayville]

Well I am going to pick it up from the service department this afternoon. I will have time to work on it this weekend. TM sent me 4 new lock down latches for the door side and the not door side so I can install them. I am sure there are going to be adjustments. The lock pin on the lower door panel by the stove keeps popping out of the clip and the lower door is moving down when the door is open and comes out of the clip on that side. I have to look to see if the plastic trim seal that is between the lower and upper door is missing as the white plastic arm is just to hold the door together. I do not remember if it is missing since I have only set it up one time. I am wondering where to get the hardware to mount the spare tire to the back of the unit and move it out from under it. Anyway will see what everything is over the next few days. At least both axles have been rebuilt and Brake Activator has been installed.

[mmayville]

I have my unit by the house and am going to adjust the torsion spring bars tomorrow. I put new shell clamps all the way around. $124.00 from Trailmanor. Now I need to adjust the torsion spring bars to lock into place so the top seal is sealed all the way around the top of the unit. Brakes are great now that the whole axle has been rebuilt and an new BA switch put in. However, the cable for the BA switch is still to short to reach my TV. So I am going to use my old cable and hook the eyelets with a D ring to attach to my TV. This will give me about another 12" of slack so the activator pin does not come out again.