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Old 10-14-2010, 08:28 AM   #31
brulaz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZekenSpider View Post
As I recall I paid about $15.00 each plus shipping. I can't be sure until I get back out to the storage yard this coming weekend. I think I bought them here:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...FBA15S-WLX.htm

But I'm not sure if they were single contact or dual contact bases.

I'll write again after I check my TM.

Jerry
These work in the mini-spots of our Elkmont:
http://www.ledlight.com/s25-12-smt-l...led-light.aspx
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:44 PM   #32
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Default Correction to wrong information on LED Spot cost and source

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZekenSpider View Post
As I recall I paid about $15.00 each plus shipping. I can't be sure until I get back out to the storage yard this coming weekend. I think I bought them here:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...FBA15S-WLX.htm

But I'm not sure if they were single contact or dual contact bases.

I'll write again after I check my TM.

Jerry
I was way wrong about the down spots. They cost $30.00 ea plus shipping and are three watt LEDs equivalent to 19 watt incandescent. The ones quoted above are 1 watt LEDs. The lamps are single contact and are called 12V MR11 Warm White with BA15S Base.

They are available at:

http://www.buylighting.com/LED-1383-...-warmwhite.htm

I'll post some more info tomorrow after I download some pictures.

Jerry
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2010 TM 3326 loaded for 3 day trip, 4955# GTW, 26 gal. water, 9.5 gal. LP, 530# Tongue Wt., 15" Dual Axle, TST Tire monitor, Hensley Cub Hitch
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Old 10-17-2010, 09:04 PM   #33
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Default More LED information and Test results

Attached are several pictures of comparison tests on the "Down Lights" and the "Dome Lights" in my 3326.

The LED Down Lamp is a 3 watt (3/12 = 0.25 amps) warm white compared with a 19 watt (19/12 = 1.58 amps) incandescent. The Incandescent Down Lamp is a "flood" lamp i.e. a wide but short illumination cone. The LED is a "spot" lamp i.e. narrow but long cone. The illumination level as about the same. The LED is a 12v MR11 1383 elevator lamp.

The Dome Lamp comparison shows the LED on the right side with the incandescent on the left side. When the dome covers are on, the illumination is very similar with slightly less coming from the LED. The LED is an RV 1141, 3.6 watts (3.6/12 = 0.30 amps) with 252 lumens. It is also available in the same configuration with 5 watts (5/12 = 0.42 amps) and 380 lumens.

Jerry
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2010 TM 3326 loaded for 3 day trip, 4955# GTW, 26 gal. water, 9.5 gal. LP, 530# Tongue Wt., 15" Dual Axle, TST Tire monitor, Hensley Cub Hitch
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:57 PM   #34
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I ended up buying some LEDs from Command Electronics, as mentioned previously in this thread, and I wanted to share my experience.

I had ordered the #170-112 LEDs boards -- they each have 30 LEDs, and according to the company, they consume about 0.5A and output about 500 lumens at around 3000K. But the company made an error and shipped me K-0031 boards instead, which they say draw about 0.3A and output 350 lumens, and I installed them before I realized it wasn't exactly what I ordered.

But it actually turned out for the better. The bulbs I had in there were 1141 bulbs, not the 1156 bulbs I had thought, and I presume the 1141's have a lower light output because the LED boards are at least as bright as compared side-by-side, and maybe even a bit brighter. In terms of color, they are indistinguishable, even by someone specifically looking for a difference as I was. And the Link 10 says they only draw 0.2A, which is even better (or perhaps the Link 10 is a little off).

The bulb shields in the lamp fixtures are concave, so I cut a small thin sheet of plastic (nylon, Teflon, something I found in the garage) to use as a flat mounting plate for the LEDs. They slide in the same grooves of the light fixture as the plastic dome covers do. I only wish they came with a bulb base connector instead of a wedge. They include an adapter, which is visible in the pictures, but with a bulb base connector, the wire would have a little more slack.

So far, I am very happy with them and at $19 each + shipping, I have already ordered another pair so we can leave the lights on with abandon. It has dramatically reduced our power consumption requirements in the winter, and has easily added at least another day or two to our battery capacity. Instead of lights being a major power draw, now they are negligible, not even worth considering.

K-0031 specs:
http://www.commandelectronics.com/le...roductInfo.pdf

Purchase page:
http://commandelectronics.com/led-ta...l#ceilinglight

In the first picture below with all 4 lights on, the 2 lights on the left are LEDs.

Now if they only made an LED heater......

Dave
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Old 12-14-2010, 04:53 PM   #35
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Looks almost like the complete assembly I purchased. Nice job.
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Old 12-14-2010, 05:08 PM   #36
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I also bought LED bulbs to replace my 1141 incandescents. They were $12.50 from Amazon. The form factor is identical to the bulbs they replaced. Side by side they are very similar with the LED being a little dimmer BUT plenty bright, nice color too.

http://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Ba1...=pd_sim_auto_1

LED lights are finally becoming much more mainstream, both form factor and price wise when you consider the power savings and longevity they are well worth it IMHO.

See image below
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Old 12-15-2010, 07:53 AM   #37
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Our leds were a significant but not major power draw over the 7 nights we spent at Flamingo, Everglades N.P.

My rough estimates are:
LEDS: 2 A/day
Phantom: 3 A/day (radio, gas monitors, WFCO)
Frig: 6 A/day

Total 11 A/day

The frig estimate is really a guess as I didn't monitor it much at all. It depends upon the time the propane was firing and whether the frig fan came on or not.

We didn't have to use any other fans or any incandescents during our stay.

But the overall 11A/day usage roughly corresponds to the changes in SOC observed: about 8 A/day (which depends upon the Voltage/SOC tables used). Unfortunately we do not have a Clipper or other battery monitor.
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Old 01-24-2011, 09:41 PM   #38
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Default More bulb replacement questions

Thanks everyone for the education and information in this thread.
Two quick questions:
(1) anyone measure the amp draw of the fluorescent fixtures (I have a few of these in my 2008 TM3023) ? I'm assuming these don't need any upgrade to prepare for unplugged camping....
(2) my camper has four patio lights (C912 bulb with wedge base)....anyone try to install those LED panel-style lights? Or found anything else that fits?
Thanks,
John
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Old 01-24-2011, 10:07 PM   #39
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John,

According to this thread, which also lists the loads of all the appliances, the fluorescent light draws about 2.1A.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=7876

Dave
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Old 01-24-2011, 10:16 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasCamper View Post
Thanks everyone for the education and information in this thread.
Two quick questions:
(1) anyone measure the amp draw of the fluorescent fixtures (I have a few of these in my 2008 TM3023) ? I'm assuming these don't need any upgrade to prepare for unplugged camping....
(2) my camper has four patio lights (C912 bulb with wedge base)....anyone try to install those LED panel-style lights? Or found anything else that fits?
Thanks,
John
I just looked at my battery monitor in the RV, had it uplugged from AC power and turned on one LED bulb which showed a draw between 0.1 to 0.2 AMPS, then I turned on one fluoreescent it showed 1.6 AMPS and turned on a second one it showed 3.1 AMPS. So it seems the shorter ones in the 2619 above the stove and sink are about 1.5 AMPs. I think the one in the bathroom is longer, I didn't test it.

LED lights draw very little power, next to nothing. I use these in my 2519 they draw about 0.1 to 0.2 amps:
http://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Bay...5932301&sr=8-1

I know other folks use brighter LED replacement lights, they really are the way to go for dry camping IMHO.
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