Moved the hot water switch inside

[dilberttf]

I didn’t like having the switch for the electric water heater function on the outside. So I moved it inside onto the control panel in front of the sink. Here’s some pictures of how I did it, and the links to the switch and mounting plate on Amazon. I used rubber grommets to fill the hole where the old switch came out and tucked the existing leads, and the new extension leads back into that hole for safety and appearance. I ran the two new extension leads through the little rubber grommet hole that has the brown wire in it below and to the left of the old switch location. That hole was not quite big enough for three wires so I drilled it out and put a larger rubber grommet in there. Are used 12 gauge wire, but 14 gauge would be adequate for the 15AMP circuit.

[dilberttf]

Amazon link for the switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B7B7P1WM...roduct_details
Amazon link for the mounting olate: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BGGQ3G9W...roduct_details

You could also use this, but I didn't want to spend the $50 for it: https://www.amazon.com/Sensor-Monito...7XZKK4WZ&psc=1

[Wavery]

I think that the reason the manufacturer put that switch out of the way was to keep it from accidently switched "on" unintentionally.

It's a great idea for some people to move it inside, if they are careful and don't have kids. Even still, you might want to think about using a covered switch, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/DaierTek-125V...lbWF0aWM&psc=1

[Shane826]

Originally Posted by Wavery

I think that the reason the manufacturer put that switch out of the way was to keep it from accidently switched "on" unintentionally.

I don’t know why the switch is outside on the model TM uses but Suburban does have a model (SW6DEL) where both switches are inside. It’s not a cost thing because it only looks to be about $10 more. I asked Suburban if it was possible to upgrade our water heater to work with said switch, they said no because it’s a totally different circuit board. Now I’m wondering if both the board and switch could be swapped out… I might have to go dig for schematics! There was a brief discussion with TM about making this upgrade at such minimal cost difference, I don’t know if it ever happened.

I do have a question about the switch being used, though. Is that a 120VAC switch? It looks like something used for 12VDC. If so, you’re asking for trouble.

[dilberttf]

Its a 110/220 vac switch👍