Adjusting shell height via screws at the bottom of white support arms

[HoMiPa]

Originally Posted by gonzo628

You might want to check the lag bolts near the door (underside of the trailer). When I took my TM to Custom RV, one of the things they did was to remove my lag bolts and insert longer ones. This is a common repair for them and was done because they noticed that my door did not set up right. Prior to their having fixed it, I used to have to do the same (re: lifting the upper shell to get the lower portion of the door in place to set up).

Hmmm, now there's a thought. I will definitely check those out, but it's obvious that both shells need to be leveled out, side to side, anyway, so I'll start there.

I just got back from shopping (ugh), so need to close up the TM and move it. I always dread moving it from my barn road to my driveway - it's a tricky move onto the very narrow dirt road, from the very, very narrow road to my barn, with only a short culvert at the end of the barn road, with a deep ditch on each side. Then back down the road about 400', and the "S" turn, uphill, into my driveway. I'm always worried I've lost all my backing skills over the winter. But, as always, I got it up there, where I want it, on the first try. Bummed I have to move it, but it is on the edge of an embankment, with the street side on a jack, tire 6" off the ground, to make the TM level. In the attached photo I took the other day when I moved it to my driveway, you can see how unlevel the front upper shell is, by looking at the front bed base. I'll close her up now, move her over centered on the drive in front of the garage, open her up, and see what I can do about it all.

[popeye]

I have a Ford extended van backing is mirrors only.
Years ago I put a reciver up front for setting tar kettles.
It puts my steering right at the tounge, and gives a panoramic view.
If possible on your Bronco. Would tame that long driveway.

Never posted before,hope it works.

[HoMiPa]

Woo Hoo! According to the time stamps on my camera, it took an hour and a half to make all the adjustments, and a couple of the arms I adjusted twice!

For anyone who attempts this - a couple of pointers:

The bolts on my TM's white support arms are 9/16th. A socket works fine for the farthest forward, and the farthest rear arms, but you will need a wrench for the support arms in the middle of the trailer.

Although it only took me an hour and a half, I probably could have been done in half the time if there was someone helping me. Holding the 2x4 vertical, while trying to turn the jack up, was fairly difficult. Had my arms been about a foot longer, it wouldn't have been as bad....

The bolts loosened relatively easy. I've had a harder time breaking lug nuts. The fact that they weren't as hard to break as I thought they would be, tells me that perhaps this is why the shells were so out of level.

She's level now, and I can easily seat the two sides of the bottom half of the door, which was virtually impossible before. The more I learn about the weird little things with TM, the more impressed I am with it's design.

The photos below are in the following order:

1. Before I started the adjustment. Notice how the left side (curb side) of the bed isn't even visible, yet the right side (street side) hangs below the bottom of the shell by about an inch and a half to two inches.

2. Jack & 2.4 in place to begin procedure.

3. Left side (curb side) has been adjusted. I raised the jack so that the 2x4 was snug on the bottom of the upper shell. I then loosened the four bolts at the bottom of the support arms. I then raised the jack about a quarter to half an inch. Using a small mallat, I tapped down on the torsion bar, then tightened the bolts. I repeated this on the other curb side front upper shell support arm.

4. Right side (street side) has been adjusted. On this side, after putting the 2x4 in place to support the bottom of the upper shell, loosening the nuts, lowering the jack about a quarter to half an inch, I then tapped on the bottom side of the torsion bar, to drive it up further into the support arm, then tightened up the bolts.

5. Another view of the front edge of the trailer, showing better how the bed now shows an equal amount under the shell on both sides.

[HoMiPa]

Originally Posted by popeye

Years ago I put a reciver up front for setting tar kettles.
It puts my steering right at the tounge, and gives a panoramic view.
If possible on your Bronco. Would tame that long driveway.

Funny you mention this! When I was talking to my mechanic on Wednesday evening, to book the TM in for the other new tire, brake check, and for him to grease the wheel bearing, I asked him where he wanted me to drop the trailer. He told me to just stick it anywhere, and when I said it's 23' long, he said no problem, they have a mount on the bucket of their tractor, so they can put a receiver hitch in, and he said they can maneuver trailers all over the place with that thing. Same principle, I'm guessing. I might have to look into that.... Thanks!

[pmhellings]

Originally Posted by HoMiPa

Woo Hoo! According to the time stamps on my camera, it took an hour and a half to make all the adjustments, and a couple of the arms I adjusted twice!

For anyone who attempts this - a couple of pointers:

The bolts on my TM's white support arms are 9/16th. A socket works fine for the farthest forward, and the farthest rear arms, but you will need a wrench for the support arms in the middle of the trailer.

Although it only took me an hour and a half, I probably could have been done in half the time if there was someone helping me. Holding the 2x4 vertical, while trying to turn the jack up, was fairly difficult. Had my arms been about a foot longer, it wouldn't have been as bad....

