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Old 02-28-2009, 11:09 PM   #11
markandanne
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We rented a class-A a couple of years ago to drive back East to visit relatives over Christmas. It was nice and sunny in CO when we left. That was the year the Front Range started getting 2 feet of snow every other week from Christmas until Feb, and it started while we were in Maryland. We watched it in the news from MD, thinking it would all be melted by the time we got back to CO. Two weeks later when we began driving back across the country, we began a race with the next round of snow, which we lost in Kansas. We camped 3 days in western Kansas waiting for the roads to open, over New Year's Eve (we had some bubbly in the class-A so we were prepared!).

When the roads opened back up, we began the slow crawl across the state line and through CO. We saw a *bunch* of trailers in the ditch, off the road, jack-knifed and having flipped the TV. They were only challenged by the number of SUV's we saw in the ditch as well. The class-A was reasonably controllable the whole way back. We had to thank our neighbor for blowing our driveway clear of the 4' of snow that was in our yard.

Anyway, this really opened my eyes as to just how uncontrollable a trailer is when it gets slick (along with how stupid SUV drivers can be). I know that the theory is to have chains on the trailer so that it acts like a sea anchor, but I'm unconvinced that it will actually work. The problem is that they have such poor forecasting ability here in CO, and it's easy for these things to sneak up on you.

So I'm halfway between your plans of just extending your stay until it's safe (which is how I've been dealing with it up until now) and the "be prepared" motto, and I'm unsure which is the better plan.

And yes, a ton of work re-attaching everything inside will be required after a trip like that I'm sure.

Mark
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Old 03-01-2009, 01:12 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by markandanne View Post
I know that the theory is to have chains on the trailer so that it acts like a sea anchor, but I'm unconvinced that it will actually work.
I think the answer to that lies in the number of 18-wheelers you see ditched with chains on the wheels. We had chains on our Jeep, are experienced snow drivers, and we helplessly slid down the road -- and we didn't have a trailer at all.

And putting chains on the TM? What a hassle! You have to set up the TM, unscrew the wheel covers, chain up, screw the wheel covers back on, and close up the TM. Probably 30-45 minutes if you are good. And to avoid totally killing the TM, you need to remove the chains when you come upon bare pavement. There's another 30-45 min. Back on crappy roads? Put 'em back on again, 30-45 min. Ugh.

But even if you are in complete control of your vehicle, that's only part of the problem. What about everyone else who is not as prudent as yourself?

Certainly you can make this same argument if you are not towing a trailer. When towing a trailer, you can't stop as fast, speed up as fast, or maneuver as fast, regardless of whether or not it's a sunny day and the roads are dry, or the roads are crappy and you have chains. The odds for disaster are just way higher in the latter situation, and that's above my personal threshold. And since I won't have chains for the TM, I won't have to convince myself to stay put. I'll be sitting in my TM camped in a strip mall parking lot, rest area, or side street drinking a nice adult beverage wishing luck to everyone who decided to fight the roads.
Of course, another option if you're reasonably close to home and you feel comfortable driving without the TM: park the TM somewhere, and go home. Then just pick the TM up the next weekend.

Dave
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Old 03-01-2009, 01:02 PM   #13
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To answer Bill's question (regarding why I want a lift at all), I have a couple of reasons. One is that I do tow just a bit nose-high which scrapes my rear stabilizer jacks occasionally (and every time when I go into the driveway). With the Expedition, using weight bearing hitches, I would need a draw bar that has a ball mount that is in the center of the receiver, which I cannot find. If I flip the draw bar then I'm nose low by more than I'm currently nose high, and I still have the problem.
A 1' or 2" high rise ball and a 2" drop/3/4" rise ball mount will allow you to level the tow.

http://www.trailerandtruckparts.com/...lls_c_100.html

Mike
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Old 03-01-2009, 04:59 PM   #14
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Mark -

After re-reading my post, I want to be sure it is clear that I wasn't questioning your motive or your need for a lift. I just thought that if we knew why you wanted it, we might be able to help a bit more with the choice of 2.5 or 5 inches, which was the question you asked.

As for chains, I'm nervous. Especially if you mean real chains. You have to consider not only the clearance at the top of the tire, but the clearace on the back side of the tire as well. As I recall, there is much less side clearance (way under an inch) than there is top clearance (should approach 3 inches).

I have read about cables that slip over the tire, fit more snugly and have a much lower profile than real chains. No experience with them, however.

With an Expedition, you probably don't need a WDH, so no problem there. And a 2.5 inch lift (like mine) should get the rear end off the driveway. Those jacks get to be expensive if one catches on something and it bends. I've done it. So go for it! Sounds like you've got a decision.

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Old 03-02-2009, 02:58 PM   #15
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DW and I installed the 2.5 inch lift kit one day out in the back yard. It was not that bad. The main reason was to get a little extra ground clearance just in case and to make changing the tires a little easier. It has been adequate for our needs. We mostly camp at state parks and some boon-docking via well graveled Forest Service roads.
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Old 03-13-2009, 11:25 AM   #16
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Default Snowing and towing

When the road has snow or ice on it and you hit the brakes, the trailer brakes will tend to lock and the trailer will swing out of control to one side or the other. If you crank the controller way down for safety, you're now stopping the whole vehicle with just the TV brakes, and a whole bunch of stopping distance is required. Chains could help some, but unless you put them on all 6 wheels, you've got an axle (or two) that doesn't know how to stop like the others.

None of this is worth it. If you're caught in the snow and you can't stay where you are, leave the trailer and go back for it in better weather.
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Old 06-03-2009, 05:37 PM   #17
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I have an unmodified Tundra 4wd offroad with access cab. I added the 2.5" lift kit and it's perfect for my truck.
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