Light Weight Equalizing Hitch

When I set up the 99 Toyota Siena to pull the 96 TM3023; I bought a single arm Ideal equalizing hitch which weighed 53 lbs. instead of 85 lbs for a 2 arm version which is actually designed for 10,000 pound trailers. It also had a hollow 2 inch square hitch T rather than a solid one. This saved 33 lbs at the rear of the van as well as only one arm to attach. Since the Sienna gross vehicle tow weight is 3500 lbs., and my TM3023 weighed 3250 lbs. that leaves 250 lbs of stuff that should be put inside the trailer while being towed. I keep my tool box, 2 gallon water bottles in the van.

I have a good picture of it and feel that the light weight hitch and hauling with a minivan deserve a small article since good gas milage has become very relavant since gas is about to go above $3.50. My rig gets 18 mpg on the flat expressway. And remember I took the family from Troy, MI to St. Pete, Florida with it. down I-75 thru the mountains from Cincinate to Chatanoga.

[Mr. Adventure]

There's lots of discussion about the weight of the tongue, but we never question the weight of the hitch with our trailering talk. Obviously, the people who desigh hitch receivers and the bolt holes they mount to are figuring in the idea that there's a 100# weight distributing hitch going to be installed there in accordance with their recommendations. But it seems to me that 50 (or even 30) pounds saved right there would be all good news.

I find that I use a fair amount of my 1000# rated Reese in order to get enough weight distribution. I'd guess that every pound saved at the hitch is a pound less that needs to be to distributed.

Good point.

Because I have a large truck, I have no need for a WD hitch, according to the factory.

Clearly a TV that is just barely large enough to tow the TM would need a high capacity WD hitch.

But what about the TVs in between? I have been reading these forums and the forums at another site and I don't recall this topic ever coming up.

It seems rather obvious, now that you mention it, that sometimes some TVs only need a little weight distribution assistance.

I always thought bigger was better with a WDH, but after reading more on how WDHs function, now am not too sure. I have a Reese WDH for a 10,000 lb. trailer max., with a 1000 lb. tongue limit that came with my TM. So the spring bars are right much stiffer than a 5000 lb. unit. Every time I drive over a dip, the sping bars are really putting a lot of force on the TM, and the truck front axle, because they don't bend as readily as a 500 lb. unit. I am now under the idea that the WDH should match closer with the weight of the trailer that you are towing.

Other opinions??

Chap

[Mr. Adventure]

There's no question that the heavier weighted hitches can be stiffer. But I'm not really sure there's a big difference between a 500# rated hitch that's really cranked up and a 1000# hitch that's only halfway.

I've towed with and without WDH's (different times, different trailers). These days I'm thinking that WDH is important in most TM tow vehicles to keep the front wheels loaded for steering and braking purposes even if the mfr's recommendations allow a little wiggle room.

The test for this is real simple, and right from the Reese installation instructions. On a level paved surface, measure from the ground to the fenders above the wheels before and after hitching. Experiment with links on the bars to adjust the hitch to spread the deflection around. I'll add the thought that if the front rises when hitched you absolutely, emphatically, gotta have a WDH to tow safely.

[Bill]

Originally Posted by Mr. Adventure

I'm thinking that WDH is important in most TM tow vehicles to keep the front wheels loaded for steering and braking purposes even if the mfr's recommendations allow a little wiggle room.

The test for this is real simple, and right from the Reese installation instructions. On a level paved surface, measure from the ground to the fenders above the wheels before and after hitching. Experiment with links on the bars to adjust the hitch to spread the deflection around.

From everything I understand, this is exactly right. By spreading the weight around, you add weight to the front wheels. This is important. When you first drop the trailer hitch onto the ball, it actually removes weight the tow vehicle's front wheels, and this is a bad thing. You need to replace the missing weight plus some. When you have added the right amount, the front and rear deflections are the same.

