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03-25-2019, 10:55 AM
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#1
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,530
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Upcoming torsion bar replacement
Yes, I know, they have a lifetime warrantee. This applies to the original owner. Like most companies, TM expects people to replace their vehicles (TM) at least every 10 years. This leaves the 2nd owner (me) with the torsion bar replacement. I'm not blaming TM. That's just what companies do.
Metal springs fatigue over time, so torsion bars (which are springs of a sort) will also suffer from this. My front shell no longer opens easily and the torsion bar adjustment is adjusted to the maximum. I have not seen anyone report back on a torsion bar replacement, so I guess it will be mostly be up to me to do this. I will be ordering two new torsion bars soon, and will report back on how it goes.
However, I am hoping a few of you have some suggestions, or maybe have changed torsion bars yourself. I live in Canada and there are no TM dealers around who would know how to do this. Even if I go to WA, OR, or CA, they would have to order in the torsion bars, and I'd have to wait while they replace them leaving my family without any lodging. So, it is indeed, up to me. Good thing I've done a few crazy things in the past, like replace the heads of my truck, transmission solenoids of my front drive (worst job ever on a FWD... I will never own a FWD again as they are horrible to work on), and probably need to have my own head checked out.
So far, I think I have just one question. I believe the actual replacement will go just fine. My question will be about adjustment. Most torsion bar adjustment threads have to do with minor adjustments to deal with metal fatigue of the torsion spring, or a new added weight on the roof. There will be no "starting" point if you are replacing torsion bars. If you have replaced your own torsion bars, where did you start with your adjustment?
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03-25-2019, 11:40 AM
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#2
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,530
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Sonja got back to me very quickly this morning with quotes for two torsion bars. For a 2720 w/o roof air, but w/ awning:
13/16x82 inches left handed front roof bar
3/4x82 right handed front roof bar
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03-25-2019, 02:19 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larryjb
I have not seen anyone report back on a torsion bar replacement, so I guess it will be mostly be up to me to do this.
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Larry -
If you do a comprehensive report with pictures, I would really like to put it in the Trail Manor Technical Library over your signature. It would be immensely valuable to present or future owners who are thinking about doing the same thing.
BTW, are you getting the same strength bars as the old ones, or thinking of upgrading by one strength grade?
Bill
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03-25-2019, 03:20 PM
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#4
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,530
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Bill,
I won't be upgrading the size of the torsion bars. I'm not planning to add anything to the roof, and the next size up could make it difficult to close.
I will be sure to document the process with tons of pictures.
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03-27-2019, 12:45 AM
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#5
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 893
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What did Sonja say they cost? If you can, please break out the shipping cost, and the cost of each bar.
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03-27-2019, 04:45 PM
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#6
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,530
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The 13/16 x 82 is $175, the 3/4 x 82 is $150.
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04-02-2019, 10:30 AM
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#7
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yes, they hunt lions.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 1,360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larryjb
The 13/16 x 82 is $175, the 3/4 x 82 is $150.
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Sounds good so far - but 82" product length requires truck freight, right?
Slightly OT: My overweight 2619 also has a pretty severe lifting problem with the front shell (factory A/C, plus about 35lbs of Solar panels). Bars for the "stern" of the shell are still OK, but the "bow" pair require a ton of effort. In comparison to upgrading the bars, it might be cheaper and easier to replace the two "glass" panels with flex. But I'll SWAG that the bars up front are pretty much worn out after more than a dozen years, and 35 lbs won't be enough "weight loss" to make a huge difference.
__________________
TM='06 2619 w/5K axle, 15" Maxxis "E" tires. Plumbing protector. 800 watts solar. 600AH LiFePO4 batteries, 3500 watt inverter. CR-1110 E-F/S fridge (compressor).
TV = 2007 4runner sport, with a 36 volt "power boost".
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09-12-2023, 02:43 PM
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#8
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,893
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The problem is after that bolt goes so far the tip of the torsion bar is no king er on the edge of the bolt and being pushed upward, but instead it’s pushing into the threads on the side of the bolt. If you put something between the bolt and bar I’m pretty sure it would just yeet it right out of there.
Did I use that word correctly?
__________________
2007/21 TM 3326 (Pride of the Fleet)
2000 2720SL (Rebuild Project)
2002 2619 (Parts TM)
SMARTER THAN GOOGLE!
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09-12-2023, 03:18 PM
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#9
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,082
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__________________
2013 2619
80 watt solar panel/swing hitch/low profile A/C.
Enduro 4445 caravan mover
2016 Dodge Ram 1500 V8 Hemi
Installed powered folding tow mirrors
Stopped playing with airplanes, now I just enjoy watching them fly by.
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09-13-2023, 04:05 PM
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#10
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 1,530
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The only thing you might be able to try is to use a grinder and lengthen the hole that the torsion bar goes through under the trailer. However, that metal is VERY hard to grind, and may not even be enough to provide the extra lift you desire.
It's not too bad to replace torsion bars, and there is a youtube video on how to lift each shell end to replace bars. The only snag I ran into when replacing my torsion bars was that mine had the wrong sized bar. The bigger one wouldn't fit through the hole on the bottom of the shell, so I had to grind the hole larger.
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