Sewer hose storage.

Excellent Idea!
Thanks for sharing.
Jimmy

Thanks cRay60 for the innovative idea and all the others with tweaks and modifications to your original design. That is one thing that makes owning a Trail Manor such a pleasure.

I took your idea and made yet another modification. I made 4" x 3'-0" tool box on one side and a box for rubber gloves on the other side.

Having trouble uploading photos. Will try again later.

[Bailey'sMom]

Originally Posted by gmferg

I did something similar to the OPs install. I decided to mount mine right under the forward torsion bars. There's a large slot in the frame rails where the torsion bars go through. I drilled two 1/4" holes through the bottom of the frame rails so I could run 1/4" bolts through the plastic post and the frame and place nylock nuts on top. There are 4 bolts total, 2 on either end supporting the plastic post. In the pictures you can see where I marked the hole locations on the outer frame rail.

For the cap, I installed an eye-bolt on the end and ran a couple of small bungee cords through it. There are small holes on 2 sides of the post where I slipped the hooks through and bent them over so they can't slip out.

Six 1/2" holes are drilled along the bottom of the post to allow for drainage.

I discovered that Lowes carries the 4.75" x 4.75" post with a 5" x 5" cap which has an insert to take up the extra space. This insert would need to be glued in place. Home Depot carries the 5" x 5" post with a 5" x 5" cap - no insert required. I went with the Home Depot 5 x 5 so I didn't need the insert and it also provides a little more space.

Attachment 4498 Attachment 4499 Attachment 4500

I also purchased the 5" x 5" plus caps from Home Depot. I cut it down to about 78" because I didn't want it sticking out to avoid any possible problems.

I then cut six holes in the bottom, fashioned my cap covers using mini bungee cords and some cup hooks I had on hand which I clamped closed to hold the bungee. Here's where my mod is very different from GMFERG's.

I tried to drill the holes into the steel frame. Didn't have the right drill bits or the strength to do so. So I got thinking....why couldn't I just use zip ties or ratcheting tiedown straps.

So off to the store I went. Bought some 36" 175# capacity indoor/outdoor zip ties for about $4. Also bought some fancy ratcheting tiedowns that hold up to 500#. Those cost $20.

Back home to see if it would work. First lined up the tube and propped it in place. Started with 1 36" zip tie. Cinched it nice and tight against the steel frame. Then I placed a second one, crisscrossing them for added strength. Worked great. THen went to the other side and did the same thing.

Secured it very tight. Decided to add a third zip tie just in case, but opted NOT to use the ratcheting tiedowns. Of course I will keep an eye on these and might need to replace them every year or two, but that was so much easier than drilling thru steel beam.

See attached PDF with pictures.

[jacjim]

instead of using bungee to hold on cap i just drilled 1 hole through top lip of cap and inserted large cotter pin make sure you attach cotter pin to unit so you do not lose it when you remove the endcap

[tentcamper]

Originally Posted by Bailey'sMom

I also purchased the 5" x 5" plus caps from Home Depot. I cut it down to about 78" because I didn't want it sticking out to avoid any possible problems.

I then cut six holes in the bottom, fashioned my cap covers using mini bungee cords and some cup hooks I had on hand which I clamped closed to hold the bungee. Here's where my mod is very different from GMFERG's.

I tried to drill the holes into the steel frame. Didn't have the right drill bits or the strength to do so. So I got thinking....why couldn't I just use zip ties or ratcheting tiedown straps.

So off to the store I went. Bought some 36" 175# capacity indoor/outdoor zip ties for about $4. Also bought some fancy ratcheting tiedowns that hold up to 500#. Those cost $20.

Back home to see if it would work. First lined up the tube and propped it in place. Started with 1 36" zip tie. Cinched it nice and tight against the steel frame. Then I placed a second one, crisscrossing them for added strength. Worked great. THen went to the other side and did the same thing.

Secured it very tight. Decided to add a third zip tie just in case, but opted NOT to use the ratcheting tiedowns. Of course I will keep an eye on these and might need to replace them every year or two, but that was so much easier than drilling thru steel beam.

See attached PDF with pictures.

We have that mod. I drilled 2 - 1/2" holes on each end cap to allow the tube to air out and dry out. Also painted it flat black with plastic paint. I also keep a ziplock bag with disposal gloves between the hose and end cap.

I like the idea of the zip ties. Once in awhile my hose give me issues from interference of the screws.

[commodor47]

I went to Home Depot and bought a 5 x 5 x 8 ft fence post and two end caps. My son helped me secure the fence post under the TM in front of the forward stabilizers jacks (see attached pics). We first located a suitable attachment point along the main frame. Using loosely attached zip ties made that part fairly easy. Once the location was established we drilled a small hole in the upper wall of the fence post. Next we drilled a ½” hole on the opposite wall to allow the insertion of a screw and hex drill driver. He held the screw back just enough for me to reach inside the post and add a large fender washer onto the screw. I then guided the screw/washer assembly into the predrilled hole in the upper wall and the predrilled hole in the bottom of the frame. Once the screws were secured we installed a few additional zip ties for added support. I use a plastic gutter in which to store the sewer hose.

Dick