Does Length Matter?

Originally Posted by cali camping

Keith,

Chap,
You'll note of the top of the trailer I have 2 large solar panels and I bring along a Honda 200 generator to recharge the 200+ Ah battery I use. I installed a 1250 watt inverter with a remote control on/off switch so we can turn it on and off from inside the trailer. At night if it is too cold to stay out by the fire, we move inside and watch a DVD or TV (if we get reception) by using the inverter to power a low consumption 20" LCD we mounted on the wall. I use my laptop to hook to the tv if we want to watch a DVD.

I didn't notice the solar panels. That and the generator, inverter, and TV/DVD seem like a sweet setup.

I am starting to get some ideas.

Chap

Originally Posted by Rich_in_Tampa

This thread gives the impression that there are lots of campgrounds that limit trailer size to the 30' range. While I don't doubt they exist (perhaps particularly in the Ca state park system), I can honestly say I have never run into this. 36 feet, yes. 31 feet, never.

Maybe I've just been lucky, but have many run in to 31 length limitations often? Driving down the highway, there aren't many RVs that fall under that limit in my experience.

I would have guessed a 31' restriction (or less) is the exception.

We just got back from a five nights at Sequoia NP. In Azalea campground, any MH longer than 32 feet will need to go off of the pavement in the S turns. In a 40 foot MH you will need the assistance of someone to guide you through the trees in the S turn, even when going forward.

I have stayed at Castle Crags SP in CA. It was built probably in the 40's. Anything much longer than a TM 2720 will not make it into the campsites. When campgrounds were built 60 years ago, not very many people had trailers.

My older brother has 32 foot Montana FW. He can't go where I like to go. I don't like to go where he can go. We only camp together every other year. And that is the only time I ever have hookups. If my TM has shore power, older brother is nearby. It's like camping in a drive in movie. Yuch.

Set me straight about the lenght of a trailmanor. For example, does the length of a 30/23 mean that the trailer length when closed is 23' including the tongue or just the body, and when it's opened is it 30' or less? Thanks.

[B_and_D]

http://trailmanor.com/WebDocs/Showro...ifications.htm

For a 3023, the actual length closed is the "towing length closed" of 22'9", and the overall length open is the "body length open" of 26'5".

They say it's the "equivalent" of a 30' trailer because the ends stick out over the tongue and the bumper when open.

I've measured my 2720 and the factory specs are just about right-on.

Originally Posted by jgeewa

Set me straight about the lenght of a trailmanor. For example, does the length of a 30/23 mean that the trailer length when closed is 23' including the tongue or just the body, and when it's opened is it 30' or less? Thanks.

For the 3023, I think the total length (bumper to coupler) is around 23', with actual floor space ~19'. When you open a TM, each end extends ~3.5' for the total of 7' more (hence all of the model numbers are a 7 difference between the 1st 2 digits and the 2nd 2). But, the front extends over the tongue, and the rear bumper is partially under the rear bed, so the total extended living space is around ~26'. A lot of RV manufacturers use the total lenght of the trailer as their measurements, so TM uses that ~26' plus about 4' of tongue lenght to classify it as a 30 footer, even though the front shell is over the tongue.

Does that make since?? I feel sure that a 3023 owner can get you more precise measurements.

Chap

Oops, it looks like I was posting this while B and D was posting, but it looks like our explanations are the about the same.

I wonder how a fifth wheel would be measured because it is always hanging over the ball.

Yes, length matters. The inside, usable room is important for your comfort. Larger units get larger spaces. Don't tell them it is anything but the open length. No one needs to know it folds up. Towing our 3124KS in not a problem with a Tahoe. We do use a weight distribution system and I would recommend that with any vehicle. As far as backing it in to a space... Well, that just takes practice.

We love our TM and can't think of another camper we would want. It helps keep life simple and light.

I've been wondering about the lenght issue myself. We have a Durango (wheelbase 119") and it worked well with our popup that was about 10 feet long. We are (hopefully) inthe process of buying an '03 3214KB. Mike and Kelly's handbook (link somewhere on this forum) has a table that indicates that the longer the trailer the longer the TV wheelbase should be. I don't quite nderstand the physics here, but he did say that the table related to full size TT. So there might be some reduced considerations for a TM. My Durango has a very sharp turning radius and that has been helpful in backing in many instances. I would think it would be very helpful with a long trailer where there is less forgiveness when back. I'd entertain comments from those of you who are experienced in this area (or just have an opinion ).
Thanks - Alan

[Bill]

A tow vehicle that is short compared to the trailer is a wonderful thing when you are backing up. Just think of an 18-wheeler - they can back those things with pinpoint accuracy, and the short tractor (compared to the long trailer) is what makes it possible. Plus a lot of skill on the driver's part, of course.

On the other hand, think of yourself going down a long downgrade when you encounter a sharp curve. You turn the tow vehicle, and an angle develops between the trailer and the tow vehicle. The trailer tries to go straight ahead, and it pushes the back end of the tow vehicle in that direction. As it pushes the back end of the tow vehicle, the tow vehicle tends to swing around, making the curve tighter, and a jackknife can result. A longer tow vehicle resists that tendency better. There are some rules of thumb, as you discovered, for how long a tow vehicle should be compared to its trailer, and they are good rules, dervied from experience - but they are not magic. Of course, an 18-wheeler does not meet the trailer rules, relying instead on the skill of the driver and the massive dual rear wheels on the tractor, to stay out of jackknife situations. But when situations get out of control, a jackknife is a common result.

Hope this helps.

Bill

Bill - VERY good explanation! Makes very good sense. So basically you have to have a balance based on driving skills, typical driving scenarios (heavy traffic, lots of maountains, how fast you drive, narrow roads, how important tight camping spaces are, etc.)

I tend to drive very conservative, leave lots of room, seldom speed (especially with a trailer!), and my TV (Durango) with a full factory installed tow package includes oversized rotors and pads so it brakes bery well.

I have a friend with a Durango who was towing a 3023 and topped a hill on I-25 in the rain and came up on a backup. He was going to fast (admittedly) for the conditions and slammed into a Land Rover in front of him. Totaled the D, but the TM came out unscathed! (and the Rover as well) Fortunately no jack-knife issues because it was a straight stop.

Just drive friendly (learned that when I lived in Texas!) and you should be ok!

thanks for the input
Alan