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09-07-2023, 01:01 AM
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#1
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Aug 2023
Posts: 90
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Basic Plumbing Question
Hi, recently bought a 2009 2720QB and have a small dribble leak from under the kitchen and bathroom faucet. I have narrowed both leaks to the pipes under each faucet, but have a couple of basic questions I could use help with.
1. Does the below sound like I have a clog somewhere between the kitchen and bath?
Water drains fine, but seems to back up to just beneath the kitchen and bath drain, then leaks from the junction where my finger points (2 pics).
Also note the red line is the where I think the max water line should sit (in the P trap) but it's sitting way higher up near the kitchen drain.
2. Where can I buy the right drain pipes for the TM?
I attempted to pickup replacement 1 1/2 inch pipes at my local Ace hardware but the threads to not appear to match up. The TM pipes also have a strange notch I haven't seen before in conventional drain pipes, so I ended up siliconing the old pipes and hoping that would stop the leaks, which didn't work.
Thanks in advance!
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09-07-2023, 05:56 AM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,178
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Your red line level theory is correct. Your description says that you do indeed have a clog, quite possibly in the vertical pipe. You can clear it with a plumber's snake, or you can remove all the pipe pieces and either clean them or replace them.
The pipes are standard plumbing pieces, available at any hardware store. No goop or teflon tape should be used. Most of the joints are intended to be hand-tightened. You can identify them by the fact that they are threaded, and have molded in "grippers" for your hand. If someone put a wrench on these, something may have cracked. Hence the leak.
One or two joints may be glued. If you have any, you won't be able to take them apart, so you can assume those pieces are good, and reuse them as they are.
All the goop is a big mistake. The threaded fittings are all self-sealing when assembled correctly, and should need no goop. In fact, it is possible that by forcing too much goop into a joint, the clog was created.
My advice is to disassemble everything, and replace the pieces that are broken or gooped. There are white nylon wedge-shaped seals in some of the joints - be sure they are assembled with the correct side facing downstream. Reassemble with firm hand-tightening.
Finally, run a snake down the vertical pipe to make sure the clog is not within it.
There are numerous on-line how-to-do-it sites. For example, you may find help here
https://www.thisoldhouse.com/kitchen...a-kitchen-sink
Bill
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09-07-2023, 08:17 AM
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#3
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,928
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Bill is spot on with everything.
I will just add this....... assemble all of the pipes and fittings, leaving them loose at first. Then tighten them piece by piece, being sure that everything is aligned. Tighten the slip joints last and be sure that there is no tension at the slip joints when tightening them.
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TrailManor Elkmont
640W solar- 230AH LiFeP04 Battery
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09-07-2023, 08:35 AM
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#4
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Sep 2021
Posts: 86
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An alternative to the P-trap is the HepVo dry trap. It clears up a bit of space and simplifies things.
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Jim and Kelli Gizzi
Ferndale, WA
2005 2720QB
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09-07-2023, 09:13 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
Most of the joints are intended to be hand-tightened. You can identify them by the fact that they are threaded, and have molded in "grippers" for your hand ... The threaded fittings are all self-sealing when assembled correctly, and should need no goop.
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Dan -
One further comment, to reassure you about hand-tightening plumbing joints without wrenches or tape or goop. Remember that there is no pressure in drain pipes. The water simply flows smoothly by gravity through an empty pipe.
When you are making connections in a pressurized water system, you need to work harder at getting the joints tight enough to resist seeping under substantial water pressure. But in a drain system, there is no pressure.
Bill
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09-07-2023, 08:57 AM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: The mountains of Scottsdale, AZ, and the beaches of Maine
Posts: 10,178
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Jim -
Re Hep-VO: I've been looking at these things for a while, but never knew anyone who used one. Are they pretty good? Do they work as advertised? Any advice?
Bill
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09-07-2023, 10:09 AM
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#7
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Logan Lake, BC, Can
Posts: 226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill
Jim -
Re Hep-VO: I've been looking at these things for a while, but never knew anyone who used one. Are they pretty good? Do they work as advertised? Any advice?
Bill
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Same question here! Saw those when I was dealing with a leaking kitchen drain basket myself - was SO tempted to pick one up. Still very interested. It would make life so much easier under the sink!
Considered one for under the tub when I had cracked J-trap there. But that is now fixed and I hope to Never have to go there again.
And Dan - I had to remove my strainer basket - the seal under it was leaking. If you have to, you may find it very difficult, if not impossible to get the old basket out. The years of mung that had gotten into the threads of the lock nut had pretty much cemented it in place. Had to cut mine out with a multi-tool and replace the whole basket assembly.
__________________
2008 2720SL “The Kobayashi Maru”
2006 Toyota 4Runner, SR5, 4L V6
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09-07-2023, 08:44 PM
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#8
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Aug 2023
Posts: 90
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Plan!
Thanks everyone! I will try to snake the vertical pipe by removing the circled pipe, and will take the old parts to a local plumbing supply to ensure I get the right parts and then hand tighten. Really appreciate the help. Maiden trip set for 7-8 Oct !
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09-07-2023, 09:04 PM
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#9
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TrailManor Master
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanSTL
Thanks everyone! I will try to snake the vertical pipe by removing the circled pipe, and will take the old parts to a local plumbing supply to ensure I get the right parts and then hand tighten. Really appreciate the help. Maiden trip set for 7-8 Oct !
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If you feel like you want to put sealer on any of the threads, pick up a can of "Oaty plumber's putty". Especially for the connector under the sink (where the plastic pipe connects to the bottom of the sink). It never gets hard. It does help seal and more important, it helps you tighten the threads more smoothly.
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TrailManor Elkmont
640W solar- 230AH LiFeP04 Battery
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09-09-2023, 05:39 PM
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#10
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Site Sponsor
Join Date: Sep 2021
Posts: 86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deb Mac
Same question here! Saw those when I was dealing with a leaking kitchen drain basket myself - was SO tempted to pick one up. Still very interested. It would make life so much easier under the sink!
Considered one for under the tub when I had cracked J-trap there. But that is now fixed and I hope to Never have to go there again.
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I don't know that it would fit under the tub. I would also like to put one in the bathroom but don't think it would fit there either.
__________________
Jim and Kelli Gizzi
Ferndale, WA
2005 2720QB
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