The bolts loosened relatively easy. I've had a harder time breaking lug nuts. The fact that they weren't as hard to break as I thought they would be, tells me that perhaps this is why the shells were so out of level.

She's level now, and I can easily seat the two sides of the bottom half of the door, which was virtually impossible before. The more I learn about the weird little things with TM, the more impressed I am with it's design.

The photos below are in the following order:

1. Before I started the adjustment. Notice how the left side (curb side) of the bed isn't even visible, yet the right side (street side) hangs below the bottom of the shell by about an inch and a half to two inches.

2. Jack & 2.4 in place to begin procedure.

3. Left side (curb side) has been adjusted. I raised the jack so that the 2x4 was snug on the bottom of the upper shell. I then loosened the four bolts at the bottom of the support arms. I then raised the jack about a quarter to half an inch. Using a small mallat, I tapped down on the torsion bar, then tightened the bolts. I repeated this on the other curb side front upper shell support arm.

4. Right side (street side) has been adjusted. On this side, after putting the 2x4 in place to support the bottom of the upper shell, loosening the nuts, lowering the jack about a quarter to half an inch, I then tapped on the bottom side of the torsion bar, to drive it up further into the support arm, then tightened up the bolts.

5. Another view of the front edge of the trailer, showing better how the bed now shows an equal amount under the shell on both sides.

On my 4 Day inaugural "Shakedown" trip, I noticed that my bed wasn't even with the rear shell. It's on my list to correct. Thanks to you, I have the technique. I probably caused the problem myself since I put all new bolts in the torsion bar / lifting arm connections shortly after I bought the camper. The factory ones were extremely rusty. I changed them one bolt at a time but waited until all 4 were in on each arm to torque them.

Paul

[HoMiPa]

Originally Posted by pmhellings

On my 4 Day inaugural "Shakedown" trip, I noticed that my bed wasn't even with the rear shell. It's on my list to correct. Thanks to you, I have the technique.

Paul

Glad it will help - that's what we're all here for! You would have found it eventually, using the search function here, because that's how I found commodor47's original post on this, when I was trying to figure out my issue with securing the bottom half of the door. If your beds look out of whack compared to the bottom of the shells, you will eventually have trouble with the bottom half of your door.

[Larryjb]

I know this issue has been solved, but I just came across this thread from 2008. I have "bookmarked" it by saving it to one of my subscriptions. I remember reading it a few months ago but had forgotten about it, hence my mistaken reference to adjusting the pocket stops. It may prove helpful to others if they are browsing this thread.

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ead.php?t=8160

[Larryjb]

See also, especially post #2

http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...ion#post104814

Post #49
http://www.trailmanorowners.com/foru...torsion&page=5

[HoMiPa]

For anyone that was wondering, I closed up my TM last night, for the first time since leveling the shells. I was worried that adjustments I made might hinder closing.

I was absolutely amazed at how easily it closes, and opens, now! I actually lifted and closed the back shell 3 times, because I just couldn't believe how easy it was! I have struggled with opening both shells for awhile - I had been attributing it to me just getting older, and not as strong as I used to be. I used to have to brace my foot against the tongue, or the bumper, to get from quarter open to half open. I can now literally lift the back shell with one hand, and once past the 3/4 open mark, it pretty much opens itself, like one of those self-closing drawers.

Closing, to latch, I used to have to get a ladder, and really 'jump' on the foot hold, several times - like rocking it - to finally get it to go far enough down to latch. Now, I just put my foot in the foot hold, and press down, while standing on the ground. No jumping, no ladder, no trying to press down on the roof. It actually latches easier than it ever has, even when brand new.

Until I got to the curb side front - the last latch. I tried everything, but couldn't get it to go far enough down to latch. I even unlatched the street side, and tried latching the curb side first. It seems to be a bit too far back. On my own it's hard to tell, because you can't see the latch while trying to close it. But it appears that the latch point is coming down to the rear of the actual latch (which faces forward). I hauled it down to my mechanic with the front shell, curb side not latched. It's only about 5 miles, of course all down hill, so no telling how much water, leaves & debris are now on the front bed.... it was raining. When I pick it up tonight, I'm going to try to adjust the pocket bolt on that front curbside corner. I'm hoping that will do the trick, without messing up how really well the TM opens and closes now.

[Shane826]

I don't think the pocket stop bolt will affect closing because when closed that bolt isn't touching anything, if I'm picturing it correctly in my mind.

You're having trouble closing the same area that you as way out of adjustment, right? Curb side of the front shell was too low so you raised it up? That would effectively push the front shell BACK when in the down position. Is the catch on the shell lining up with the latch on the bottom box? If they are lined up and you just can't get the shell to go down far enough, you want to adjust the torsion bars. If that bar has too much tension on it, it will be a bear to close. Keep in mind the adjusters are on the opposite side of the lift arm (street side adjuster will adjust tension on curb side lift arm and vice versa).