Hot brake - why? - Page 2

08-02-2014, 11:53 PM

Well WingedRyder, I hope you've found your solution. My cool drum turned out to be an electrical issue. I found a 3 wire connection that is supposed to bring power from the driver's side drum of the trailer to the passenger side drum. One of the wires had slipped enough from the twist wire nut to apparently weaken the circuit. Once I realigned the wires I could tell I had a complete circuit because a buzzing sound now came from the drum when my wife applied the brake in the Tundra while parked in the driveway (before only a faint click could be heard). Braking power was much improved in the test drive although still not enough to lock up the wheels. The heat from each drum was now pretty evenly matched. Also, both hubs were only warm indicating the bearings were set properly. I kind of got lucky and figured this out without a voltmeter.
Maybe you have a weak circuit on your driver's side drum -- limiting braking power and forcing the passenger side drum to do all of the work. Maybe everyone who has tested the circuit has noted voltage on the driver's side without being able to note insufficiency under heavier braking. ??? Oh, I also added 4 downward clicks on the starwheel snugging the shoes to the drum on the cool side (they seemed to have lost some of my preset). Anyway, can you tell I'm fishing for your solution?
We're headed to Ouray, CO in a few weeks and I'm thankful I won't have to foot drag to slow our rig. Best of Luck to you. Drive by my house in Goodyear & I'll crawl under your rig too.

Wingedryder · 08-04-2014, 07:57 PM

I think 'Goodyear Travels' hit on it - not actually an overheating problem of one brake over the other, but the other not actuating properly (due to an electrical short in the wiring from one brake to the other). As the brakes are wired in series rather than parallel, a short in the wire from one side to the other can cause one to work properly and one not. All good info I'm going to pass along to my dealer and see if they can isolate the problem once and for all.

BTW, I'd ck'd the break-away as mentioned, and all was operational; as was the orientation of the shoes. I also properly adjusted ea. TM brake, as have the dealer and my hitch shop afterwards - none having a direct bearing.

In contrast, I've see much divergent opinion on brake controller settings - again I've tried 'em all (and I don't agree that the TV should be doing most all of the braking of the trailer, rather, depending on the wt. of TV and trailer, they should be more even or at least proportional).

Thanks again for all who posted possible solutions to my brake problems, I'll keep posted on my progress!

WingedRyder in Colorado

**Bill** · 08-05-2014, 08:52 AM

The brakes should not be wired in series! They must be wired in parallel. You can confirm by visiting the Dexter web site, or by checking the Brakes section in your blue book.

Bill

Wingedryder · 08-15-2014, 12:02 AM

Mister P -
Yes, a whole summer of frustration due to the brakes on this brand new TM! Do I wonder what I've gotten myself into? You bettcha! But, brakes don't involve rocket science.

The dealer has it again, and I'm trusting they'll discover why one side isn't working and get me up and running safely, once and for all. I believe it has to be an electrical problem - a short in the wiring, a bad connector, poor grounding, or a mal-functioning magnet. Bargman & breakaway function properly.

As one other recently posted here with an identical problem, I believe it was a wire that had rubbed bare.

Once again, thanks to all for possible causes!
WingedRyder

08-21-2014, 08:49 PM

Good luck and trust u will get it resolved. Hate to see someone with this type of hassle. U will enjoy once u get all the bugs out I'm sure.

08-22-2014, 07:40 AM

I would focus on an open, defective brake or mis-adjustment. Being wired in parallel, if there was a short in one, neither would work.

Wingedryder · 09-17-2014, 09:57 PM

Well, our brake mystery finally seems to be solved. Another trip to the dealer for a several week stay appears to have alleviated the braking problems on our new, though now 11 month old, 2720 TM. Apparently a combination of faults preventing the brakes on the street side from activating fully. Dealer started by re-wiring from plug to each brake, then replaced magnets, then shoes, backing plates, et al in an effort to get both sides to work in unison, and w/o overheating on the curb side.

Oh, and the dealer was kind enough to replace the fender skirts the factory had, for whatever reason, both screw AND glue on, making them impossible to remove w/o destroying! (?)

What a relief! Now maybe we can get in the trips next year we'd planned this first year. Could be the factory could stand to improve some on the Quality Control. Just sayin'.

Thx again to all who offered possible remedies.

WingedRyder

TrailManorMan · 09-18-2014, 06:54 AM

Good luck in your future travels,

Wingedryder · 10-06-2014, 11:09 PM

Again, thanks to all who helped try to diagnose my 2013's brake problems.

A lengthy stay back at the dealer in which they completely re-wired from bargman to ea. wheel, replacing magnets & both brake assemblies seems to have done the trick (brakes on one side had not been actuating since purchasing one year ago, causing other side to over-heat)! Will never really know what was most at fault.

After picking up the TM one of the hub's dust caps spun off, crushing inside the decorative wheel's center cap. Was able to re-shape and re-seat properly over the star nut. Now to locate a replacement black plastic center cap for the decorative "mag" wheel that was shattered.

Oh yes, and my new electric tongue jack (formerly working) seems to have been rendered useless (wobbly w/parts falling out(?). Will try to grind the under-sized hole in the TM's frame (tongue area) to accept the 2 &1/4" sleeve of the new heavy-duty jack just purchased. Is there anything "standard" on these TM's???
Am certainly ready to "enjoy" this new camper if luck will allow!

Redtail Cruiser · 10-07-2014, 07:13 AM

Wingedryder, when I installed my electric tongue jack, I bought a 2 1/4 inch holesaw, then drilled a hole with it in a scrap piece of plywood. I then secured the wood with the hole centered over the tongue jack hole and drilled new hole. This is much faster and more accurate than grinding out the old hole.