Quote:
Originally Posted by Padgett
There are other threads but the 3-way fridge takes 2x to 3x the power of a compressor fridge and is a real power drain, around 180W regardless of voltage. You would be better off from a capacity standpoint running on propane rather than battery
Power from the TV really depends more on the TV wiring to the Bargman & altermator capacity than anything. Mine appears to have a 10 gauge wire on a 30A fuse and a 160A alternator. My experience is that you need at least 140A (under 100A is Not Engough particularly with lights on, 120A is marginal) rated alternator to be able to charge effectively at low engine rpm. (My Interstate cruise is under 2,000 rpm)
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Thanks for the reply. Yes, I only run the refrigerator on DC when traveling.
We both have a Jeep GC although a different year. My Trailer Tow Group IV includes a 220-amp alternator and the schematic shows a 30-amp fuse so I assume we have the same 10-gauge wiring in the TV. I checked the pins on the Bargman with a volt meter and there is power.
The TM schematic shows 12-Gauge wiring to the WF-8955 converter and 10-Gauge wiring to the battery.
In my reading, some other sites indicate that RV trailer wiring is only capable of a few amps and cannot really charge a trailer battery but TM may be different. Any further thoughts would be appreciated on how to determine if the battery is able to get 16 amps to offset running the fan and refrigerator?
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