Rock Guard Cracked on bottom

[DEvans1]

Our Rock Guard on the front of our 2013 trailer has a small crack about 1 in on the bottom section that curves in toward the trailer. I've been thinking of gluing in a long and very light piece of plastic or wood across the bottom on the inside of the guard to reinforce the area and keep the crack from moving to the facing of the rock guard. Has anyone done this before? Any advice on glue and/or material to reinforce the crack. The rock guard is plastic so something that will bond well but be light enough to not create additional stress.

[Bill]

First, see if you can switch the front and rear stone guards. On some TM's you could do this - on others they are a different size. If you can switch them, it will prevent any future stress on the repaired guard. BTW, the guards are surprisingly easy to remove. Don't remove any screws!

When mine cracked, I got a piece of aluminum strap (any hardware store), I think 1/16 inch thick and about 4 inches long. I positioned this inside bottom flat part of the stone guard, as you suggest, then pulled the crack closed and drilled two holes on each side of the crack so I could pop rivet it into position. You may be able to buy white rivets, or you may have to paint them yourself. Use aluminum rivets - they are easy to pull.

After riveting, I used a wet finger to push a bit of white caulk into the crack from outside, just to hide the crack.

Mine has lasted quite well.

Bill

[HoMiPa]

Another option might be to use moldable plastic pellets, on the inside of the rock guard. Several brands out there - Polly Plastics, ThermoMorph, InstaMorph, Moldamer - a search on Amazon for moldable plastic pellets will take you to them, small to large quantities.

[Bill]

Holly -

I never heard of these, so I am glad to know about them. Do you think it would be wise for the OP to drill a few 1/8" holes, maybe two on each side of the crack, and put an aluminum pop rivet through each hole? The rivets themselves would contribute no strength, but the extended lumpy backside of the rivet would give the moldable plastic something to grip.

One thing we all forgot to mention is that the first step in the repair should be to drill a hole through the very end of the crack. This will prevent the crack from continuing to propagate further into the rock guard.

Bill

[HoMiPa]

Originally Posted by Bill

Holly -

I never heard of these, so I am glad to know about them. Do you think it would be wise for the OP to drill a few 1/8" holes, maybe two on each side of the crack, and put an aluminum pop rivet through each hole? The rivets themselves would contribute no strength, but the extended lumpy backside of the rivet would give the moldable plastic something to grip.

One thing we all forgot to mention is that the first step in the repair should be to drill a hole through the very end of the crack. This will prevent the crack from continuing to propagate further into the rock guard.

Bill

I wonder if perhaps just drilling a couple of small holes, and molding the plastic into them, along with over the back side of the crack, would work just as easy, without the pop rivets? This stuff molds really easy, into cracks, etc.

I only know of this stuff because my daughter is a theatre props master, so she uses this stuff to mold things sometimes. It's fun stuff. LOL But reading the reviews, a lot of people have used it to mend plastic things, with great success. I've played with it, never mended anything, but it seems like it would work. Certainly worth a try, and WAY cheaper than a new rock guard. You can paint it as well, which is a plus.

[Michael-Rhonda]

I am facing the same situation. Has anyone tried FiberFix patch? A review says that "FiberFix uses resin as an adhesive. Once you dip it in water, it becomes as strong as steel. That is the significant advantage over tape. When it hardens, there is nothing that can go through it." (https://fiberfixreview.review). FiberFix website is: "https://www.fiberfix.com/about-us". I saw FiberFix at Home Depot. Thanks. Michael

[jap1935]

I followed Bill's excellent steps 04/23/18 for two of my front rock guard cracks but I have a problem with the two attaching screws that attach the two side brkts to the upper front section. Just bought a used 2007 TM 2720 SL and the previous owner? drilled four new attaching holes but the attaching screws didn't secure the brackets, leaving a loose attachment. They? also left the old attaching holes without sealing them! What is the best way to try to attach the two lower brackets? How thick is the upper front section? I now have eight holes(four each side) for attaching the two side brackets and the screws that were used didn't secure the loose brackets!
Thanks for any suggestions, Jim jap1935

[DanSTL]

Has anyone successfully used moldeable plastic pellets or sheets to repair the rock guard? I’ve got 3M 5200 adhesive and I was going to use it to stop cracks, but now thinking of using moldeable plastic and Rivets instead especially if anyone’s had success.

I also have one rivet at the top right that I’ll have to remove and reinstall, as it secures the hinge onto rock guard and corner one is badly cracked .

[Bill]

I can't speak to the moldable plastic, but as noted in several posts above, your first step ought to be to drill a small hole through the rock guard right at the end of the crack. This will stop the crack from propagating further. The hole can be any convenient size from, say 1/8 inch to 1/16th inch.

Bill

[DanSTL]

Holes drilled and waiting for moldable pellets and pop rivet gun.

Question regarding the broken rivet which I attempted to drill out. The rivet fell out but the rivet cap won’t come out and wondering if pictured hollow shaft is supposed to fall out too or is this part of the cover? I don’t think the cap stays but seems it’s welded to the hollow shaft , first time working with rivets. Thanks