Wayne, at first glance, it sounded to me like you were telling people that it is OK to only partially crank up their WDH, or to install a WDH that is so lightly rated that it can't perform the needed distribution. Either one would result in improper weight distribution (and front end unweighting) as evidenced by deflections that don't match. I don't think that's what you meant, and no one should take it that way.

Just my thoughts ...

Bill

[fcatwo]

I'm with Jan, Pop and Chap on this one. We towed our 2619 for the 1st three yrs with a Honda Odyssey and single-arm 400/4000 WDH and it weighed out with almost identical weight on all three axles (within 20lbs). We went to a 600/6000 Equal-i-zer when we traded TVs but I'm not sure it was necessary. There must be a reason why hitch manufacturers offer hitches from 400 to 1400lbs tongue weight distribution and not one-size-fits-all. Can't be cost because WDHs only increase about $10.00 between sizes and that may just be marketing strategy as the cost of the difference in steel between the sizes is probably minimal.

Sure you can set up a 1,400/14,000 WDH so it levels a trailer with 300lbs of tongue weight when it is sitting level but as Chap said, when you drive through a dip and your TV is going up the far side of the dip while the trailer is still going down the back side that 1,400/14,000 WDH is giving you all it has. Is a few unnecessary hundred lbs of WDH distribution applied to your trailer axle and TV front axle for that few seconds going to hurt anything --- who knows but why subject your rig to such stresses if it isn't necessary? If you could get a WDH strong enough, you could probably lift your TV's rear wheels completely off the ground when crossing the dip and carry all the weight on the two other axles. The extra stress is likely also applied with every bounce on the highway.

There have been a few reports here of TM owners who's dealers sent them out with heavier WDHs because the lighter WDHs they first tried to install wouldn't fit. I haven't read any reports of damage caused by the heavier WDHs but it would be interesting to know what size WDHs the people who have had repeat tire failures are using. We've never had so much as a flat much less blown a tire in 20-30K mi or towing the 2619.

[Mr. Adventure]

I had a hitch receiver once that was actually bent by cranking up the trailer jack too far while hitched (The hitch ball was raised about 1" after the incident -- I upgraded the hitch reciver to a new 500# hitch receiver, of course, and I learned a new respect for the trailer jack in the process) (I've since learned that I'm able to attach the bars without lifting the trailer in the hitched poisition anyhow). This would be one possible issue I would expect if the WDH could be cranked high enough to cause damage. So far, I'm doing fine with my Reese 1000, but I'll post on this forum when I receive any new and personal experience-driven lessons on this topic.

It's not a bad idea to inspect the hitch receiver and all of the attach points periodically for signs of developing adventures.

Thanks for sharing your experience!

[fcatwo]

I've re-read my previous post in the light of day and need to clarify it. I don't mean to imply that a large number of TM owners will be well-served by a 400lb WDH. We were because we traveled very light (2nd and3rd row seats removed from the Odyssey to stay within it's GCWR). Most people will need something heavier. Those who have been here a few years probably recall that RockyMountainRay started with a 550lb WDH on his 2720SL and had to move up to a 750 to get the lift he needed. WDHs are designed to cover a range of tongue weights (say 500-800lbs) and choosing one that covers your needs somewhere in the middle of that range is likely best -- pushing the top of their range may not work because most are cheaply made and do not fall in the "rocket-science" category. IMO getting one that is much bigger than needed is also not wise -- sure you can kill a rabbit with an anti-tank missle but you may not be satisfied with the result if you are a carnivore :-).

Originally Posted by fcatwo

WDHs are designed to cover a range of tongue weights (say 500-800lbs) and choosing one that covers your needs somewhere in the middle of that range is likely best -- pushing the top of their range may not work because most are cheaply made and do not fall in the "rocket-science" category. IMO getting one that is much bigger than needed is also not wise -- sure you can kill a rabbit with an anti-tank missle but you may not be satisfied with the result if you are a carnivore :-).

Agreed.

Chap