Electric Tongue Jack

[RockyMtnRay]

[quote author=Bill link=board=1;threadid=1598;start=msg11332#msg11332 date=1073957409]
Gregg -

You might consider buying a breakaway switch (just like the one already on the TM), mounting it on the upper jack stem, and wiring it in series with the jack. Most of the time, you keep the pin pushed in (which opens the switch, and keeps power away from the jack). When you need to run the jack, pull the pin out of the housing - it is captive and hangs on a lanyard, so you won't lose it - and push it back in again when you are done. Most "meddlers" won't know what the device is.

Bill
[/quote]
Bill...
That is an absolutely outstanding idea!!! In the back of my mind has been the same concern that Gregg has had...how to prevent the dinkers from dinking with my hitch while I'm away from my trailer...in a campground or even while parked enroute. And the wonderful thing about using a breakaway switch is its use is counter-intuitive: the pin has to be pulled (rather than inserted) before it will function.

Did a quick Google and found that Tekonsha makes a couple of these...the one that's similar to the switch that TM installs is their model 2010 (they also have a slightly larger model 2009). The same Google turned up both models as being available through 4TrailerParts.com...here's their page for the 2010 (priced at a most reasonable $9.43): http://www.4trailerparts.com/html/pr...asp?SKU=FT1158. I'll be installing one of these in my electric hitch wiring before spring.

[Frenchy]

You guys (and gals) are great. Now I have to order one of those switches too.

Thank you Ray and Bill!
I was thinking of using a toggle switch, but this is a better idea!

Ray - Thanks for looking it up!

Gregg

[RockyMtnRay]

[quote author=2619PDX link=board=1;threadid=1598;start=msg11350#msg11350 date=1074019515]
Thank you Ray and Bill!
I was thinking of using a toggle switch, but this is a better idea!

Ray - Thanks for looking it up!

Gregg
[/quote]
Most welcome, Gregg. Did a bit more research today, though, and found that 4TrailerParts.com was no longer taking new orders (web site was up for sale). However there are other eTailers that sell these switches...a Google on "Tekonsha 2010" turned up several such as this RV/Trailer parts dealer: http://www.ghtrailers.com/id22.html. I have no idea if this biz is legit or not so some due diligance would be in order (e.g. a check with the Better Business Bureau on line (http://www.bbbonline.org)) or one of the eTailer rating services (e.g. BizRate.com)).

[mjlaupp]

Guys,
I found this online source for a breakaway switch:
http://www.hidden-hitches.com/brake_away_kits.htm
Part # 79705 Replacement Battery Switch $9.25.
and this one:
http://www.reese-hitches.com/break_away_kit.htm
Part # R74854 Break Away Switch $10.05
For all of your hitch needs:
http://www.1-stop-guide.com/index.html
HTH
MJL

[rtcassel]

[quote author=Hal link=board=1;threadid=1598;start=msg11279#msg11279 date=1073424573]
Another thing, by changing to a power jack, you will be giving up a tongue dolly. The power lifts come with a flat plate and have eliminated the wheel. I tried replacing the flat plate with a wheel. It was unusable because it raised the trailer tongue too high to be lowered onto the ball hitch on my tow vehicle.
[/quote]
I would like to install an electric tongue jack, but need to have the tongue dolly wheel option in order to push the TM into the garage with the tongue going in first. When you replaced the flat plate with a wheel, did you end up with a stable situation that would tolerate the trailer being pushed? Is changing the flat plate to the wheel as easy a job as it is to take off and put the wheel on a manual jack? Thanks. Tim

Tim,
I understand your need for a tongue wheel or dolly. Replacing the plate with a dolly is an easy task. Both the plate and the dolly are attached in the same manner. You should be sure that the dolly fitting is the same size as the power lift shaft. It takes only a matter fo seconds to exchange one with the other.

But, with the tongue attached to my car’s hitch, the distance from the ground up to the hitch was not enough for me to attach the dolly in place of the plate. I guess that one could raise the tongue enough to remove the plate and slip the dolly on. To do so, you could place a support under the tongue so that the jack and plate were hanging. Then remove the plate, insert the dolly, crank the jack up so that the weight is removed from the block supporting the tongue, and remove the blocks. Now you should be able to push your trailer around. When you were to re-attach your trailer to your car hitch, it would be necessary to reverse this procedure. This seems to be a lot of trouble.

We purchased a tongue dolly to move our trailer. It has two (10”?) pneumatic tires and a long handle that resembles a push lawn mower. They were available at Camping World recently for about $160.00. Be sure to get one that is designed for the weight of your tongue. Harbor freight has a couple models. We purchased ours from Harbor Freight (www.harborfreight.com) for $50.00. They are identical. Recently the size we bought was still available for $50.00.


Further explanation. We felt the need to have this dolly because we were going to rent a garage to store the trailer. This idea fell through and we now store ours under a carport next to our garage. Because of the steep ramp leading to the carport, we weren’t able to use the dolly. So, we did something that work like a miracle. We installed a hitche on the front of our tow vehicle. While sitting in the driver’s seat, I can control the trailer to the inch while putting it away or getting it out. Now instead of a lot of shouting and hand waving, we can put it away in about ten minutes as compared with the hour and a half it used to take. It is so pleasant and fun to do it this way. But my wife still won’t humor me and allow me to tuck it in again and again just for the fun of it.

Hal

[jbeletti]

Did anyone follow-through on installing a break-away switch in the electric tongue jack circuit?

I am about to purchase the Hi-Power Jack (now $215.10 at CW) and I too (like others in this thread) am concerned about 2 issues:

1. Forgetting to unplug shore power prior to using the jack and
2. Having people 'mess with' my electric jack while it is stored outside in the yard of a friend

I have already installed a battery disconnect switch on top of my battery case and a couple of methods are on my mind for wiring the electric jack:

A. I could replace my existing (SPST) battery switch with a 4-way battery selector switch so it switches the battery to "either" the tongue jack or the trailer, to both (if disonnected from shore power) of OFF. Easy to do. This method would solve issue '1' above but would still allow a person to rotate the switch to power the jack and 'mess with' it.

B. Use method 'A' and add the break-away switch (discussed in this thread) to the jack circuit.

Questions I have are:
1. Does method 'B' seem viable?
2. Are the break-away switches rated high enough for the current draw expected from the 3000# Hi-Power jack (I need to raise the TV for hitch bar assistance)?
3. Any alternative ideas?

Thanks much,

Jim

[Caver]

I would be a little surprised if the newer TMs that use the 7345 converter would have a problem with the electric jack current when plugged into shore power.

http://www.parallaxpower.com/

The switchmode model is probably current limited and the rating is now 45 amps.
I have found the Parallax tech support very helpful. I'll try to contact them this week.

I would like to install one of the electric jacks so I appreciate the information.

I am also concerned with inadvertent operation of the jack.

Ray

[jbeletti]

Ray,

My 2004 3023 built in December of 2003 used the older converter. If you get this prior to calling Parallax, please inquire about the older (6300?) models as well.

Thanks,

Jim